It's sad to say, but the industry in this country is becoming poorly represented by car and motorcycle dyno shops that prey on uninformed people by producing false results to boost their reputations in the public sector in order to lure in more unsuspecting customers.

 Industry standard dyno's for motorcycles when properly calibrated and given correct  atmospheric info are designed to give correct horsepower and torque figures when bikes are run at full throttle in fourth gear when the relationship between engine and rear wheel are at the optimum ratio for for producing these figures accurately.

Unfortunately  more and more shops are choosing to do fudge their dyno results and sell unsuspecting customers into believing they can make far more power than they really do.

 

 The most common practice is to do the final power run in top gear, putting the motor under excessive load for a much longer period of time greatly increasing the chance of failure.  

 This is the one to watch out for and the easiest one to detect, other ways include changing the dyno software config files telling it the drum weight is heavier and fooling it into thinking the bike has more power because it accelerated a a heavier mass drum in a shorter time period or altering the ambient temperature that the dyno sees during the run.

 Fact is the difference between a fourth gear run and a top gear run can be as much as 20 horsepower! If you want to find out the truth there are several quarter mile speed calculators online that you can use for reference then have some fun one day go out to your local dragstrip and have a couple of runs, the black top dyno Never Lies and regardless of your riding ability the terminal speed at the end is an irrefutable indication of your true horsepower. I suspect a few people may be disappointed after putting this to the test and discovering they have been deceived.

 

 When laid bare this is plain dishonesty designed to relieve you of your money based on deception and if you're ok with that you will happily walk away believing that you got what you paid for.

 While I won't make any recommendations good or bad I will go as far as to say it pays to do some due diligence and find a shop that is known to have good integrity and honesty with their customers, I'd rather have 125 real horsepower than 140 imaginary ones  any day of the week. 

Another little tip if you have had a fresh engine built, then do yourself a favour and  put some run in miles on it before going to Dyno tuning, the tightness, engine sealage, frictional losses and heat generation in a new engine are completely different to an engine that has some miles on it therefore the fuel requirements will change as the motor loosens up after some miles the and the tune-up requirements will also change leaving you with a less than perfect end result.  Hopefully this will help some people when it comes to having a little knowledge about what they can expect from the aftermarket engine and dyno industry; if in doubt there's always that old adage "if it sounds too good to be true..."

With a fresh engine, once the rings are bedded in, change the oil and let it eat. Everything else in the engine runs on a film of oil and really shouldn't "loosen up".