I've searched the interwebs high and low without an answer.

Can someone tell me if the following Simkins bearings will fit my front 3/4" axle. 

Bloke behind the counter said "no worries mate, they'll fit".

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-classic-models/1310804-wheel-bearings.html

And good question too...My 86 is due for a set as well.

Just used a set of these in my back wheel for an 84 FXWG

I see they are different to your numbers. On the front of the packet, but the same on the side.?

You'd think a bearing shop oughta know.

Did you not take in the ones you removed when buying yours?.

Beware also some of these bearings may need to be shimmed, so look out for shims when you take them out. Thankfully my rear ones did not need shims.

No mate, thought I'd grab them first. Get the job done quicker. 

I'll be checking for shims and such. 

Did not worry about shimming mine.

There were no shims in there for the same bearings beforehand so cant really see why you'd have to for new ones.

"Motor Head tussuck
05 Feb 2020 10:06 PM
Yep, and I normally do that dry (ie not grease packed) as I find it too hard to get a good reading once the grease is in.  Is that nromal or just me? "

That is what I was told by the spare parts guru that I know Tussuck ,so it is not just you. You are probably spot on.

Beats me how you are meant to do this though.

Where are the shims meant to go?

If you could extrapolate John R, that would be most interesting for me and I guess Justincase.

Tell me if Im tellin you how to suck eggs, but here is a quick explanation.

Inside your wheel hub, in between your  bearings is a spacer.

If this spacer isnt there, when you tighten your axle, it will crush the bearings into the races and they'll be fucked in no time.

Because Timkens use a press in race, there is two options to avoid the bearings being crushed.

First option is an internal spacer that comes in different sizes (Can be marked by colour bands). Here are some examples. You can see they're specific, but slightly different sizes. This lets you set the correct amount of play (so the bearings arent crushed, but also arent too loose) For this, you would need to have a bunch handy.

https://www.easyr.com.au/wheel-hub-partctr-spacer-orn-4.420-long-use-same-c

https://www.easyr.com.au/wheel-hub-partctr-spacer-wh-4.448-long-use-same-co~300304

https://www.easyr.com.au/wheel-hub-partctr-spacer-yel-4.434-long-use-same-c~300303

Second option is a set length spacer, and then the use of shims at one end of the bearing (doesnt matter which) to get the correct length.

Here are some of the shims. I was lucky enough to borrow different packet sizes from a local indy, and just pay him for the ones I ended up needing.

https://www.easyr.com.au/shim-wheel-brg-0.032-flh82-99-most92-99-pk10

https://www.easyr.com.au/shim-wheel-brg-0.016-flh82-99-most92-99-pk10

https://www.easyr.com.au/shim-wheel-brg-0.008-flh82-99-most92-99-pk10

The process can either be done properly with a dial indicator, or you can rough it. Just chuck the wheel in a vice, put the axle through with all the spacers, shims etc as if its going on the bike, use a bigger spacer on one end so that when you tighten the axle nut it actually torques the bearings, then you give it a tug and pull, and a bit of a spin. You want it to spin without binding, and ideally feel a little bit of play so you know the bearings arent getting crushed.

Thanks John,

But if the recess the outer race sits in (on the hub) is machined with a definite stop  on both sides of the hub (you know, you press,hammer in that outer race and it just cant go further) and the spacer that goes between the inner rollers is made to the right length from the factory then is there really a need to do it?.

Great explanations John, thanks.

Gotta say it seems to be a complicated way of installing wheel bearings compared to other brand bikes whose wheel bearings (ball type) just tap in to the stopped recess with no need for shimming just re-use the spacer. It would make it a hassle to replace buggered bearings if you were stuck in some one horse town out woop woop way.

Also, care needs to be taken when seating sealed bearings as the same concept applies.

Not seated far enough and the bearings will run on the inside edge of the bearing. Seated fully (which Is what most people do as they assume the hub will stop it at the right spot) and the balls will rub on the outside of the bearing.

Same thing, spacer shouldn't be too loose, but it also should be able to be wiggled and moved a bit.

ALSO, the inner bearing race can be a bugger to remove.  If your struggling then weld a bead around the bearing surface; as when it cools it contracts and pulls the race with it - they then just tap out without an issue.