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Stripped exhaust stud

  • T4
    T4
    2 days ago
    Hey guys, anyone have any sure fire tips for removing a stripped (not broken - yet) exhaust stud?
    2004 Sportster with the motor in place. I have two stud removers; one is too big for the space and the other one (an 8mm) just slips.
     
    With the stud being stripped I cannot use the two locknut trick. As they are an interference fit will heating the stud and letting it cool right down break the bond of dissimilar metals with the alloy head?

    I am guessing as a last resort I will need to weld a nut to the stud and hope that will do the trick.

    Cheers, Will
  • perthhog
    perthhog
    2 days ago
    What you said weld a nut on , give the stud a tap a few times too on the head 
    It helps free it up  , disconnect your battery before you weld it  or 
    Risk upsetting your battery or regulator/ stator or ecu  if it’s efi 
  • OlChesnut
    OlChesnut
    2 days ago
    Before welding, you could try using vice grips.  I've had surprising success with removing studs that way.  It can help if you flatten the stud on both sides to get a better grip.
  • B0nes
    B0nes
    2 days ago
    I broke a stud on my twin cam a few years ago. Used a product called Freeze and Release from Loctite and a set of vice grips. Just sprayed the living crap out of the can around the point where it screws into the head, then clamped the vice grips onto it, gave a short sharp tap on the end with a hammer and bingo. Worked like a charm. YMMV
  • Soapbox2627
    Soapbox2627
    2 days ago
    I have used freeze and release for a while now, wish I had used it on the outboard head, snapped 9 of the SS bolts.
    I also have yield, expensive but good.
  • T4
    T4
    yesterday
    Thanks guys, it looks like I try the 'Freeze and Release'/vice grips method and if that doesn't work it is weld a nut time and cross my fingers. There will be a slight delay til I source some of this Freeze and Release.

    Stay tuned, Will
  • T4
    T4
    yesterday
    Soapbox, what is this 'Yield', and who makes it?

    Cheers, Will
  • brucefxdl
    brucefxdl
    yesterday
    Quoting T4 on 09 Sep 2025 11:38 PM

    Thanks guys, it looks like I try the 'Freeze and Release'/vice grips method and if that doesn't work it is weld a nut time and cross my fingers. There will be a slight delay til I source some of this Freeze and Release.

    Stay tuned, Will

    tip...after welding [ if you go that far ] let it cool completely before attempting to moving it and give the stud a couple of good hits on the end,maybe with a big solid punch,freeze and release will probably help a lot at this point too...hope it helps.
  • Hilly
    Hilly
    yesterday
    Will if the vice grips do the slippy thing and you can get a pair of these on the stud they won't slip once they bite, might not be enough room though, haven't had a sporty since 03(that may change soon) and I can't picture it in my head, hope you get it out though.
    Screenshot_20250910-172102.png
  • beaglebasher
    beaglebasher
    7 hours ago
    The vice grips usually do the job, particularly if you can get two sets on the stud.
  • T4
    T4
    2 hours ago
    Gentlemen, thank you all for your advice, tips and suggestions. I have had some measure of success by using copious amounts of Loctite Freeze & Release (thanks B0nes) and turning the stud with vice grips (thank you all that suggested that method).

    Though it was not a straight forward job and there was some collateral damage :( as it was a bl**dy f**king awkward spot to apply said vice grips, and to actually get them to grip I had to put a piece of pipe on each vice grip handle to get enough grip on the stud to turn it that eighth of a turn, then release and regrip.

    Unfortunately, during the protracted process the vice grips at one stage caught the top fin of the barrel (read:operator trouble) with predictable results, as the photos will show: 
    20250911_211152.jpg
    20250911_211312.jpg
    20250911_211202.jpg
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