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Comp Nut

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  • 90FXSTC
    90FXSTC
    4 years ago
    Hi all, 
    Newbie here so have mercy. Need to get the comp nut off. I bought a 1.5" impact socket with 0.5" drive and a 600mm breaker bar for the task. The nut is really shallow without much for the socket to grab onto. Looks like a fast way to sheer the nut and then I'll be in all sorts. Plan B is to hire an electric impact gun and use that. Either way I'm guessing I only get one chance at it before I sheer it to buggery so I've got to get it right. Any thoughts from the seasoned vets? All input appreciated..
  • perthhog
    perthhog
    4 years ago
    Impact gun electric or air  , you may need to Jam the comp with a block wood or nylon chopping board 
    To help assist  comp nut   , if you need to remove clutch basket  that un does clockwise  L,H,t 
    Both will probably have lock tight on them  make sure you torque them back up to spec with lock tight 
  • 90FXSTC
    90FXSTC
    4 years ago
    Also looks like someone else has already chewed on it a little bit. Not sure how bad this is. Pic to demonstrate..

    IMG_7994.JPG
  • perthhog
    perthhog
    4 years ago
    Doesn’t look to bad but the bolts do stretch when they have been off a lot or over tighten
    Which you can tell when removed  so I have found 
  • speedzter
    speedzter
    4 years ago
    something else that helps is to machine the socket face flat. (you could use a grinder if careful )


    socket flat.JPG
  • perthhog
    perthhog
    4 years ago
    It’s a nut  internal thread
  • perthhog
    perthhog
    4 years ago
    Yep like HD head bolts but the comp is called a nut 
  • 90FXSTC
    90FXSTC
    4 years ago
    Hey Perthhog, thanks for the input, yeah Comp Nut; you're correct. Technique is crucial? As a one-man operation I'll need one hand holding the socket on and the other leaning against the cheat bar you reckon? Makes me nervous because the 1.5" socket already has 0.5mm play on the nut, it's not 100% snug. Maybe I should buy a 38mm metric socket? It could be a Zodiac or Baileys comp on there with a Chinese metric size?
  • 90FXSTC
    90FXSTC
    4 years ago
    Quoting speedzter on 09 Aug 2020 12:54 AMedited: 09 Aug 2020 01:02 AM

    something else that helps is to machine the socket face flat. (you could use a grinder if careful )


    socket flat.JPG
    Hey speedzter, thanks but what kind of cutting wheel would cut through this bad boy? How did you do it?

    IMG_8012.JPG
  • brucefxdl
    brucefxdl
    4 years ago
    use an ultra thin cut off disc,it will cut that easy,clamp a socket extension in a vise then fit the socket,it will hold securely then.you will have better success using a good air impact gun on that.inpact sockets are single hex,so they hold well under load [ providing they are the correct size].
  • steelo
    steelo
    4 years ago
    Put the socket in a drill and cut / machine it while it is turning. That way you can just rest the disk against the side / face of the socket. You could even use a flap disk in another drill / grinder. I guess you only want to take the rounded edge off. 
  • wadewilson
    wadewilson
    4 years ago
    90,

    Where are you? If you are in the Adelaide area I would be more than happy to give it a quick skim in the lathe for you.

    Cheers,

    Wade
  • 90FXSTC
    90FXSTC
    4 years ago
    Quoting wadewilson on 09 Aug 2020 11:08 PM

    90,

    Where are you? If you are in the Adelaide area I would be more than happy to give it a quick skim in the lathe for you.

    Cheers,

    Wade

    Hi Wade,
    Very much appreciate the offer but I'm in Sydney..
  • Hoodeng
    Hoodeng
    4 years ago
    Do not use an impact wrench it will kick the crank out of true.

    Use a sprag plate between the front sprocket and clutch hub, 25mm x 6mm thick x 247mm long with the ends radiused fitted diagonally, this will lock the primary drive without placing undue strain on parts, blocks of wood, rags, wedges all place undue stress on parts.
    A flat face single hex 3/4 drive socket will work, even a double hex works fine, as you undo the nut you will feel the compesator cam out then stop, a good nudge is pretty much all it takes after that [ i have had to use a pipe extension in he past] ,,,, as long as the previous fitter has not drowned it in Loctite.
    I have seen bars welded on nuts to remove them after someone has damaged the hex, worse still they grounded the welder on the frame and welded on the nut,,,arc burned all the bearings in  the motor.
  • 90FXSTC
    90FXSTC
    4 years ago
    Hi Hoodeng,
    Thanks for the input. Throwing the crank out of true does not sound good all, I want to avoid that so I might have to pass on the electric impact gun which was supposed to be my easy way out. I dont know what a sprag plate is so I googled it and attached a pic. Not sure how I can immobilise both the Comp and Clutch sprockets with it so I will have to look into this some more...
  • 90FXSTC
    90FXSTC
    4 years ago
    What does anyone think about using a 1.5" ring spanner? Ring spanners are more secure than sockets, right? And less likely to damage the hex? 
  • Soapbox2627
    Soapbox2627
    4 years ago
    Quoting 90FXSTC on 10 Aug 2020 05:22 AM

    What does anyone think about using a 1.5" ring spanner? Ring spanners are more secure than sockets, right? And less likely to damage the hex? 

    not sure of more secure, could be the difference between a 6 point and 12 point sockets
  • Hoodeng
    Hoodeng
    4 years ago

    Pictured is how a sprag bar looks when installed, what it does, it uses the top run of the chain to stop rotation.
    The two at the bottom are for Sportster and late big twin.
    I have not tried ring spanners, worse i have had has needed a fork leg over the 3/4" sliding T bar.
    DSC01835.JPG
  • brucefxdl
    brucefxdl
    4 years ago
    Quoting Hoodeng on 10 Aug 2020 12:25 AM

    Do not use an impact wrench it will kick the crank out of true.

    Use a sprag plate between the front sprocket and clutch hub, 25mm x 6mm thick x 247mm long with the ends radiused fitted diagonally, this will lock the primary drive without placing undue strain on parts, blocks of wood, rags, wedges all place undue stress on parts.
    A flat face single hex 3/4 drive socket will work, even a double hex works fine, as you undo the nut you will feel the compesator cam out then stop, a good nudge is pretty much all it takes after that [ i have had to use a pipe extension in he past] ,,,, as long as the previous fitter has not drowned it in Loctite.
    I have seen bars welded on nuts to remove them after someone has damaged the hex, worse still they grounded the welder on the frame and welded on the nut,,,arc burned all the bearings in  the motor.

    i take it then that the crank pin is not that tight in the fly wheels,explains why excess runout occurrs.learn something new everyday.cheers
  • 90FXSTC
    90FXSTC
    4 years ago
    Ah sprag bar between the 2 cogs, gotcha. I tried 2 x 4 wood and a broom handle in the same position. Just got chewed up...
    I've also noticed now when I'm applying force on the breaker bar that the ramps (?) (the steel curves) are coming together. The outer one (closest to me) turning onto and clashing with the inner one (which is stationary). Is this normal? The outer one connected to the Compensator (which I'm turning by the nut) and the inner one connected to the crank (which is held fast by the wood block at the sprocket) right?


    IMG_8031.PNG
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