is there a product around to skwirt in the igniton lock on the side of the dyna frame? mines gone a bit tight  and needs some type of lube...l was thinking wd-40 but dont know, thought id ask first....

Graphite Powder.........

wd-40 does not really help Wozza, water just washes it out again.... graphite grease is about the only thing short of doing what OSP1340 did and shift the ignition to the console on the tank... something I am likely to do as I have now had issues getting the key in twice in last couple months on an 07 model.... last time tonight and needless to say it was embarrasing

is there any imfo on the ignition switch in the console change over that you know of? ITS TIME for that mod. mines an 06 bob and its been an issue for around 2.5 years now, l dont take my bikes to the shop, so its something ill be doing myself, hoping not to change the whole dash/speedo ass. would prefere an origonal light/ignition switch fiited in the black plastic panel thats on it now,,,threads, comments, problems on this would be appreciated,,,

what about just swapping the barrel for a sporty barrel 07/08 uses a normal key and works properly!!and doesn,t fall out when turned off either!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

Getting water out of the barrels by removing a spark plug?????

Purging NOS lines??????????????????

O.K. THats it ! ! ill keep watch for your imfo on this conversion over the next couple of days, PERRRFECT ! ! !

As for the water in my barrols, its a steam engine been fitted.....

A farting Dyna with whale water spout.

Here is an article about moving the ignition switch to the console

Here is the link

http://hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/97369-ignition-switch-moved-street-bob.html

Hi Guys, I just finished re-locating my ignition from that PITA frame neck switch. It’s easy. Needless to say this is on your own head: I’m not quite sure about photobucket so tell me if the links to the pics don’t work!

Take off the seat and the console. Disconnect the harness to the instruments to free the console. Note the rubber boot on the press switch needs unscrewing a little before you pry (carefully) on the boot.

Assuming you are using a pattern switch like mine you will need to hole saw around 2”/51mm diameter. If you mark this carefully you should take out all the little indentations in this area of the console. I used a pillar driller (and a pilot hole).

Make up a small sub-plate (I used 1/16” thick aluminium) and fix it using some of the screws holding the petrol tank top bulkhead plate on.

Use double sided tape on the base of the new switch. Pull the switch back into the new hole in the console and offer them up to the tank. Align the console over its fixing spire nuts and when you’re happy with the switch position drop it down and press it onto the tape to fix it down.

Take off the console carefully and mark the switch fixing hole points on the new sub-plate. Bolt together, I used brass BA screws. I also put an extra nut UNDER the front 2 fixing holes so the slope of the switch reflected the slope of the console.

Re-assemble and check concentricity with the hole and the slope. You can slot the holes for position and use washers to jack up the slope till you get it spot on. Once you have it right, fix the switch & plate down. Trim the edge of the hole in the console with plastic trim. Make sure the switch moves freely, mine is a bit tight[:@]. Loctite or superglue the nuts!

Access the existing ignition feed via the plastic cover plate at the back of the frame neck, inside the fame down tubes at the top. You can feel the 3 way connector on the back of the neck switch. Pop the clips each end and you can pull back the lead.

At the LHS of the frame neck, remove the rubber grommet. Use a wire hook to slip inside this hole, catch the ignition cable and pull it out. Replace the grommet and the plastic frame plate.

Route this ignition cable over the tank front along with the other cables into the console area. I left the connector on so I can de-convert if I want to. Connect in using spades and extend down to the new switch. Terminate on the switch with ring crimps. Mine is an HDI model. Red is the common feed, Red/black to the ignition and Red/Grey (only gray in U.S.!) to the accessories.

Fire it up. Put it back together. Ensure you don’t crimp the gas line which is bundled together with the electrics under the console edge.

I took the opportunity to (satin) black out the screws on assembly.

I can now ride with my keys in my pocket and my HDSS auto-arms as soon as I switch off and walk away.

Not the most complicated mod in the world but so satisfying. I don’t know why HD didn’t get it right in the first place!

Sorry about the photo quality – forgot my camera. Thank heavens for mobile phones.

All the best. WW.

hey ho noit, l sprayed a little wd40 on the key today , in out a couple of times , nice n free now,, im going to move the  ignition switch  soon to the consol so l figured it wont matter much any how,,, but wd works o.k....

1elcys.. good stuff ! ! the photos are great, & thanks for the rest of the imfo as well,

the photo of the switch n key im sure ive seen in my j&p cat.

what a neat set up,

money & good health to you ! !

l finished my conversioonn(softail type consol switch) yesterday, l used the switch pictured, the black plastic based 3 prong one,
it sits 18mm lower than the consol once mounted on the flat plate, so l had to make a tappered bracket to tilt & lift to get it sitting right,
the 3 prongs also interfere with the ,
nuetral, oil, engine, light fitting, so's the 3 prongs need to be bent downwards a bit and clamped in place, l did use the origonal wiring loom pulled throught hte frame,
just reaches the switch, using the origonal conections no cutting, it works well, but if l were to do it again id look at the other steel type switch it must sit up a lot higher, going by the photo, thered be less mucking about making the mounting bracket ,

I just did the ignition relocation to the console on an 08 streetbob and it is by far the best mod I have done on my bike except for the dobek.
Fairly easy mod, but so bloody enjoyable not have to use the key every time and no fumbling trying to find the hole.

When there is no key involved i don't. hehe

Just for reference for stiff key barrels try a product called "inox" in a spray can it is what locksmiths use.