I'm assuming it regulates the voltage traveling throughout the bike?
Regulator/Rectifier. The regulator/rectifier on your motorcycle performs two functions. The rectifier portion converts the AC power from the alternator into DC power so that it can charge the battery. The regulator ensures that the voltage is delivered within certain limits, as not to damage the battery. So when thats fucked , like mine did twice i saw the volt guage hit 17 v several times
Now that you've explained that, I understand where you're coming from in regards to the strain on the regulator. What I'm trying to understand is the battery boiling?
It boils from over-charging because the regulator is not regulating anymore.
Ok lets numb it down a touch....if you put your/any battery on charge overnight in the morning the battery would be warmer to the touch than before the charge due to a chemical reaction inside the battery. The charger regulates the flow of charge to the battery in a very controlled way over a very specific voltage level. Now when that voltage is raised beyond the specific voltage, this is the function of the regulator rectifier on the bike, the temp inside the battery increases due to an increase OVER the controlled voltage and that chemical reaction increases causing the battery to get hotter and hotter, hence the boiling comment. Hope this helps
Yeah I'm with you now. So what you're saying is because the old regulator wasn't performing correctly it may have damaged the battery? Thus in turn putting a new battery in may reduce the chance of it happening again? Sorry mate I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed.
So where did this end up?
Step 1: measure voltage at battery when idling / revving up. Should not really exceed 14 volts and if your hitting 17 or higher then the regulator is toast.
Step 2: If at 17 volts and its been like this for a while and your having intermittent issues with a flat battery or starting then its 99% sure that your battery is now toast as well. Resist the urge to try and salvage it as that can quickly become a rabbit hole of grief (for $100 you can get a new one either on eBay or from a battery shop)
Step 3: If @ 17volts then replace the regulator AND make sure you test the outputs of the Stator to make sure its operating inside specs (they can put out 20-50volts AC when going and depending upon brand)
Double check ALL cables as well. A loose cable from Stator to Reg to Battery will fry a regulator as the spikes they cause are regulator killers. This include your main earths as well.
Picked the Slim up today and she's running fine Thanks for all the advice fellas. .
Glad you're up and running again MB, but what was the diagnosis & fix from the dealer.
It could be a few things, regs gone bad again, stator, faulty ignition switch, ignition switch plug loose, pins pulled back or wiring, loose battery cables, battery earth strap not earthing to bike because of powdercoat, might even be your taillight wiring has come adrift, got rubbed by the tyre and is shorting, probably a few others as well, throwing any codes?
Battery nearly 13V at stand still, and is pulling around 16.8V when cranked over GM.
Regs toast again, back to the dealer Bob.
I'm thinking wiring issue?
