Cam Choice

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  • Lushy
    Lushy
    3 years ago
    many harley performance builds aim for 0.030".


     These are the ones where the piston starts hitting the head after the build is not brand new. 
  • Lushy
    Lushy
    3 years ago
    Go for your life. I didn't Google any links, just have pulled a few top ends off with witness marks on the head/ piston. I do qualify that by saying I don't know about the EVO clearance, just twin cams. 
  • 408
    408
    3 years ago
    Performance build implies running a good tune, or carbon build-up will close up that gap and lead to piston/head contact.
  • Lushy
    Lushy
    3 years ago
    Mate I spend a fair portion of my life tuning (and fixing)Harley "performance builds" almost no-one checks the squish properly, maybe in the world of the interweb, but not in real life. And I do mean almost no-one.  One after another they come in the door with less than optimal settings or builds. For a STREET bike, not a drag bike or a coffee shop bike, they need to be safe and consistent with a good tune, and a good combo of parts. HP and Tq will also come with those ingredients. I set all the harley stuff at .040" because of the above reasons. If I was building one for myself I might sneak it to .037" but really the difference in real word performance in say a 130hp TC110 with a .040" squish to the same engine with a .035" is almost not measurable. At .030" one is relying on the cylinder growth from hot to cold to keep you clear from contact, you personally may get away with it but the ones I see don't. The current world of M8 web builds is to fit a miracle cam and have mental cylinder pressure, you get staggering torque at WOT at 2000rpm  (where you never get the chance to do that on the road) and a great dyno sheet for the front bar, but in real life( not a four second dyno test with the knock sensor turned off) the poor thing is baking hot after 20 minutes riding and then pulling 5 degrees of ignition out on the knock sensors anyway. Where is the torque/power then?
  • Lushy
    Lushy
    3 years ago
    Wombat, if you have the thing apart and then measure the squish(piston to head clearance), I am suggesting maybe .040" or 1mm is a good option. As Hoody said previous most EVOs are way more than this. Fitting thinner gaskets or light machining will get you a significant gain going from say .065" to .040" . The gain you will get going and extra .005" closer will be negligible. It is a 35+yr old bike not a MotoGP engine.
  • 408
    408
    3 years ago
    Quoting Lushy on 16 Aug 2022 11:19 PM

    Mate I spend a fair portion of my life tuning (and fixing)Harley "performance builds" almost no-one checks the squish properly, maybe in the world of the interweb, but not in real life. And I do mean almost no-one.  One after another they come in the door with less than optimal settings or builds. For a STREET bike, not a drag bike or a coffee shop bike, they need to be safe and consistent with a good tune, and a good combo of parts. HP and Tq will also come with those ingredients. I set all the harley stuff at .040" because of the above reasons. If I was building one for myself I might sneak it to .037" but really the difference in real word performance in say a 130hp TC110 with a .040" squish to the same engine with a .035" is almost not measurable. At .030" one is relying on the cylinder growth from hot to cold to keep you clear from contact, you personally may get away with it but the ones I see don't. The current world of M8 web builds is to fit a miracle cam and have mental cylinder pressure, you get staggering torque at WOT at 2000rpm  (where you never get the chance to do that on the road) and a great dyno sheet for the front bar, but in real life( not a four second dyno test with the knock sensor turned off) the poor thing is baking hot after 20 minutes riding and then pulling 5 degrees of ignition out on the knock sensors anyway. Where is the torque/power then?


    I know what you do for a living, and take on board any advice you give out on this forum.
    I understand why you would set squish at 0.040" for the work in your shop.
    I set mine at 0.030" because I know there are benefits if it is done right, but I measure and check everything I do.
    I tune my bike, for crank to run and idle, as well as cruise, then go to a shop for WOT.
    For me, the proof is in the pudding. I have had no piston to head contact, but I warm the bike up before I take off.
    I have just changed cams and heads and gone again with 0.030".



  • Jay-Dee
    Jay-Dee
    3 years ago
    You mentioned additional mods in the future after fitting a cam now, that's how it started to get off track.

    Once you start talking about additional mods on a forum with enthusiasts, and knowledgeable ones at that who are willing to share the benefit of their expertise, the sky then becomes the limit.
  • tussuck
    tussuck
    3 years ago
    I recon we can milk this thread for another week or so!  lol
  • beaglebasher
    beaglebasher
    3 years ago
    Personally speaking I have been enjoying the technical aspects of this thread. I would be enjoying it even more if my head wasn't bursting !
  • beaglebasher
    beaglebasher
    3 years ago
    Not that I am confused or anything but what is the difference between compression and squish again?
    I always thought that squish was how much the gaskets would be squashed  when you tightened the head bolts.
    I am just a dirty arsed old fitter but. 

  • 408
    408
    3 years ago

    static compression or corrected compression ?
  • beaglebasher
    beaglebasher
    3 years ago
    What is the difference  between static and corrected compression?
    I will drop a couple of panadols and have another think about it.
  • tussuck
    tussuck
    3 years ago
    What blew me away was just how high the compression was when I was running at 10lbs of boost!  Thank god the starting compression is a mighty low 8:1 on Evos... 
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