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What did you guys do on your bikes today?

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  • 408
    408
    2 months
    Quoting Hilly on 10 Mar 2025 01:34 PMedited: 10 Mar 2025 08:33 PM

    I did some temp testing on the battery today, oil in the bag was at 107°c, pulled seat, battery was 35-40 depending on where I aimed the temp gun, sat the seat back on and let it heat soak for 10 minutes or so, rechecked and the hottest part of the battery I could get at was 53°c, some of the lithium batteries are 50 max, others are 60, I could see the oil getting quite a bit hotter at times so cutting it fine I'm thinking, reckon a HVT will have to do.


    So, after much ado, overthinking and sleeping on it I'm going to try the Predator PRL-12, it has temperature protection built in, meaning if the battery heat soaks past it's allowed temperature limit it will turn off so you can't damage it, its upper limit is 60°c.
    It also has overcharge and undercharge protection along with blue tooth connectivity so you can see what charge the battery has on your phone! Fancy but it's there, it's the one RJBatt were on about.
    It is a Lithium Iron Phosphate battery so it is much safer than the Lithium Ion types or so the story goes. $380 delivered, fingers crossed.


    The temperature protection would have been a 'must have' in Townsville, might still be useful on King Island.
  • 408
    408
    2 months
    Quoting 408 on 08 Mar 2025 07:00 AMedited: 08 Mar 2025 07:01 AM

    Still got the HVT-1 in the bike.
    The lithium is still sitting in the corner.
    I didn't check the voltage when I got it, but it sat in the corner for 2 months. I checked it a couple of weeks ago and it was 13.2v. Says you are right to wack it in the bike at 13v or top it up if under.
    I topped it up then and just checked it at 13.44v

    Quoting speedzter on 10 Mar 2025 08:41 AM

    Any plans on fitting the Lithium in the bike any time soon ?


    I grabbed the Lithium because it was on special.
    The HVT-1 is still going well and I wasn't inclined to pull it out but I am getting curious.
  • tussuck
    tussuck
    2 months
    Did some painting the other day and it was really annoying to find somewhere to rest the paintgun so printed out some brackets making sure they were a custom fit for my brand of guns. Came out really well in the end. Also printed some block risers for the bike which clip onto the frame and sit on the top of the jack unit. They help by keeping the bike level without having to shove 4x2 wood under the dam thing.
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  • Hilly
    Hilly
    2 months
    Printer is coming in handy, useful knickknacks that make life easier, it's the little things as they say 👍
  • Stuart
    Stuart
    1 month
    Made a routine job a pain in the arse last night.

    Changing the fork seals on the Dyna - sheared off one of the pinchbolts in the lower triple tree bracket nipping it up to hold the fork leg while removing the fork plug. Looking at the bolt, it appears to have been partially fractured for some time.

    I guess today I'll be removing the triple tree and heading to the workshop. Where I'm thinking I'll first try and remove it by drilling it out with a left-handed drill bit. And see where I end up.


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  • speedzter
    speedzter
    1 month
    Quoting Stuart on 25 Apr 2025 10:47 PM

    Made a routine job a pain in the arse last night.

    Changing the fork seals on the Dyna - sheared off one of the pinchbolts in the lower triple tree bracket nipping it up to hold the fork leg while removing the fork plug. Looking at the bolt, it appears to have been partially fractured for some time.

    I guess today I'll be removing the triple tree and heading to the workshop. Where I'm thinking I'll first try and remove it by drilling it out with a left-handed drill bit. And see where I end up.


    IMG_6100.jpg
    I'd consider it lucky you found it this way .
    Should be easy enough to remove.
    At the worst, just weld a nut on the end .

    Now is a good time to replace the other bolts !

  • Stuart
    Stuart
    1 month
    Quoting Stuart on 25 Apr 2025 10:47 PM

    Made a routine job a pain in the arse last night.

    Changing the fork seals on the Dyna - sheared off one of the pinchbolts in the lower triple tree bracket nipping it up to hold the fork leg while removing the fork plug. Looking at the bolt, it appears to have been partially fractured for some time.

    I guess today I'll be removing the triple tree and heading to the workshop. Where I'm thinking I'll first try and remove it by drilling it out with a left-handed drill bit. And see where I end up.


    IMG_6100.jpg
    Quoting speedzter on 26 Apr 2025 12:44 AM

    I'd consider it lucky you found it this way .
    Should be easy enough to remove.
    At the worst, just weld a nut on the end .

    Now is a good time to replace the other bolts !

    No room to weld a nut on - or to get a socket in there even if I could :-(

    Definitely going over the other bolts :-)


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  • speedzter
    speedzter
    1 month
    If you remove the chrome cover under the headlight, you may be able to get to the broken bolt from the front ?
    You can use a standard drill, and a square shank bolt remover .

  • Stuart
    Stuart
    1 month
    Quoting speedzter on 26 Apr 2025 11:35 PMedited: 26 Apr 2025 11:40 PM

    If you remove the chrome cover under the headlight, you may be able to get to the broken bolt from the front ?
    You can use a standard drill, and a square shank bolt remover .

    You are correct :-)

    Wound straight out as I was drilling it.

    I'd like to think I would have realised this if I had gone ahead with removing the trees - though I was already thinking 3 steps ahead, so maybe not.

    The bolt on the other fork looks fine - but I will replace it anyway.

    Thank you.
  • Hilly
    Hilly
    1 month
    Hope this as close as the bike gets to a wallaby, needs a wash.......
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  • obisteve
    obisteve
    22 days ago
    Got the Ikon shock rebuild kit today, managed to bicycle the 14km round trip to the post office and back -- no mail delivery here.
    Kit is 4 O rings and 2 oil seals. $68 and $20 postage from Albury.
    In the pic, the one in the sealed bag is the Ikon kit, the stuff in the old zip lock is a rebuild kit for the Koni's that were on the Sporty before the Ikons. No good putting a rebuild kit of seals in a shock that's had the circlip that holds the top shock eye assembly to the shaft fret on the shaft, wear the shaft excessively then break up.
    Just by eye, it looks like the parts are identical, I'll run the verniers over them tomorrow in better light and see. 
    I know that there are some differences between the Dutch originals and the Oz made product; the circlip that holds the top eye assembly to the shaft is redesigned and much stronger for one thing.
    I had read on the internet (so it must be true) that the seal profile is different. I'll know tomorrow.
    I'll also measure the O rings and check if they're standard industrial parts if anyone with Ikons wants to pursue cheaper rebuild options.

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  • obisteve
    obisteve
    19 days ago
    After leaving the old Ikon 7610s soaking in a bucket of strong detergent  for a couple of days then pressure wasing them, I pulled out my bushies shock spring compressor and started stripping them. Found a problem immediately, corrosion and probably wear in the Hard chrome on both shock shafts, probably the cause of the leaking seals. Now I could see how much it cleans up with brass wire brushing and polishing with fine emery tape and reassemble with the new seals, see how long it lasts or go the next step up in the rebuild kits, new damper bodies already assembled onto the shafts and attachment eyes, about $425 a pair if I remember correctly. Didn't really want to spend that much, gonna think about it a bit more.


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  • Hilly
    Hilly
    19 days ago
    I know you know so this is just me reminding you that you know, you know 😁
  • obisteve
    obisteve
    18 days ago
    Quoting Hilly on 12 May 2025 07:48 AM

    I know you know so this is just me reminding you that you know, you know 😁

    And yeah, I do know, but I've been guilty before of covering up similar damage on some Norton forks with Devcon metal filled epoxy, taking it back with fine emery tape. Lasted another 5 years. You can get away with a bit more when you can hide it under fork gaiters.
    It was hard to get Norton spares in Brisbane for a while in the late 70's until BJs opened up and the international Norton Owners Club got its spares scheme together.
  • Hilly
    Hilly
    18 days ago
    Fork seals I could see myself having a crack if I had to but rear shocks are under a bit more duress in the sealing side of things, only one way to find out for sure though.
  • speedzter
    speedzter
    18 days ago
    Check in with RAD hard chroming .
    You never know , maybe a cheaper option to re-plate the shafts .
  • brucefxdl
    brucefxdl
    18 days ago
    Quoting speedzter on 13 May 2025 07:27 AM

    Check in with RAD hard chroming .

    You never know , maybe a cheaper option to re-plate the shafts .

    RAD were who i was thinking of,havent had anything done by them ,but have a pair of forks to do. i believe they do a good job.
  • obisteve
    obisteve
    17 days ago
    I've been thinking of RAD too and having them centreless grind and replate the shafts. Had shafts re hard chromed at a Maryborough mob too, but they seem to have faded away.
    To annoy me more, I pulled out the old Koni 7610s that were on it from 91 to 2003, no wear or corrosion where the seals worked on them, just wear on one shaft where it goes into the top mounting block.
    Started to undo the gland nut on one Ikon but my pin spanner started to bend; this is a pin spanner that's successfully disassembled the old Koni's twice. Will have to make a pin spanner from some 1/4" plate scrap I've got with pins from 4mm drill bits I think if I want to continue with the strip down.
    Got a firm price on replacement damper bodies from Ikon, just under $600 including freight for black painted ones.
    Still scratching my head, consulting with the dog pack about who's prepared to eat less for the next 3 months.
  • tussuck
    tussuck
    17 days ago
    Quoting obisteve on 12 May 2025 07:08 AM

    After leaving the old Ikon 7610s soaking in a bucket of strong detergent  for a couple of days then pressure wasing them, I pulled out my bushies shock spring compressor and started stripping them. Found a problem immediately, corrosion and probably wear in the Hard chrome on both shock shafts, probably the cause of the leaking seals. Now I could see how much it cleans up with brass wire brushing and polishing with fine emery tape and reassemble with the new seals, see how long it lasts or go the next step up in the rebuild kits, new damper bodies already assembled onto the shafts and attachment eyes, about $425 a pair if I remember correctly. Didn't really want to spend that much, gonna think about it a bit more.



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    I use a pair of old brake disk rotors from the harley.... the hole in the middle is a perfect fit 99% of the time.
  • obisteve
    obisteve
    16 days ago
    That's for the spring compressor tussuck? Great idea, pity I didn't think of it. Still, I had the formwork ply and the threaded rod sitting in the shed so it just cost a little bit of time.
    So far it's handled old Girlings, Koni and Ikon 7610s and stock Evo Dyna shocks. Only drawback is because of the thickness of te ply, you have to compress the springs a bit more to release the collets or top retainer.
    I'm only thinking about putting the Ikons back on back on for more comfort, the 45mm of shock travel of the current setup, stock Dyna dampers with Koni Sporty springs, isn't good enough for comfort on a Sporty. Could probably put a sprung saddle on it for less than that. Still head scratching.

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