Online: Retroman, bloodog, flstc08

Forward control bolts sheared off... help

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  • tussuck
    tussuck
    5 years ago
    Progress update:
    Fuck ... Fuckitty fuck; fuck fuck it all!
  • Grease Monkey
    Grease Monkey
    5 years ago
    Arr yes, copy on the fuck fuckitty, what seems to be the cause of the fuck fuckitty? Where you at?
  • Timmy
    Timmy
    5 years ago
    Gee, a 3/8” bolt shouldn’t snap under the weight of someone’s foot, even if they were grade 4.6 bolts.
    I think they must of been from a bad batch of bolts.  I’ve had that before.  All 1000 M12 galvanised  bolts just snapped when tightening.  Admittedly I didn’t go through every bolt,  but they were all shearing off.  
  • John.R
    John.R
    5 years ago
    Since getting a TIG, its been my go-to for removing every snapped, sheered and seized bolt.
    From tiny snapped bolts in handcontrol housing, seized bolts that snapped 5mm inside (recessed) that could never be drilled due to angles, to bigger stuff as well (which are wayyyy easier)

    If you've got a mate with a TIG, give em a yell.

    Here is one of my biggest triumphs haha, had to do it to both sides, saved me buying a swingarm.

    https://imgur.com/gallery/mopAd
  • tussuck
    tussuck
    5 years ago
    Well I got an Easyout with lefthanded bits and managed to break the drill in the bottom of the first hole.  Got the bit out but the easyout is not denting things at all in the first hole.  Have not started on the second yet other than a light pilot hole but am inclined to take the bike to the Thread Doctor in town and just have him do the job.
    I did ponder TIGing a bolt to the broken bit, but was worried that the heat would bugger the paint.  its still on the cards as a last resort though.
     


  • Grease Monkey
    Grease Monkey
    5 years ago
    Bud you got to try and keep the hole in the middle, drill right through the bolt, take the hole out to about 3/16, get a punch on it and belt it with a hammer, I would soak it in penetrant of whatever flavour you have and give it a try with the easyout, if it don't come try the heat from a powerful soldering iron and more penetrant, bit more tapping with the hammer and punch thrown in, failing that weld a bolt on but be warned, once you weld the bolt will get get harder and be way harder to drill if you have to end up trying to drill most of it out to re-tap the hole.
  • tussuck
    tussuck
    5 years ago
    Cheers,
    The pic is deceptive but the bottom one I'm working on has the hole pretty much dead centre.  Bloody drill broke before I even got all the way through.
    I'll check out the Thread Doc, but also get a new cobolt drill bit tomorrow so I can keep at it.
    In the meantime I have put the mid footrest back on for the right side so that I at least have a rear brake for the weekly commute.  Feels a bit wonky riding with one mid and one fwd but it does the trick
  • Wideglider
    Wideglider
    5 years ago
    True, if drilling isn't central then you're wasting your time. 
    Need to get the surface flat first (use a Dremel), then centre-punch before drilling. Use Penetrene as previously suggested.
  • wello
    wello
    5 years ago
    clearly those bolts are seized pretty tight so wasting money on a left hand drill bit wont really help , any old bit will do so long as can drill the steel , if it is a stainless bolt i would imagine the corrosion that happens between it and carbon steel  is not helping .. if its high tensile then both are a pain in arse to drill anyway ... but in my experience dont stress to much about being exactly in the middle just as long as u dont drift to one side and gore op the threads .. and if u do happen to get through with a bit make sure u make hole as big as u can so less chance of the easy out breaking or ur really fkd ... i been dealing with these for donkeys years and what i normally do is heat the remaining thread so its glowing red then let it cool .. that makes it shrink just enough to get it moving ... so if u know a plumber with an oxy set and a small braizing head that may be a last resort , ya can soon chuck a bit of black paint on afterwards : )
  • brucefxdl
    brucefxdl
    5 years ago
    Quoting wello on 13 May 2019 01:30 AM

    clearly those bolts are seized pretty tight so wasting money on a left hand drill bit wont really help , any old bit will do so long as can drill the steel , if it is a stainless bolt i would imagine the corrosion that happens between it and carbon steel  is not helping .. if its high tensile then both are a pain in arse to drill anyway ... but in my experience dont stress to much about being exactly in the middle just as long as u dont drift to one side and gore op the threads .. and if u do happen to get through with a bit make sure u make hole as big as u can so less chance of the easy out breaking or ur really fkd ... i been dealing with these for donkeys years and what i normally do is heat the remaining thread so its glowing red then let it cool .. that makes it shrink just enough to get it moving ... so if u know a plumber with an oxy set and a small braizing head that may be a last resort , ya can soon chuck a bit of black paint on afterwards : )

    agree wello,once a hole is all the way through it wont take much heat to get it cheery red,make sure you cover anything on the other side of the hole as the heat coming through will befocussed in to  a small area and will heat things pretty quick.if you can cool it quick [ quelch it ] with water it should move easy or just let it cool natural [ cold to touch] and give a hit with a punch and be on your way to finish your repair,no 2 broken bolts will ever be the same in ease/difficulty in removing.good luck and stay positive, you will win the end.
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