What is this little curly spring in the lower right corner? I don't have one. What's it's purpose? When reading about or asked if I'm using the spring, I assumed the spring on the end of the needle was the subject. In the video Hilly gave me the link for, they say this : "il bet low is correct
9 of 10 leaking bendix is due to incorrect helper spring install.
one end of srring goes under the float tab (on opposite face of needle heel contact)

The one in the bottom right of that picture is the varmint in question and the one I ment, sorry I should have been clearer, it stops the needle from sticking shut.

Ha! Thanks Hilly. Pity you are so far away. You have all the right info.

I'm learning just the same as you Merv, the only thing I knew before was there is a 3/16 drill bit method to set the float and don't mess the float spring up, I'd never actually done either but now I reckon I could 😁

Hilly, that's a good link you have given to me. Some conflicting advice tho in the little section you mentioned about spring action. Of the 3 small videos, the first shows the spring action pushing the float away from the carby body (down), and the third shows it pushing the float towards the carby body (up). There's enough info there to explain the correct method of fitment tho. But I'm wondering why the spring is needed at all? It appears the correct installation would assist with the lift of the float to shut of the fuel supply. Does this mean the design has a float that's too small and not able to lift it unassisted when the fuel level is set correctly? I need to do more study. Reading it again, it claims the function is the opposite, so I guess I need to get my hands on an actual spring to study it closer. But with one end resting on the top of the float (under tang), and the other end bent downwards to rest against the side of the bowl, logic tells me the end under the tang would want to lift the tang. If the free end was rotated to rest against the top of the carby, I can understand the float end pressing down. I will re-read it a few more times.

They worded that bit to cover the common misconceptions I think Merv, it is supposed to push the float away thus opening the valve, that is assuming the little clip on the valve is attached to the float properly so the float dropping pulls the valve open.

What I can't understand is, it says the inwards pointing end of the spring sits on the 'top' of the float (white RH arrow in pic). So if I put upwards pressure on the other end to tuck it against the bowl wall (red arrow up), isn't the other end going to want to head towards the top of the carby? (blue down arrow). What am I missing here?

Yeah it is difficult to picture like that, the vid 37 shows how it should perform with the spring in properly even though it is leaning on the gasket there, it's still installed right though as you are supposed to lift it up when fitting the bowl so the end of the spring rests on the inside of the bowl, vid 38 is just to prove that the float can overcome the spring force to close the valve needle when the chamber is full of fuel, vid 39 shows the spring incorrectly installed but the carburettor worked anyway, I assume that means the valve never got stuck shut and caused a problem, the wording isn't great but that's my take on it, without it in my hands that's the best I can make of it, you don't have a spring you said? Reading some of the stuff there it seems some reckon it's not needed and chuck it, probably where yours went.

Found this on eBay, looking at the winding on it I can picture it working as explained, what do you think?

Maybe in this perspective it will make sense 

Look at the top center pic of the float on the inverted carby body. That bit of spring is quite clear. Now if, as you lower the bowl over the float, you were to lift that bit of spring so it rests on the wall of the bowl, there is no way on mother earth that the other end of the spring won't want to go in the opposite direction. That is, down. What am I missing here?

I think, only think mind you that small end hits the upright of the float tab pushing back on it and if you take where the pin pivot is that would create a downward force on the float, you might be right Merv, you have a bugga to look at, I'm just trying to interpret what is written and pictured, maybe they have it all messed up?

The spring is still in that carb you got off eBay, maybe it will become obvious when you get to look at it? Hope so anyway lol

I think the penny may have finally dropped looking at this illustration. Only one showing the actual location of the small end of the spring, but it's where you said it should be. I will use this spring, as the fuel level when set up with the 3/16 drill method, will be different with V without it. Thanks for staying with me mate.

You are past my Bendix know how, I will be following along in learning mode 😁

Yes, I have read it extensively since earlier postings and it is a mine of info. It gives a chart of jet sizes starting from #18 on, and back counting gives me a #14 size of .0276. But when I just run that by ChatGPT, it tells me that range of main jet sizes uses a metric numbering system, whereas the accelerating jet uses an inch based system, and #14 there is .014". Don't know how I existed without ChatGPT. I will get my micro drill bits out tomorrow and see what fits in the jet easily. I enjoy the chase. Will let you know.

One thing I did see was that there is an oring around the main jet that can/does perish and fuel can then get past making the mixture rich, maybe that could be part of your sooty plugs scenario if you haven't been there yet?

Yes, new O ring in place.