Hey gents, 

Have you an aftermarket tuner?  Had any tune work lately?  I read on here ages ago about auto decompression sometimes getting accidentally turned off. 

Hey Steelo, I’ve got a screamin Eagle super tuner pro, I haven’t noticed anything about auto decomp on the program so I’ll check that out, also I checked the battery voltage while I had it hooked up to the tuner and it was 11.40 while the ignition was on and 13.50 while running. 

The battery is fucked. Put in another new battery. Save yourself a headfuck.

I always use a trickle charger which makes maintaining a battery easy as.

Before you invest in new battery. Jump it with another ie 2 batteries.

He said the battery is 5 months old.

Don’t be defensive bb. Wasn’t being critical. Might just need another can of soda in the Mr. Fusion Home Energy Reactor. 

So just because I am a dirty arsed old fitter you think youre better than me do you steelo?

Haha. Yes. 

Whats in your fukin portfolio?   What do you do for a fukin job?

Cheers guys, I’ve ridden to work today and rode it around town yesterday, stopping and starting it a few times even while cold to see if it would play up but its going like clockwork... my uneducated theory is because of the higher compression and a standard cca battery, perhaps the corrosion on the terminals might have been just enough to slow it up and prevent it from starting. As I said previously, putting it on the charger shows just a cunt hair off of full charge so it seems like unless it’s at 100% charge it doesn’t want to turn over. 

Ok guys, still having dramas, bike didn’t start again on Monday morning. Oddly enough before I put the battery on charge that afternoon I thought I’d try it again and the fucken thing fires right up... head fuck alright. 

Gee its hard to get good help these days  np.  

Cheers beagle, I’ll set some alarms and do just that. Will be a long night but I’m sure that will answer my question. 

if you have a reliable [ trusting ] shop near by,take the battery in and have it load tested, a good quality load tester should give a good indication to how the battery is, have it well charged before going in.generally speaking , 13.7 to 14.5 volts is some where to what you need while running,of course higher than 14 v will be better,anything over 14.5-6 v could lead to overcharging and cook a cell.battery test is the quickest/ cheapest first test.cheers.

Cheers Bruce, I’m going to get it tested to rule it out but it’s not even 6 months old... it’s a Power AGM battery which is a brand I’ve never heard of but the bloke who sold it to me reckons they’re the same as SSB which I thought was decent from my experience working in a bike shop but talking to another ‘expert’ I was told that while they’re Australian owned they’re made in China and they’re just cheap rubbish. 

Hmmmmmmm,   the plot thickens.

Checking the voltage periodically off the battery won't tell you anything. You need to check if amps are being or if you have parasitic loss.

The results you've provided seem about right. 12.x at battery is good.