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External breather air cleaner

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  • Streetbob10
    Streetbob10
    1 year ago
    How many of you guys run an external breather system on the air cleaner. I’m debating on doing one for my twin cam 
  • B0nes
    B0nes
    1 year ago
    Seriously thinking about doing this also on the Night Train when the next round of the modding bug hits again. It's like an illness. Let's see, external breather mod (done) oh hell, might as well do the internal breathers in the heads while I playing around, damn! think I'll install rocker lockers while I'm in there, bloody hell, might pull the heads and have them modded also. Told you it's an illness.
  • Grease Monkey
    Grease Monkey
    1 year ago
    I do, have done for a number of years.
  • paulybronco
    paulybronco
    1 year ago
    I have them on my Street Glide.
  • tussuck
    tussuck
    1 year ago
    Have both yes and no for externals over the years.  on the Evo is a tube to vent under the bike, but its a bottom breather and the sporty just pops into the air filter a bit like stock.  I recon its all the same unless your running high rpm and getting a good amount of blowby tbh.
  • Hoodeng
    Hoodeng
    1 year ago
    If you have a look in my photos you will see the system i use. The only time i see anything at the breather is after the first stretch of a long ride, there will be a little vapor issuing from the pipe, this is not an issue as it is condensation that has built up internally, there should be nothing after that visible coming from the breather.

            Experiencing blow by, which is combustion gasses leaking past the rings carrying oil to its point of release, be that in the air tract or to atmosphere is described as follows.
           There are a couple of ways that this can occur, first, a poorly finished bore or poor rings, this is actually uncommon as bores these days are done on industry standard machines and hone finished in a similar way, and to be honest i have not seen a poorly made ring set for over thirty years.
     The most common cause of poorly seated rings is the run in process, pussying an engine around for whatever is dictated for run in period increases the chances of glazing bores, once this occurs it can not be reversed, to correct this the cylinders need to be removed and the surfaces interrupted.

       You do not have to flog a new bike to seat rings, [on a quiet back road] just putting it in third or fourth and starting off at around two thousand rpm with a steady throttle and then pulling it to the stop till forty five hundred or five, then shutting it, repeat this a half dozen times or more and repeat this process a couple of times early in the run in period will seat the rings as good as they will ever be. You will not hurt anything else with this process as the heat build up is momentary.
  • Scouser
    Scouser
    1 year ago
    Had this on the Evo
    B1F6B716-DC73-4CE1-8C0D-4AE3026087D4.jpeg
  • Jay-Dee
    Jay-Dee
    1 year ago
    Quoting Hoodeng on 18 Dec 2022 11:16 PM

    If you have a look in my photos you will see the system i use. The only time i see anything at the breather is after the first stretch of a long ride, there will be a little vapor issuing from the pipe, this is not an issue as it is condensation that has built up internally, there should be nothing after that visible coming from the breather.

            Experiencing blow by, which is combustion gasses leaking past the rings carrying oil to its point of release, be that in the air tract or to atmosphere is described as follows.
           There are a couple of ways that this can occur, first, a poorly finished bore or poor rings, this is actually uncommon as bores these days are done on industry standard machines and hone finished in a similar way, and to be honest i have not seen a poorly made ring set for over thirty years.
     The most common cause of poorly seated rings is the run in process, pussying an engine around for whatever is dictated for run in period increases the chances of glazing bores, once this occurs it can not be reversed, to correct this the cylinders need to be removed and the surfaces interrupted.

       You do not have to flog a new bike to seat rings, [on a quiet back road] just putting it in third or fourth and starting off at around two thousand rpm with a steady throttle and then pulling it to the stop till forty five hundred or five, then shutting it, repeat this a half dozen times or more and repeat this process a couple of times early in the run in period will seat the rings as good as they will ever be. You will not hurt anything else with this process as the heat build up is momentary.

    You do not have to flog a new bike to seat rings, [on a quiet back road] just putting it in third or fourth and starting off at around two thousand rpm with a steady throttle and then pulling it to the stop till forty five hundred or five, then shutting it, repeat this a half dozen times or more and repeat this process a couple of times early in the run in period will seat the rings as good as they will ever be. You will not hurt anything else with this process as the heat build up is momentary.

    Yep, and as well as this if possible when going up an incline I'll try to accelerate slightly just to load the engine a bit, but not labour it. 

    Really all you have to do is get the rings bedded in, maybe a couple of heat cycles and it's good to go. Everything else runs on a film of oil so there's very little to be gained in babying it after that.
  • tussuck
    tussuck
    1 year ago
    Plus a fresh oil and filter change once bedded in to remove metal from the bedding in process - as a precaution.

  • 408
    408
    1 year ago
    My two bob's worth for seating rings.
    Make sure cylinder liners are hospital clean before assembly, and then a light coat of oil. Coat ring grooves and rings with oil during assembly.
    I use a light mineral oil (preferred) or synthetic blend after a top end rebuild. 10w 40 preferred or 15W 40.
    I do 3 heat cycles and then out on the road. A quiet highway with a wide bitumen shoulder is good.
    I get into 3rd gear and roll up to 100 kph and them use compression breaking down to 50.
    Repeat half a dozen times and then home to change oil filter and switch to synthetic. Done.

    There is also a dry lube about, which is supposed to be pretty good.
    Quick Seat by Total Seal.


  • Jay-Dee
    Jay-Dee
    1 year ago
    Quoting tussuck on 19 Dec 2022 10:15 PM

    Plus a fresh oil and filter change once bedded in to remove metal from the bedding in process - as a precaution.


    Absolutely, goes without saying.
  • obisteve
    obisteve
    1 year ago
    So no one uses the old speedway method of blowing in a palm full of powdered chalk into the carby throat while revving it anymore? I am out of touch!
  • B0nes
    B0nes
    1 year ago
    Quoting obisteve on 20 Dec 2022 10:39 PM

    So no one uses the old speedway method of blowing in a palm full of powdered chalk into the carby throat while revving it anymore? I am out of touch!

    Worked for a truck repair mob after leaving school too many moons ago. They would get used engines, set them up on a test stand and with the engine running at high speed then they would throw a handful of ajax into the intake. Said it was a great way to deglaze the cylinders.
  • obisteve
    obisteve
    1 year ago
    Chalk is a softer option, not as hard as the crushed quartz in Ajax. And up till the early 90s speedway motors all were total loss oil systems. Not a subtle sport speedway, hold it wide open off the line until you get round the first bend or hit the fence. Watched so many riders go straight into the fence at the first bend at Nambour showground many years ago. 
  • Hoodeng
    Hoodeng
    1 year ago
    I would need to have explained to me a little better the benefit of pouring abrasives into the inlet tract of the engines we are discussing here???
  • Grease Monkey
    Grease Monkey
    1 year ago
    But of grinding paste into the engine oil for them tight or cooked donks to add a little clearance....



    I made that up, honest lol
  • brucefxdl
    brucefxdl
    1 year ago
    Quoting obisteve on 20 Dec 2022 10:39 PM

    So no one uses the old speedway method of blowing in a palm full of powdered chalk into the carby throat while revving it anymore? I am out of touch!

    Quoting B0nes on 21 Dec 2022 01:00 AM

    Worked for a truck repair mob after leaving school too many moons ago. They would get used engines, set them up on a test stand and with the engine running at high speed then they would throw a handful of ajax into the intake. Said it was a great way to deglaze the cylinders.

    saw this attempted on a 3 cylinder perkins diesel.....bit too much ajax and a rebuild followed.....lol,but was certainly a practice a few years ago....along with sawdust in the trans and banana skins in the diff......Dodgy motors.
  • Neale
    Neale
    1 year ago
    I did this to my 08 Electra Glide, works a treat.
    I still have it vented to the atmosphere using fuel line I scored from a truck parts place.
    I just ran it to the bottom of the frame. All I get is a foamy residue which isn’t giving me any dramas. Just need to give it an occasional wipe over.
    0E2AD0F8-7BA7-47E3-A664-CCA3E462FF3C.jpeg
  • Baloffski
    Baloffski
    1 year ago

    Know not really aligned with post topic, but I've always thrown in a little bit of two stoke oil into fuel tank, only when 
     think she needs just a little 'lube' for whatever my unsound mind reasons it..
  • bloodog
    bloodog
    1 year ago
    Quoting Baloffski on 26 Dec 2022 08:09 PM


    Know not really aligned with post topic, but I've always thrown in a little bit of two stoke oil into fuel tank, only when 
     think she needs just a little 'lube' for whatever my unsound mind reasons it..

    as a kid I would put a little bit of Castor oil in my bike fuel tank, made the fumes every were I went smell like racing fuel. 
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