Online: beaglebasher, Hilly, FONTANA302

FLHT 2009 Fork oil change

  • sag57
    sag57
    5 months
    Well this is the theory l have made a tool that enables me to screw into where the drain plug is on the leg which has a quarter turn valve to enable you to use a large syringe to push oil back into leg with out having to strip  the fairing. My theory is once the oil has drained from the leg fit the tool recharge the leg with harley Type E fork oil to the correct amount , refit drain using a allen bolt which is 8mm x 1.25 pitch because the HD phillips head screw is a peice of junk. Also the amount of oil in each leg is 317 mill there should be enough air volume in the leg not to be restrictive  when pushing the oil back in. l was also going to let them drain for a while taking note on how much oil comes out. Like l said this is my theory , any one else done similar to what lm suggesting. 09 models dont have a cartridge in the left leg , lm lead to beleive that was discontinued in 06
  • beaglebasher
    beaglebasher
    5 months
    That is a good  theory  saggy but unfortunately I am a lazy bastard and havent changed the oil in the forks for at least 10 years.
    If you need any advice on how to follow my procedure dont be scared to ask.

  • sag57
    sag57
    5 months
    Hello Beagle well mine is 15 years old in April next year its done 48k and its due but the thought of stripping the bat wing just doesnt do it for me hence the theory
  • Jetta
    Jetta
    5 months
    I like your theory....
    Only trouble I have with this is trying to push oil back into something that will be.....
    Airtight...If ya knows what I mean..

  • Neale
    Neale
    5 months
    Just did my 08 FLHT fork legs rebuild. 130 thou old.
    The biggest pain/worry was the ignition key which has to be removed to pull the dash.
    The rest is just bolts. Not a biggie, you just have to plod along with it.
    If you decide to pull it down yourself, just mark the wiring connections with tape or paint to make it easier to put back together.
    Incidentally , after 130,000 kms the old springs were 10 mm or so longer than the genuine new ones.
    I just ran original factory parts and oil. Rides better.


  • sag57
    sag57
    5 months
    Yes Neale the ignition lock is a pain in the arse put the lock into position to remove then the fork lock was engaged couldnt straighten the bars up had to pull the lock off and use a peice of copper tubing flattened out to realign the lock to make it functional again , thats when l thought l will see if l can fill from the bottom , l am going to post on the american hd site and see what replies l get there. if this works l will post a pic of the tool l made and procedure l used
  • Grease Monkey
    Grease Monkey
    5 months
    If you mean HTT then you will get the old follow the manual speel, with the cap on its gunna take awhile to drain, while technically not the right way to go about it if you can get the bung back in without loosing any oil due to the air inside the fork being slightly compressed you will end up with new oil in the forks, it's not a race bike so it won't really matter that much if the level is off a little.
  • sag57
    sag57
    5 months
    Well Hello fellow lunatics. Well l had to give it a go , put the Granny Glide up on the lift stand dropped the drain plugs used a bar to pump the legs and got approximately 310 mill of oil out of both legs and the oil was pitch black with traces of metal through it so highly reccomend you do the fork oil change say at 25000 klm. Fitted my tool l made to the leg started pumping back in but no joy to much resistance was hoping that would have had enough room to fill each leg with the required amont of 317mm, To much resistance so back to stripping the fairing to gain access to the plugs at the top of the trees and filling from the top. it was worth a go. Bugger
  • sag57
    sag57
    5 months
    Job done took the batwing off gained access to the top of the forks that way but when you do the job you will need a 1 3/8 th ring open ender to remove the caps . An ROE is the go because the ring is flatter and not offset so much as a ring spanner. Also mine is a FLHT Electra Glide standard so l havent got a jukebox in it enabeling me to remove the glove box easily to give better access to the caps. If youve got a juke box its no big deal just a bit more fiddly. l also had a small hand pump for filling gearboxs , it comes in a kit with different fittings and you get these from places like super cheap .lf your not confident and havent got the tools or space take it to a shop , l was quoated $450 to do the jo at a local Harley dealership . Hope this has helped others