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Road King Clutch Grabbing

  • GGUser472
    GGUser472
    2 years ago
    I've a 2016 Road king.I'm having trouble with the clutch. The gears engage OK and the clutch action is smooth as as it engages until the very end where it grabs badly. The OME primary adjuster over tensioned the primary chain. When the grabbing started and i fitted an Hayden auto adjuster which helped a bit. Before that I replaced the primary oil with mineral engine oil when I changed for Motul mineral transmission fluid which made a big difference but still not great. I've replaced the oil again with Motul full synthetic engine oil and it works very well until it gets hot and still grabs. I've taken the clutch apart 3 times and every thing is within spec. I don't ride hard but have a sidecar fitted that may have affected the chain tensioner. It's got me beat I'd appreciate any suggestions
  • Grease Monkey
    Grease Monkey
    2 years ago
    G'day mate, when you say everything is within spec what exactly did you check?
  • GGUser472
    GGUser472
    2 years ago
    Thanks for replying mate
    Friction plates not worn, steel plates not glazes and true, clutch drum and centre running free and true, cable free, clutch in correct adjustment. Actuator operating correctly. It’s got me buggered. I’m leaning towards an oil issue. 
  • Grease Monkey
    Grease Monkey
    2 years ago
    I don't want to tell you how to suck eggs or anything but if all componentry is in order then i would be double checking the adjustment, couple of ways of doing it, when I had the 06 Dyna I preferred the Hippo method.

    1971 proceedure.
    Loosen the cable adjuster and make sure the lever has free play.

    Turn the clutch adjustment screw in until you free it make contact with the throwout bearing and then turn it in 2 more turns. This releases the clutch and sets the balls in the bottom of the ramps.

    Now turn the cable adjuster out until all the play is removed. You have to check this in three handlebar positions, left stop, straight, and right stop. You need to remove the play without applying any cable preload in any handle bar position. 
    Lock the cable locknut down, the cable slack is now properly adjusted with the balls at zero position in the ramps.

    Now turn the clutch screw out until it turns free, then back in until it just contacts the throwout bearing, this is zero free play on the bearing.

    Now back the screw out at least 1/4 of a turn for minimum free play. If you want the friction zone on your clutch lever closer to the handle bar you can back the screw out more but this will result in more lever free travel and less pressure plate movement which can lead to clutch drag. It was also recommended that the final adjustments and fine tuning be done with the bike at operating temperature because the expansion of all the transmission and clutch components will change the free play. Remember that once the cable housing play is removed the fine adjustments are made at the clutch screw.

    Hippo clutch adjustment procedure

    1. Loosen the clutch cable adjuster and shorten the cable sleeve as much as possible, but dont mess with the lever. Just leave it alone until the 3rd step.

    2. Loosen the lock nut on the clutch pack push rod adjuster.

    3. Pull in the clutch lever. It should touch the handle bar grip. If it does not touch the handle bar grip back out the push rod adjuster at the clutch pack while keeping pressure on the clutch lever until it touches the handlebar.

    4. When the clutch lever touches the handle bar turn in the push rod adjuster while keeping pressure with your hand on the clutch lever. When you turn in the adjuster it will start to push the lever off the handle bar. Back the adjuster out until the lever returns to just touching the handle bar. Do this a couple of times until you know you are at the point where the lever is just touching the bar. When you find this point - back the adjuster out 1/2 turn and lock it down.

    5. Adjust the clutch cable to 1/8 slack and lock it down.
  • GGUser472
    GGUser472
    2 years ago
    Thanks for the info mate. Your never to old to learn something new. I’ve not heard of these methods before. I like the Hippo method and will use that from now on.
    Unfortunately the problem is still there. It’s a curly one. I haven’t given up yet. If you think of any thing else I’d appreciate a heads up. Thanks again 
  • Grease Monkey
    Grease Monkey
    2 years ago
    Have you checked all the balls are in the ramps? Things can go a bit south in there under the right(wrong) circumstances and the clutch can sometimes still operate but gives you trouble.
  • GGUser472
    GGUser472
    2 years ago
    Cheers mate. I’ll let you know. 
  • 408
    408
    2 years ago
    I was curious to see how you would go with the adjustment because if that doesn't fix it , I reckon you are back to your componentry. (luv that terminology GM :) )
    When I read your post, the first thing that occurred to me was the primary fluid being the cause. Some say no synthetics in the primary. But the wrong fluid or overfill would be more likely to create drag, rather than a grab.
    I run B&M trickshift, recommended by my clutch manufacturer. It is basically an atf but still suffices for the chain and compensator.

    You probably don't feel like draining the primary and pulling the cover again but I reckon your clutch needs another look.
    Check the basket for notching between the fingers. The plates may be hanging up there and creating the grab. Any ridges or notches can be filed flat but the the basket will eventually need to be replaced because the increased clearance will cause it to wear faster.
    I'd check the plates again too, lay the steels out individually on a piece of glass, and inspect the fibres for anything unusual.

    You could wait a bit to see if there are any other suggestions and address all possibilities while you are in there.
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