Thanks Speedzter and yes it all works surprisingly well with these cams. I know for sure that he used my original heads with beehive valve springs,new exhaust valves but I don’t know what head gasket he used.The mate that did the last dyno runs took it for a spin and he was impressed with the low to midrange. Also he moved the needle clip back to the original mid position and it still pinged its tits off through the gears wot.I have that clip position set one position leaner now which is where the builder had it to improve my cruise economy. I’ll get a hot comp test done soon and see what I’ve got. Im in Tassie,do know of any competent tuners down this way?

Hi Hoody just getting back to you with my hot comp test figures showing 180 psi on the front and 175 on the rear. Test was done at outside temp 20c with a repco tester. I have played with the dials on my dtt ignition and have found initial 0 slope 2 with multi spark turned off by far the best settings I’ve tried so far regarding overall performance and detonation. I’ve done 16500km on this 103 now and does use some oil between changes but I’ve discovered the wiseco forged pistons and rings I ordered have maybe 2 thou piston to skirt clearance and this may account for this. If I’d listened to the builder and went with cast 103 pistons I may not have had this problem. Cylinder to skirt I mean.

Gday speedster getting back with my comp testing , 180 psi front cylinder and 175 rear psi. A little difference, done 16500 km on this motor now and it uses some oil between changes bearing in mind that I opted for wiseco forged flattops and I’ve only recently discovered these run about 2 thou clearance cylinder to skirt. May account for that. Spark knock has settled heaps on the dtt at initial 0 slope 2 , pulls well.

Seems to run unusually well down low for 9.6 flat top pistons with that 211 cam. 

Thanks fatbat it does and it’s very smooth as well. Must be a good combo with my stock head but not sure what deck height I have. Not that I understand much about that.

Some of the above info is def good to look into and consider to optimise what you have but if it’s running well and feels good when you’re riding it, I wouldn’t sweat too much. Enjoy your nice new build 

Thanks fatbat . Yes I’ll see how it goes for a while and if I have more issues with knock I’ll definitely take the advice given. Not sure if I can locate someone with the dtt  software or how much this gear is if I purchased. Anyway thanks and stay tuned👍🏼

might be talking right out of line here, but adding 131cc to a motor and only going up 7.5 in the main jet size seems to be a bit small.

Thanks drod I’m not to sure about that bigger jump in jet size. I’ll find a good tuner soon and see what goes. And the motor size went from 1450cc to 1690 cc = 240 cc

sorry. measured 95 to 103 not 88 to 103. my bad. 

Ok thanks speedzter and regarding low to mid throttle tuning being in the lean side I guess I could try a richer needle. I have the needle raised one clip position at the moment so I could put that back to the central position but it still pinged before even in that position. Don’t suppose it could have been blow by from excessive clearances causing the detonation?

I am not sure of the surprise about the 211 cam performing well.I would expect 9.8 comp would be about perfect with a 45 deg inlet close. Comp readings seem to line up with that as well. One assumes you are using good petrol ie: not 91. It will be low to mid MAP reading ignition settings I reckon. If you hold it flat out it stops pinging right? 

Lushy, it’s always good to read your posts and learn but curious about your thoughts on optimal street performance relative to cylinder fill given a CR of 9.8 and a cam intake close of 45 degrees. No doubt the 211 cam will come on well once the cylinder is filled and the intake is closed but I was surprised it made relatively good torque at low rpm when the intake is still open (with compression relatively low)

If indeed the comp is 9.8, ( and it probably is by the CCP number)  then that would work fine with 211. The dip in his torque curve after the initial burst of torque is because of a combination of the 2 into 1 exh and the early exh open of the 211. Mr Hood told me years ago a good guide for street motors ( TC ) is 55deg close for 10.5 :1, 50 deg close for 10:1 and 45 for 9.5:1. There is wiggle room depending on the combo and engine size, but it is a good guide.  There is a popular trend to use very short duration cams with higher comp and this looks good on the dyno sheet, but who holds their engine WIDE OPEN at 2200rpm to use the 115tqs available with a high cylinder pressure combo. Better be kind to the engine and have it make good usable power through a wide range and be much less sensitive to heat. Still that is just my opinion. If the OP had over 10:1 with the 211, he would have all sorts of bother.

Thanks Lushy I’m glad you explained about this cam / comp combo being pretty well spot on. It is making sense to me now.Yes this exhaust v&h pro pipe had the same dip on the old motor with the se 203 cams.I have a mikuni 42 with all stock jetting as suggested by Hoody. The dtt is working good at the moment on initial 0 and advance 2. I always run 98 Ron now. I could try advancing the slope a bit maybe.

At the risk of getting sucked into a jetting war, I would put a 165 main in it to be safe, this is not your pinging issue though. If you get the programmer as suggested you will get a better ign curve.

Thanks Lushy, I suppose you have to purchase the software direct from Kevin Baxter of dtt in the states and I don’t have a laptop. On the hunt for someone who can set it up for me. Regarding the 2into1 exhaust with the torque dip, I still have the stock headers and I wonder if these would help smooth it out? Cheers.

Do you actually notice the torque dip when riding? 

No Lushy it’s not that noticeable.