What did you guys do on your bikes today?

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What did you guys do on your bikes today?

51/52

Hilly
9 months

Printer is coming in handy, useful knickknacks that make life easier, it's the little things as they say 👍

Stuart
7 months

Made a routine job a pain in the arse last night.

Changing the fork seals on the Dyna - sheared off one of the pinchbolts in the lower triple tree bracket nipping it up to hold the fork leg while removing the fork plug. Looking at the bolt, it appears to have been partially fractured for some time.

I guess today I'll be removing the triple tree and heading to the workshop. Where I'm thinking I'll first try and remove it by drilling it out with a left-handed drill bit. And see where I end up.

speedzter
7 months

Quoting Stuart on 25 Apr 2025 10:47 PM
Made a routine job a pain in the arse last night.

Changing the fork seals on the Dyna - sheared off one of the pinchbolts in the lower triple tree bracket nipping it up to hold the fork leg while removing the fork plug. Looking at the bolt, it appears to have been partially fractured for some time.

I guess today I'll be removing the triple tree and heading to the workshop. Where I'm thinking I'll first try and remove it by drilling it out with a left-handed drill bit. And see where I end up.

I'd consider it lucky you found it this way .
Should be easy enough to remove.
At the worst, just weld a nut on the end .

Now is a good time to replace the other bolts !

Wanderer57 likes this post

Stuart
7 months

Quoting Stuart on 25 Apr 2025 10:47 PM
Made a routine job a pain in the arse last night.

Changing the fork seals on the Dyna - sheared off one of the pinchbolts in the lower triple tree bracket nipping it up to hold the fork leg while removing the fork plug. Looking at the bolt, it appears to have been partially fractured for some time.

I guess today I'll be removing the triple tree and heading to the workshop. Where I'm thinking I'll first try and remove it by drilling it out with a left-handed drill bit. And see where I end up.

Quoting speedzter on 26 Apr 2025 12:44 AM
I'd consider it lucky you found it this way .
Should be easy enough to remove.
At the worst, just weld a nut on the end .

Now is a good time to replace the other bolts !

No room to weld a nut on - or to get a socket in there even if I could :-(

Definitely going over the other bolts :-)

speedzter
7 months

If you remove the chrome cover under the headlight, you may be able to get to the broken bolt from the front ?
You can use a standard drill, and a square shank bolt remover .

Stuart likes this post

Stuart
7 months

Quoting speedzter on 26 Apr 2025 11:35 PMedited: 26 Apr 2025 11:40 PM
If you remove the chrome cover under the headlight, you may be able to get to the broken bolt from the front ?
You can use a standard drill, and a square shank bolt remover .

You are correct :-)

Wound straight out as I was drilling it.

I'd like to think I would have realised this if I had gone ahead with removing the trees - though I was already thinking 3 steps ahead, so maybe not.

The bolt on the other fork looks fine - but I will replace it anyway.

Thank you.

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Hilly
7 months

Hope this as close as the bike gets to a wallaby, needs a wash.......

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obisteve
7 months

Got the Ikon shock rebuild kit today, managed to bicycle the 14km round trip to the post office and back -- no mail delivery here.
Kit is 4 O rings and 2 oil seals. $68 and $20 postage from Albury.
In the pic, the one in the sealed bag is the Ikon kit, the stuff in the old zip lock is a rebuild kit for the Koni's that were on the Sporty before the Ikons. No good putting a rebuild kit of seals in a shock that's had the circlip that holds the top shock eye assembly to the shaft fret on the shaft, wear the shaft excessively then break up.
Just by eye, it looks like the parts are identical, I'll run the verniers over them tomorrow in better light and see.
I know that there are some differences between the Dutch originals and the Oz made product; the circlip that holds the top eye assembly to the shaft is redesigned and much stronger for one thing.
I had read on the internet (so it must be true) that the seal profile is different. I'll know tomorrow.
I'll also measure the O rings and check if they're standard industrial parts if anyone with Ikons wants to pursue cheaper rebuild options.

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obisteve
7 months

After leaving the old Ikon 7610s soaking in a bucket of strong detergent for a couple of days then pressure wasing them, I pulled out my bushies shock spring compressor and started stripping them. Found a problem immediately, corrosion and probably wear in the Hard chrome on both shock shafts, probably the cause of the leaking seals. Now I could see how much it cleans up with brass wire brushing and polishing with fine emery tape and reassemble with the new seals, see how long it lasts or go the next step up in the rebuild kits, new damper bodies already assembled onto the shafts and attachment eyes, about $425 a pair if I remember correctly. Didn't really want to spend that much, gonna think about it a bit more.

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Hilly
7 months

I know you know so this is just me reminding you that you know, you know 😁

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obisteve
7 months

Quoting Hilly on 12 May 2025 07:48 AM
I know you know so this is just me reminding you that you know, you know 😁

And yeah, I do know, but I've been guilty before of covering up similar damage on some Norton forks with Devcon metal filled epoxy, taking it back with fine emery tape. Lasted another 5 years. You can get away with a bit more when you can hide it under fork gaiters.
It was hard to get Norton spares in Brisbane for a while in the late 70's until BJs opened up and the international Norton Owners Club got its spares scheme together.

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Hilly
7 months

Fork seals I could see myself having a crack if I had to but rear shocks are under a bit more duress in the sealing side of things, only one way to find out for sure though.

speedzter
7 months

Check in with RAD hard chroming .
You never know , maybe a cheaper option to re-plate the shafts .

brucefxdl, Hilly, Stuart and obisteve like this post

brucefxdl
7 months

Quoting speedzter on 13 May 2025 07:27 AM
Check in with RAD hard chroming .
You never know , maybe a cheaper option to re-plate the shafts .

RAD were who i was thinking of,havent had anything done by them ,but have a pair of forks to do. i believe they do a good job.

obisteve
7 months

I've been thinking of RAD too and having them centreless grind and replate the shafts. Had shafts re hard chromed at a Maryborough mob too, but they seem to have faded away.
To annoy me more, I pulled out the old Koni 7610s that were on it from 91 to 2003, no wear or corrosion where the seals worked on them, just wear on one shaft where it goes into the top mounting block.
Started to undo the gland nut on one Ikon but my pin spanner started to bend; this is a pin spanner that's successfully disassembled the old Koni's twice. Will have to make a pin spanner from some 1/4" plate scrap I've got with pins from 4mm drill bits I think if I want to continue with the strip down.
Got a firm price on replacement damper bodies from Ikon, just under $600 including freight for black painted ones.
Still scratching my head, consulting with the dog pack about who's prepared to eat less for the next 3 months.

Hilly likes this post

tussuck
7 months

Quoting obisteve on 12 May 2025 07:08 AM
After leaving the old Ikon 7610s soaking in a bucket of strong detergent for a couple of days then pressure wasing them, I pulled out my bushies shock spring compressor and started stripping them. Found a problem immediately, corrosion and probably wear in the Hard chrome on both shock shafts, probably the cause of the leaking seals. Now I could see how much it cleans up with brass wire brushing and polishing with fine emery tape and reassemble with the new seals, see how long it lasts or go the next step up in the rebuild kits, new damper bodies already assembled onto the shafts and attachment eyes, about $425 a pair if I remember correctly. Didn't really want to spend that much, gonna think about it a bit more.

I use a pair of old brake disk rotors from the harley.... the hole in the middle is a perfect fit 99% of the time.

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obisteve
7 months

That's for the spring compressor tussuck? Great idea, pity I didn't think of it. Still, I had the formwork ply and the threaded rod sitting in the shed so it just cost a little bit of time.
So far it's handled old Girlings, Koni and Ikon 7610s and stock Evo Dyna shocks. Only drawback is because of the thickness of te ply, you have to compress the springs a bit more to release the collets or top retainer.
I'm only thinking about putting the Ikons back on back on for more comfort, the 45mm of shock travel of the current setup, stock Dyna dampers with Koni Sporty springs, isn't good enough for comfort on a Sporty. Could probably put a sprung saddle on it for less than that. Still head scratching.

Hilly
7 months

Just chucking this up as I was surprised at the price.

WideglidingNZ and obisteve like this post

obisteve
7 months

Good price for sure. Only heard good things about YSS products.

Steve L
7 months

I bought new YSS shocks for my Softail. I haven't fitted them yet but they look the part.

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51/52

What did you guys do on your bikes today?

What did you guys do on your bikes today?

Hilly

Stuart

speedzter

Stuart

speedzter

Stuart

Hilly

obisteve

obisteve

Hilly

obisteve

Hilly

speedzter

brucefxdl

obisteve

tussuck

obisteve

Hilly

obisteve

Steve L