Has any one got pics or instructions on how to secure or keep open the stupid exhaust flapper thingy on a 08 dyna?

Thanks

Bob

www.hdforums.com.au/Default.aspx

u can buy something for 30 bucks or so or spend it on beer and use a self tapper . open it screw it in u may have to drill a small first well i didn

Jobs done, thanks men
Bob

Can anyone tell me what is the purpose of that flap anyway ?

I nioticed that the flap opens up when you turn the ignition on and then stays open while the engine is running.

i thinks its all explained in the link that ubdead posted.

the flap is for emissions and noise but any hd dealer can disable this using digi tech, some do it before u see the bike but if u ask they will probably do it for nothing

I was just browsing through n I see alot of threads on different ways to disable the active exhaust.

Im a HD tech, its in the vehicle set up section of digi tech, right there in the list every tech looks at when setting up a new bike, its called active exhaust, all u do is click a button saying disable and jobs done, it opens the valve and freezes it there. takes 2 seconds.

If you have sert or sest it should be disabled as the maps r for "race use only" so its programmed out in the map.
The active intake is also able to be turned on and off with sert and sest

well its DT2 which has more functions than the old version. not sure when it was changed, b a while now, everything i PDI gets the old disable treatment cos active exhaust sounds poo and dont do anything positive. i dont know why a dealer would go to the trouble of drilling and screwing it now cos its right there with hfsm setup.

I've got an '07 Fatbob, but have bought a set of Vance and Hines Short Shots. After fitting them, I've got a set of baffles on order... but I'm wondering what to do about the exhaust flapper cable! I'm thinking of delving in and just removing the cable, and the electronic side will be happy...???? Has anyone got thoughts or experience on this?  Can I just remove the cable?

 

just remove the whole module from infront of the battery n tie wrap the loom out of the way, its just held on with a couple of 1/4" bolts n easy to get at. if u havent yet go and see your dealer n get em to disable the active exhaust so it dont throw a code, job done. thats the best way to go bout it.

Thanks for the info, Jordan! Much appreciated.

Now I've got the Vance and Hines with "quiet" baffles installed, I get better fuel consumption, but lots of back-crackle on deceleration. Can my Harley dealer program a new map for me, or do I have to buy an aftermarket unit to flash the ecu?

do you have a hi flo air cleaner too, if you do get it mapped quick, buy a S.E super tuner n get the pre written map for shorty dual exhaust and air cleaner, even without the air cleaner u need more fuel in it, with the map off super tuner just increase the deceleration enrichment, it will help with the popping a bit, there are a couple or other things you can do with this map, but cos they r short n straight out its hard to get rid of the popping altogether

Thanks again, Jordan! But I'm waiting delivery of the Fuelpak, that Vance & Hines seem to think will work okay with their pipes. It's a lot cheaper than other options, so I'm holding my breathe! If it doesn't work... it's on Ebay!

I should start making my own threads, instead of misdirecting other threads

i know where and what the exhuast flapper is but where and what does the intake solenoid do ??

After reading all that, I'm soooooooo happy I have an EVO..........

thanks for that scotty but ! ive had the airfilter off and looked inside the throat of the throttle bodie and cant see anything but the butterfly for the air intake ?? yeah yeah im a dumb ass but ive only ever worked on older stuff so all is not new but some is !

Best thing to do is to get rid of the air cleaner backing plate altogether and fit a Ness big sucker backing plate and filter or equivalent ( the Arlen Ness unit is cheaper than HD), get some of Big Joes eliminator plugs so you can bypass the two solenoids and not get a engine fault light. Lock the exhaust flap open or better yet, replace your stock pipes with something else that allow more flow. Then fit a plugin fuel computer that you can tune yourself. It may cost you $1500 to $2000 but you'll be amazed with the difference it makes. Your engine will perform the way it was originally intended before all the pollution crap had to be put on so the factory could legally sell the bike. (You can also get O2 eliminators so you can use older model pipes on your post 07 bike)

Food for thought but I like what I have now. Prefer the clean look on the pipes but that's just asthetics. Might do some more playing later after I've had some fun with the way it is now.