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Carby/air filter query.
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Carby/air filter query.
Far Canal
5 years ago
Running a standard HD carby with a S&S air filter.
The S&S unit has an added tube section that goes between it and the carby. It shifts the air filter housing outwards by 38mm moving the housing in a really bad position to bend your leg around to reach the footpeg and brake pedal.
Wondering why this extension is there?, perhaps it is a performance thing.
John.R
5 years ago
Looks like a ghetto homemade adaptor to me.
I run the same setup (cv40 w/ S&S AC) and its nothing like that lol
Far Canal
5 years ago
Quoting John.R on 26 Dec 2019 05:51 AM
Looks like a ghetto homemade adaptor to me.
I run the same setup (cv40 w/ S&S AC) and its nothing like that lol
Adaptor for what?
It looks well made to me with a very nice finish. Don't reckon some one has home made it.
Got a picture of your,
I run the same setup (cv40 w/ S&S AC) and its nothing like that lol.
Be interested to see it.
Cheers
John.R
5 years ago
Adaptor to allow S&S style air filters to be bolted to Keihin Carbies, which use a different pattern. One side uses Keihin gasket, other uses S&S.
Looks like a home made job to me because it just looks like plate steel and roundstock thick enough to accomodate the bolt pattern. Wouldnt take long to make with a lathe and drill press.
As for the length, my guess is for clearance, either tank engine mounts, or could be dependent on what manifold they used (or made it for)
Mine just uses a normal slim cast style adaptor like this. Theres all kinds of adaptors.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/KILLER-MOTORCYCLE-PRODUCTS-AIR-CLEANER-ADAPTER-FITS-HARLEY-CV40-44MM-TO-S-S-/271623664099
John.R
5 years ago
I also use the stock backing plate, another reason your current one looks homemade.
Far Canal
5 years ago
Thanks John.
Maybe it is for tank clearance, will check that when the tanks are back on.
Not using CV carbs on this bike, it has the earlier type. Also the "adapter" has exactly the same hole pattern as the S&S base plate so the plate will fit straight onto the carb without it.
Was wondering if perhaps it was some type of velocity stack or similar thing.
A pic from the other side of the plate. Not home made.
Krash Kinkade
5 years ago
When I saw the back of baking plate, looked non stock S&S , but can see it is stock with some type adaptor ( that would not do much ) if it fits with that add on removed, do it!
S&S probably best filters for performance, made for HD's. ( these bent forward filter with a cone air cleaner don't look like they would add performance to me )
Hoodeng
5 years ago
What year/model is this on? S&S make air cleaner kits that include the backing plates for oem applications, 93-06 carburetted big twins are 17-0450,
84-89 Tillotson,Bendix ,Kehin 17-0108
check application of these part numbers first.
Cheers.
Far Canal
5 years ago
It's a 1984 wideglide.
You can see how far it sticks out in following picture.
I reckon without the adapter/extension/whatever it is, the air cleaner housing will still just fit under the tank. Will only have to get different bolts or possibly cut down the ones I have.
It's just got me a bit stumped why it was put on there in the first place.
tussuck
5 years ago
Someone has either tried for a ramjet effect or made a cheap and nasty adapter.
John.R
5 years ago
Take it off and see if notice a difference in performance?
Krash Kinkade
5 years ago
FC , I road a shovel for years, I had three different tank set up's. both 3 1/2 & 5 ( like you have ) & I ran an S&S carb with same filter. when you run with the 5 like you, was normal to have the the top edge of air cleaner to mark your tank. the way to do it is, take a file to top edge of outer cover, to give you more clearance. that adaptor won't help performance , but if it was at rear of the carb between carb and manifold & you also knew how to tune the carb, you might see a gain as gives more manifold volume. ( not worth trouble on a stock Shovel). Also if you ride it a lot, a good idea is to remove those bolts holding pipes to the heads & replace with studs & two nuts each with a lock washer between them. I road my shovel 1 million k's, sold it to a mate and he has ridden it around tassie up Queensland a few times. & it can still do quarter mile in 11's, with him on it. & still has same suds & two nuts & lock washer set up I used, just had to replace pipes a few times. ( still tappered end duels.) 98 cubic inch motor ( stock shovel heads )
Far Canal
5 years ago
Thanks for all the feedback.
Definitely going to remove that thing now, seeing that it is not a performance item.
Krash, I like the idea of putting two nuts on the exhaust to head. In the past I have been riding with blokes who were on shovels and have seen those single nuts go missing. In fact it was usually the shovels that consistently broke down.LOL.
Where would one be able to get a couple of longer studs to take double nuts?.
Krash Kinkade
5 years ago
Quoting Far Canal on 28 Dec 2019 11:27 PM
Thanks for all the feedback.
Definitely going to remove that thing now, seeing that it is not a performance item.
Krash, I like the idea of putting two nuts on the exhaust to head. In the past I have been riding with blokes who were on shovels and have seen those single nuts go missing. In fact it was usually the shovels that consistently broke down.LOL.
Where would one be able to get a couple of longer studs to take double nuts?.
the single bolt each pipe into the head, a lot over tighten when they go loose & pull the thread out ( or strip the thread ) what the stud does , is you put the stud in place of the bolts , leave the stud in all the time, then put one nut on, tension when motor cold put a lock washer on it then a second nut , hold first nut still with preferably a ring spanner & tighten second nut, then still holding first nut still, lock them together using second nut. this way you don't strip the thread. first time you go for a ride wait till next day , hold nut closest to head then unlock second nut retention first nut & repeat original instructions. then just periodically check once in a while. good luck with it.
Krash Kinkade
5 years ago
Quoting Far Canal on 28 Dec 2019 11:27 PM
Thanks for all the feedback.
Definitely going to remove that thing now, seeing that it is not a performance item.
Krash, I like the idea of putting two nuts on the exhaust to head. In the past I have been riding with blokes who were on shovels and have seen those single nuts go missing. In fact it was usually the shovels that consistently broke down.LOL.
Where would one be able to get a couple of longer studs to take double nuts?.
the single bolt each pipe into the head, a lot over tighten when they go loose & pull the thread out ( or strip the thread ) what the stud does , is you put the stud in place of the bolts , leave the stud in all the time, then put one nut on, tension when motor cold put a lock washer on it then a second nut , hold first nut still with preferably a ring spanner & tighten second nut, then still holding first nut still, lock them together using second nut. this way you don't strip the thread. first time you go for a ride wait till next day , hold nut closest to head then unlock second nut retention first nut & repeat original instructions. then just periodically check once in a while. good luck with it.
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