I have a Dyna that I had the stage 2 SE BBK put in.When I went to have it dynoed the dyno operator said it seemed to be running somewhat poorly.He suggested that I check the cam timing and also the oil pump Oring to make sure it didn't get cut and is maybe wet sumping a bit.So I want to check the cam timing myself and was wondering could I check it without taking out the pushrods which are oem and not adjustable one.I thought if I would bring the rear cyclinder up on TDC I could check the cam timing but will I be able to get the oil pump off to change the Oring or will I have to take out the pushrods? Thanks

OK  That is what I thought.I read thru those posts and want to drain my sump to see how much oil is in there.I'm wondering just exactly where the sump plug would be at?Thanks

I had an indy do the BBK. I didn't think it got too hot or ran too bad really.The dyno operater stated he felt like the engine dragged down low but he could get it freed up by reving the motor which I guess meant he could overcome the drag with enough revs.Another thing I have Vance and Hines Short Shots on my Dyna which he felt was contributing to my lack of power which was 54hp tq in the 80s.He said he wouldn't even waste my money on the tune and to come back after changing the pipe to a V&H pro pipe and if that didn't help check the cam timing and oil sumping issues.I want to check the issues while waiting for the pipes.He did state he had seen a 20hp gain from a pipe change before but I have my doubts that is going to work that well.I have since read that the Short shot style of pipes can stuff an intake charge and cause poor performance but this is my first experance with it.Thanks

So,I'm not the only one that thinks that its improbable to pick up that much HP with a pipe.That's why I want to check the cam timing and wet sumping.I may just get the SE adj. pushrods and go through the whole thing.I was trying to save some coins.

Its an 88 to 95 BBK on a 05FXDI .It has SE203 cams .Using a Dynojet 250i dynometer

Well,I accessed the cam compartment today.I couldn't remove the timing chain due it having spring loaded tensioner not one like in the write up by Scotty.While I have my oil pump locating screws and cam and crank holding tool from georges garage,they are out of stock til the end of the month on the spring tension unloader and holding pin kit.So I have a couple questions about some things I'm seeing or not seeing actually.

 1.When I have the rear cylinder on TDC The cam gear dot facing properly toward the crank gear and lined up properly were I can place the holding tool inbetween.There is no dot visible on the crank gear.Is it possible it is under the rather large washer and crank holding bolt OR and follow me here,I swear I can feel a spot on the backside of the gear with a scribe only on that particular tooth.Is there a dot on both sides of the gear?

2.The oil pump Oring that is yellow on the cam story by Scotty is black on my bike.at least the one the dealer gave me is.I simply cannot see it in the joint on the oil pump.My question is after tighting up the oil pump can you still see the Oring or does it draw into the fitting where it is no longer visible?

Thanks all for your help.