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Clear coating lower fork sliders ?

  • Adam76
    Adam76
    3 years ago
    Hey all, 
    Going to get my fork lowers polished up and want to re-coat them with some type of clear coat like they come from the factory... anyone know what type of clear coat I need to use and has anyone had any success doing this without it cracking and peeling off in 6 months? 
    Thanks. 
  • binnsy
    binnsy
    3 years ago
    I polished mine up with wet and dry and they came up a treat.  Didn't Bother with another plastic type coating as it in my opinion would just get damaged again.  
    I just gave them a polish with purple polish or Autosol every so often and they stayed looking as good as the day i polished them up.  Mine did look like yours before I did them too.  

  • Far Canal
    Far Canal
    3 years ago
    If you do polish them and then want to clear coat them, I'd go for a 2 pac clear coat after thoroughly washing with an automotive paint "prepwash" wax and grease remover.
    2 pac clear coat is available in a rattle can like the one pictured and does a good job. Just be careful not to breathe it in or you will die. A quality mask with a charcoal filter is a good defence.

  • Adam76
    Adam76
    3 years ago
    Quoting binnsy on 12 May 2021 12:59 AMedited: 12 May 2021 01:02 AM

    I polished mine up with wet and dry and they came up a treat.  Didn't Bother with another plastic type coating as it in my opinion would just get damaged again.  

    I just gave them a polish with purple polish or Autosol every so often and they stayed looking as good as the day i polished them up.  Mine did look like yours before I did them too.  

    Thanks binnsy,  they look Bette than new mate. 
    Cheers for the tips. 
  • Adam76
    Adam76
    3 years ago
    Quoting Far Canal on 12 May 2021 09:42 AM

    If you do polish them and then want to clear coat them, I'd go for a 2 pac clear coat after thoroughly washing with an automotive paint "prepwash" wax and grease remover.
    2 pac clear coat is available in a rattle can like the one pictured and does a good job. Just be careful not to breathe it in or you will die. A quality mask with a charcoal filter is a good defence.

    Thanks, I also just got told by an auto paint shop that 2 Pac clear is the way to go with clear coat on aluminum or metal. 

    May not end up clear coating if after I've restored then and polished them up,  they might only need a polish once in a while to keep them looking good.
    Cheers
  • Krash Kinkade
    Krash Kinkade
    3 years ago
    Quoting Far Canal on 12 May 2021 09:42 AM

    If you do polish them and then want to clear coat them, I'd go for a 2 pac clear coat after thoroughly washing with an automotive paint "prepwash" wax and grease remover.
    2 pac clear coat is available in a rattle can like the one pictured and does a good job. Just be careful not to breathe it in or you will die. A quality mask with a charcoal filter is a good defence.

    Quoting Adam76 on 13 May 2021 03:43 AM

    Thanks, I also just got told by an auto paint shop that 2 Pac clear is the way to go with clear coat on aluminum or metal. 


    May not end up clear coating if after I've restored then and polished them up,  they might only need a polish once in a while to keep them looking good.
    Cheers

    Adam76 , I have always just polished, as any type of coating will eventually chip ( if you ride a lot.
    Polishing them not hard & if do it regularly the shine will beat any painted finish. if they are in bad shape to start with, as has been mentioned wet & dry , then polish.
  • DocGreen
    DocGreen
    3 years ago
    agree with Krash here, I wrapped my lowers before doing Tassie and served their purpose but started to lift on the edges (admittedly it was my first crack at doing this) so ended up removing it. Got the usual stone chips in the factory clear coating and took the opportunity while changing fork oil to polish them up - wet and dry and reducing grit size and final polish, been like this for about a year and easy to keep clean.
    Worth the small effort, especially if  forks removed. I didn't get carried away and try and remove the casting texture around the brake caliper mounts or reflectors.

    cheers

    Doc
  • evo94
    evo94
    3 years ago
    i done as Binnsy described 15 odd years ago on mine, & again as he described, a periodic polish up as one would do with any other part of the bike, & theyr still sweet as.....forget about recoating
  • crowster69
    crowster69
    3 years ago
    Cerakote do a clear.Its tough stuff.i just did some fork lowers after vapour blasting on another project im doing.
  • Adam76
    Adam76
    3 years ago
    Quoting crowster69 on 14 May 2021 06:33 AMedited: 14 May 2021 06:44 AM

    Cerakote do a clear.Its tough stuff.i just did some fork lowers after vapour blasting on another project im doing.

    Nice. They came up alright. Did you do the cerakote yourself Crowster? Or a paint shop?

    I don't think it's cheap from what I can remember, might end up just cleaning them up with wet n dry and polishing them up.

    Cheers
  • Smokey61
    Smokey61
    3 years ago
    400, 800, 1200, 2000 grit wet & dry followed by final polish with a green scotchbrite pad.

    This was first polish in 2018, right leg done. Gave it a polish again with scotchbrite only in 2020. 




  • Soapbox2627
    Soapbox2627
    3 years ago
    good job Smokie, 

    my black lowers would never come up like that
  • Adam76
    Adam76
    3 years ago
    Nice work Smokie, they look awesome. 👍

    What do you mean by polish with a scotch brite pad? 
    Cheers
  • Smokey61
    Smokey61
    3 years ago
    Quoting Adam76 on 02 Jul 2021 12:46 AMedited: 02 Jul 2021 12:47 AM

    Nice work Smokie, they look awesome. 👍


    What do you mean by polish with a scotch brite pad? 
    Cheers

    Just use it horizontally, keep it perpendicular to the leg, soapy water, keep it wet. try and keep even pressure all around. 

    If you're really committed, you could pull the legs and put them in a lathe and scotchbrite 'em that way...