Hi,

Where they hi tensile bolts/cap screws? Check markings on bolt head

Haven't had the bolts break, but a while ago a mates rh footpeg broke in half right on the pivot point as he put his weight on it to look over a centre rail. How he didn't come a croppa we both don't know. 

I woulld have the say factory Chinese steel (they look to be 8mm ish 1" long allen bolts)

If no markings like the grade 5 & 8 or numbers like 3rd and 4th from left in top left of pic they are standard mild steel bolts. So yes, probably cheap chinese crap. Invest in some grade 5 bolts at least, stainless steel is around grade 5 strength, although for footrests i would use hi tensile steel.

Never seen it happen, too much Macca's?

I'm hoping they are not factory ones...I hate grade 8 bolts

Whats a good brand of screw extractor to get?  

Sutton are decent, start with what hilly said a good hard centre punch hit. If they're grade 8 centre punch will hardly mark them. Use smaller size drill and extractor first then up to larger if needed. Use a pilot drill to walk the drill to centre of bolt before going into a hole, this way if both extractors fail you can drill out and re tap/clean thread.

Like Bigfella said, Sutton or equivalent, there are a few different types but I like the square tapered ones, you knock them in with a hammer, good quality ones have a sharp bitey edge on all four corners, the ones that screw in are a menace in the wrong hands, there are also straight splined ones, I don't go much on them either.

a good set of l/h drills[ wurth,p&n ect ]  can work wonders.

I got a set but they are a bit spendy for one off use, amazing how many broken track roller bolts will back out just with the drill.

yes ,i am converted, use em odd times,they are exspensive, so keep them for speacial occasions.

might be a silly question .but , can you see or feel the other end of the thread through the frame if accessible ? .. i would imagine the thread has loctite but if not once the pressure is realeased from a bolt through snapping it  quite often becomes loose and will spin out if u can get it moving .. if its a HT bolt u will probably struggle to drill it , same with stainless unless u got really good bits, both tend to drift off a bit even after c/punching if using a hand drill ... but if u can i would go with the left hand drill bits as its possible they may even spin out while trying to drill it . ... sometimes in the past depending how deep it is ive managed to cut a small groove in it and then turn out with a screw driver 

Go easy, I had the same once with an exhaust hanger bolt, tried to get it out with a titanium ezy-out, broke that off in there too. It's probably still in there, wherever it is now...

Question then:  Where can I get left hand drill bits (they are not that common)?  I do not mind investing in a set.

Coventrys or the likes, big arse tool shops, depends where you are , hey online as well, might track them down local with Google, 

If it is a grade 8 or high tensile bolt use Cobalt coated drills, it will make drilling em out a lot easier, they are not that expensive.