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Handlebars - Internal Wiring

  • OILLEAK2008
    OILLEAK2008
    5 years ago
    Gents - I want to wire my old 1990's softail through some new bars. From what I read the easiest way is to unplug the switchblock wires from somewhere under the tank and thread the plugs/wires through the bars before re plugging back in????   
    IF (IF) this is correct - are the plugs small enuf to easily travel within a set of bars? & if so - do I need to take tanks off to locate where the plugs actually live so I can unplug them??  
    Many thanks if you know what I am on about and if you can assist.
    Cheers
    OL
  • Nutty
    Nutty
    5 years ago
    Having done probably 20+ bar installs over the years I say the answers are a) No and b) Yes. 
    The tank comes off unless you're Inspector Gadget/a Thai masseuse. 

    Re: the plugs. 
    1) They don't fit through 95% of fatbars and 0% of 1" bars.
    2) removing each pin from the plug-housing and then re-fixing after threading the bar inevitably results in shitty connections and electrical gremlins down the track.

    Nowadays I cut the loom off about 80mm from the plug, thread the bar, and then solder/heat shrink the joints. 

    On beach bars and apes above 14-16" you'll need to extend the loom anyway. Things like Big Johnsons and King Mentele's need at least 150mm added to the loom. 

    Don't be tempted to install a job where the loom is tight, it'll cause electrical issues. 

    p.m. if you need a hand and I'll shoot you my mobile number. If you're within a days ride from 2540 I'll come give you a hand if you want.

    Cheers, Pete.

      
  • Birtyyy
    Birtyyy
    5 years ago
    Quoting Nutty on 17 Feb 2019 08:16 PM

    Having done probably 20+ bar installs over the years I say the answers are a) No and b) Yes. 

    The tank comes off unless you're Inspector Gadget/a Thai masseuse. 

    Re: the plugs. 
    1) They don't fit through 95% of fatbars and 0% of 1" bars.
    2) removing each pin from the plug-housing and then re-fixing after threading the bar inevitably results in shitty connections and electrical gremlins down the track.

    Nowadays I cut the loom off about 80mm from the plug, thread the bar, and then solder/heat shrink the joints. 

    On beach bars and apes above 14-16" you'll need to extend the loom anyway. Things like Big Johnsons and King Mentele's need at least 150mm added to the loom. 

    Don't be tempted to install a job where the loom is tight, it'll cause electrical issues. 

    p.m. if you need a hand and I'll shoot you my mobile number. If you're within a days ride from 2540 I'll come give you a hand if you want.

    Cheers, Pete.

      

    You don't recommend removing the pins from plugs?!? That's the only way I'd do it. 
  • Nutty
    Nutty
    5 years ago
    Quoting Nutty on 17 Feb 2019 08:16 PM

    Having done probably 20+ bar installs over the years I say the answers are a) No and b) Yes. 

    The tank comes off unless you're Inspector Gadget/a Thai masseuse. 

    Re: the plugs. 
    1) They don't fit through 95% of fatbars and 0% of 1" bars.
    2) removing each pin from the plug-housing and then re-fixing after threading the bar inevitably results in shitty connections and electrical gremlins down the track.

    Nowadays I cut the loom off about 80mm from the plug, thread the bar, and then solder/heat shrink the joints. 

    On beach bars and apes above 14-16" you'll need to extend the loom anyway. Things like Big Johnsons and King Mentele's need at least 150mm added to the loom. 

    Don't be tempted to install a job where the loom is tight, it'll cause electrical issues. 

    p.m. if you need a hand and I'll shoot you my mobile number. If you're within a days ride from 2540 I'll come give you a hand if you want.

    Cheers, Pete.

      

    Quoting Birtyyy on 17 Feb 2019 08:32 PM

    You don't recommend removing the pins from plugs?!? That's the only way I'd do it. 

    Nah, it only takes one kink in a pin to create a weak point. Seen a few fail. There's 36-40 pins in a tourer with all the fruit, the heated-grip pins are very flimsy. 
    I have most of the pin removal tools but why mess with something that you don't need to? Nearly every job I do is big apes so the looms need cutting anyway...
  • John.R
    John.R
    5 years ago
    Not sure if current models still run Deutsche plugs, but no chance id be hacking and soldering the wiring over de-pinning the plugs if extensions werent needed.

  • SJM
    SJM
    5 years ago
    On my softball I was able  raise the front of the tank to unclip the wiring plugs.
    Unpinning the wires was easy and the namz extension kits were decent if required
    Decent quality bars are recommended.  Cheap brand nearly went through window after much frustration trying to thread wires through them.  Last brand I purchased were better quality and took  literally minutes to internally wire... It's just getting to that stage and re-installing everything takes time.  
  • Birtyyy
    Birtyyy
    5 years ago
    Quoting John.R on 17 Feb 2019 09:43 PM

    Not sure if current models still run Deutsche plugs, but no chance id be hacking and soldering the wiring over de-pinning the plugs if extensions werent needed.

    Agreed!
  • Nutty
    Nutty
    5 years ago
    Quoting John.R on 17 Feb 2019 09:43 PM

    Not sure if current models still run Deutsche plugs, but no chance id be hacking and soldering the wiring over de-pinning the plugs if extensions werent needed.

    It's only 'hacking' if done by a hacker John. My solder joints are mechanically and electrically superior to the base conductor. 
    I don't care for jumper looms as it doubles the number of connections to fail. Also, with Johnsons or Mentele's the plugs would end up just under the bar-port among all the sharp edges. 

    Each to their own, I've never had a return or a fault on boot-up. Building a whole new colour-coded loom for 18" apes would be a costly exercise. I can't see any viable way out of splicing cables...happy to learn a new method though!
  • OILLEAK2008
    OILLEAK2008
    5 years ago
    Quoting Nutty on 17 Feb 2019 08:16 PM

    Having done probably 20+ bar installs over the years I say the answers are a) No and b) Yes. 

    The tank comes off unless you're Inspector Gadget/a Thai masseuse. 

    Re: the plugs. 
    1) They don't fit through 95% of fatbars and 0% of 1" bars.
    2) removing each pin from the plug-housing and then re-fixing after threading the bar inevitably results in shitty connections and electrical gremlins down the track.

    Nowadays I cut the loom off about 80mm from the plug, thread the bar, and then solder/heat shrink the joints. 

    On beach bars and apes above 14-16" you'll need to extend the loom anyway. Things like Big Johnsons and King Mentele's need at least 150mm added to the loom. 

    Don't be tempted to install a job where the loom is tight, it'll cause electrical issues. 

    p.m. if you need a hand and I'll shoot you my mobile number. If you're within a days ride from 2540 I'll come give you a hand if you want.

    Cheers, Pete.

      

    Thanks for the sound advise and offer of help Nutty. I decided to ditch the idea and purchased the same bars that have dimples. Its the easy way out but I tend to like the easy way. Thanks very much once again for your offer of help, very much appreciated. - OL 
  • perthhog
    perthhog
    5 years ago
    Go internal oil leak it much cleaner and well worth the effort  you will have to remove the right tank
    To access the handle bar wiring plugs  I agree with nutty  on   cut and solder that’s what I’ve done with my 
    Bikes  and others   With the early style plugs  but I use 7 core trailer wire all ready covered ,for inside the bars 
    By memory 5 wires each sideAre the same colour   I join down behind the tank like nutty just stager the joins   
    And than join the Other end at the switch  just back inside the switch blocks   This is  easy if you are good with a 
    Iron  and  don’t  rush it can be a bit fiddle up at the switch’s  ,  I feed the new wire through the bars first 
    Leave extra length do the switch end first. Than down behind tank  depending what softail you have  the 
    Wire has to be cut or plug disassembled to get through the the top tree  as the hole is not big enough 
    For the plug to go through  and like nutty I have the pin out tools too  but  if the solder join is right and heat shrink
    used you should never Have a problem,  as for  cutting/ solder vs disassemble depends on the application 
    I too have seen more problems with plugs that have been disassembled later on  (on car Deutsche plugs )
    Than  a good solder join .  Depending on what bars you use you more than likely will have to 
    Die grind  open the holes a bit for the wiring underneath the switch blocks to , what ever way you go 
    Remember to disconnect the battery first  good luck with what ever  way you go 
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