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  • Hilly
    Hilly
    14 days ago
    No such thing as consensus when it comes to oil threads, just lots of opinions on what brand is the go, if you go to any of the brand name oil sites they have recommended oils for the compartments, some will say same oil in all three, I wouldn't but many people do. 
    I use these, works for me, there are plenty of others.
    Engine 20W/60, primary 10W/60, trans 80W/140

    Screenshot_20250302-223744_2.png
    Screenshot_20250302-223825_1.png
    Screenshot_20250302-223900.png
  • beaglebasher
    beaglebasher
    14 days ago
    Quote source removed.
    Good fuckin question Harleymark.
    Let me do some googling and I will get back to ya.
  • speedzter
    speedzter
    14 days ago
    I like oil threads 👍

    Hilly , can I ask why you use 10w60 in the primary ?  
    It obviously works , otherwise you wouldn't be using it . Just interested !

    I use Penrite 10w30 MC semi syn - Barnett Kevlar plates with BDL lockup.
  • tussuck
    tussuck
    14 days ago
    Quoting beaglebasher on 02 Mar 2025 12:26 PM

    Good fuckin question Harleymark.

    Let me do some googling and I will get back to ya.

    Note that Tranny oils can be a different makeup as well.... Something to do with protecting any bronze bushings in the tranny as some additives do not play nice with that metal. 
  • Hilly
    Hilly
    14 days ago
    Hey speedzter this particular oil has these specs, API SN/CF, JASO MA2 so it is ok with my clutch, the 10 at cold start up is clutch friendly, the 60 at temp is compensator friendly, I used to use a straight 50, I find this slightly better when selecting first cold, HD have an 80w140 gear oil they put in the primary, CST wise I like the penrite better, do you notice any comp wear with the 30?

  • Retroman
    Retroman
    13 days ago
    Right now I have Penrite 20w60 and 10w60 and 15w50 on the shelf for engine oil replacement.

    I have the same Penrite 80w140 Pro gear for gearbox replacement. Similar Hilly's photos.

    In the primary I use Penrite Pro Gear 75w85 "light gear" oil, has a wee motorcycle on the bottle showing clutch compatible.

    In part I use this as it's an attempt to minimise primary chain/ compensator noise. Works OK for that.

    I have used EVERY other thing over the last 30 years, Amsoil, Mobil 1, Redline and others. All of them good.

    It's just logistically easier for me now to restock at Supercheap on 25% off club days. There are 2 locations within 7 K's of home.

    Occasionally I will find something on "Super special" like my last 20 litre drum of Penrite 20w60. Best price/litre on the day.

    I have also had super deals on 1 litre bottles of gear oils on clearance at $8, WAY cheaper than the 2.5 litre bottles I normally buy in pairs.

    That 5 litres services 5 bikes

    I service most of my mate's bikes and other guys by recommendation. I am NOT a shop per Se and have no "favourite" brand.
    Penrite 10w60 5 litre_2.png
    Penrite 15w50_2.jpg
    Penrite 75w85_2.jpg
  • tussuck
    tussuck
    13 days ago
    TBH... Harley oils are not that bad and well priced compared to the competition.  I run normal harley engine and tranny fluids in the Sporty and she is going strong at 145,000km.  If you change every 5000km then thats the secret sauce!
  • Retroman
    Retroman
    13 days ago
    Harley 80w140 synthetic gear oil is over $40 a bottle. That's for 946ml. It can do the big twin primary also.

    Penrite 80w140 is $60 (less on club 25% days) for 2.5 litres so not even close on $ per litre.

    Probably not an issue for an individual servicing his own bike once per year, I get that, AND easy to get at the Harley shop.

    Nearest HD dealer to me since Frasers pulled back east would be 40 K's.

    My own personal bike gets 3 hole oil change plus OEM oil filter once per year as I no longer do big K's. Around 4000 K's P.A.

    But I service LOTS of other bikes and "bulk" buying just makes sense for me.
  • tussuck
    tussuck
    13 days ago
    Good callout...  I'm a solo service every 5000km with three dealers all in spitting distance (approx50km).  Since COVID and this WFH chit, my annual mileage has dropped a LOT - I recon the Sporty would be nudging 170k otherwise.

    Good oil, at a regular interval + filters is always a winner (regardless of the oil brand)
  • brucefxdl
    brucefxdl
    13 days ago
    i have done 70,000km on my '07 lowrider [ 32,000km on it when i bought it].engine oil every 4-5000km and primary/trans oil every 8-10,000 km depending on how long the last/next trip is.HD mineral in the engine,JD hygard trans oil in the primary [ clutch is much nicer with this oil ,former JD field tech ] and HD formula in the trans.cold in gear is good,neutral is never a problem hot or cold.as  others have said,oil and filter changes regularly help everything,at the end of the day oil/maintenace is cheap.
  • WideglidingNZ
    WideglidingNZ
    12 days ago
    Quoting brucefxdl on 04 Mar 2025 02:52 AM

    i have done 70,000km on my '07 lowrider [ 32,000km on it when i bought it].engine oil every 4-5000km and primary/trans oil every 8-10,000 km depending on how long the last/next trip is.HD mineral in the engine,JD hygard trans oil in the primary [ clutch is much nicer with this oil ,former JD field tech ] and HD formula in the trans.cold in gear is good,neutral is never a problem hot or cold.as  others have said,oil and filter changes regularly help everything,at the end of the day oil/maintenace is cheap.

    So the JD hygard is John Deer stuff? I use Belray primary chaincase lubricant(for the primary)- https://www.belray.com/product/primary-chaincase-lubricant/ it was recommended by Fuelmoto USA who do plenty of performance builds and done 100's of trips down the drag strip, it is a mineral based product, Redline shock proof for the trans, Penrite 20w-50 for the engine 
  • Hilly
    Hilly
    12 days ago
    I looked on the Penrite oil finder again because of this topic, they only list one oil (MC4ST 20W50) for my FLSS in all 3 holes now with no substitutes! 
    Got to admit I haven't looked for a few years for my specific bike, why it's changed so much I don't know. 
    The 110's were all the ten tenths 20W/60 racing oil in all 3 back in 2012, I knew they changed that when they came out with the vtwin offering but the 20/60 10/10 had not changed so I figured that was a money grab.
    The primary case substitute used to be 10w50 semi syn and the box was 75w80 full syn, the box is ment to be a GL-4 as it's kinder to syncro's than a GL-5 however they say the 80W/140 is safe with gold and silver metals so......yeah! 

  • speedzter
    speedzter
    12 days ago
    Quoting Hilly on 02 Mar 2025 10:43 PM

    Hey speedzter this particular oil has these specs, API SN/CF, JASO MA2 so it is ok with my clutch, the 10 at cold start up is clutch friendly, the 60 at temp is compensator friendly, I used to use a straight 50, I find this slightly better when selecting first cold, HD have an 80w140 gear oil they put in the primary, CST wise I like the penrite better, do you notice any comp wear with the 30?


    Hilly, no problems with my older style compensator .
    10w30 is similar weight to a 70w80 gear oil.
    I noticed comparing the specs that the 10w60 is about twice the viscosity as the 10w30 @ 40 and 100 deg C ,which is interesting.
    You would think the "10" spec would be closer.

    I recently tried ATF ( recommended by Barnett at one stage ) in the primary, and drained it out after about 100km . Made too many weird noises 👎

    One other general thing I'll mention , in a big twin,  gear oil is safe for well over 20,000 KMs, not sure I'd trust engine oil as long in the gearbox.
  • tussuck
    tussuck
    12 days ago
    Yeah been down the Tranny fluid route and drained pretty quick as well... bloody noisy in the Primary.  I just round my oil changes to be 5k for engine and 10k for the rest.  Might be a little frequent for the rest but its an easy number to remember and cheaper than broken parts - esp now that the USA parts market is going to turn to chit.
  • brucefxdl
    brucefxdl
    11 days ago
    Quoting brucefxdl on 04 Mar 2025 02:52 AM

    i have done 70,000km on my '07 lowrider [ 32,000km on it when i bought it].engine oil every 4-5000km and primary/trans oil every 8-10,000 km depending on how long the last/next trip is.HD mineral in the engine,JD hygard trans oil in the primary [ clutch is much nicer with this oil ,former JD field tech ] and HD formula in the trans.cold in gear is good,neutral is never a problem hot or cold.as  others have said,oil and filter changes regularly help everything,at the end of the day oil/maintenace is cheap.

    Quoting WideglidingNZ on 04 Mar 2025 03:37 PMedited: 04 Mar 2025 03:43 PM

    So the JD hygard is John Deer stuff? I use Belray primary chaincase lubricant(for the primary)- https://www.belray.com/product/primary-chaincase-lubricant/ it was recommended by Fuelmoto USA who do plenty of performance builds and done 100's of trips down the drag strip, it is a mineral based product, Redline shock proof for the trans, Penrite 20w-50 for the engine 

    yes,John Deere,trans/hydralic fliud,for wet clutchs and brakes with anti squark [ chatter additive  ] as well as planetary axle and normal trans component lubrication.15w40 and gl5 80w90 specs.
  • Hilly
    Hilly
    10 days ago
    I want to clarify something I touched on earlier, there are lots of different oils out there that will meet or exceed OEM gearbox oil recommendations, you do need to be sure about what you are using though, the penrite 80w140 is rated as a GL-5 oil but it's protection additive is ok with yellow metals, some GL-5 rated oils with a different additive mix are really bad for the syncro's, GL4 is recommended for the HD box for that reason, I assume HD's 80W140 meets that spec as well.
  • tussuck
    tussuck
    10 days ago
    Yeah I think its the Phosphorus levels that are what impact yellow metals.
    Lets not for get Redline Shockproof for Transmissions and Redline normal for Sporty (I did try it in the Sporty but tbh the HD Primary oil is hard to beat)
  • paulybronco
    paulybronco
    10 days ago
    The strawberry milkshake for me in the gearbox.
  • 408
    408
    10 days ago
    There have been some reports of problems with moisture in Redline Shockproof.
    Probably related to cold weather and short trips, but the additives in some oils contribute to the problem.
  • Hilly
    Hilly
    9 days ago
    I think I will change what I use in the gearbox, tussuck's comment made me have a good look.
    I used to use penrite 85w/110, it was made for Harley boxes, have pics of it to back that up, they stopped making it a few years ago, I had a some in the shed so I used it up before I changed to the 80W/140, not sure now how I got onto that one but I know it's popular.......
    They are both a GL-5 gear oils, but, big but, the phosphorus mass percentage is different, the 140 has a percentage of .2, the 110 only had it at .046.
    I could go into all the shit I read this morning but to make it easy at .2 the phosphorus adhesion is 5x stronger than at .1, .1 is an acceptable level apparently(the penrite engine oil recommended for all 3 holes in my bike has a .1 percentage)
    This matters because as the phosphorus coating peels off in operation the .2 adhesion is stronger than the brass and it pulls molecules off the syncros, over time this will make them ineffective.
    So that's what I've learnt today, dunno what I'll use now, not keen on the engine oil but maybe I need to pull my bull head in and follow instructions for a change.
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