Online: WideglidingNZ, Ultramick

Dyno Questions

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  • Oz Dan
    Oz Dan
    5 years ago
    Quoting Lushy on 21 Jan 2019 03:30 AM

    I know Fred very well and like him am not easily offended, hell my son flew to Qld and did some work experience with Freddo, Looks like he charges about the same as me. Folk do get hung up on numbers, the bike needs to run well. The easiest part of the whole mapping process is to get the WOT line on the map right,gets a good dyno graph, but as others have alluded to, it is not the be all and end all. One thing I have learned in over 22 years of dyno-tuning is remember to tune the BIKE not the dyno. Tune the bike to run how it should using your dyno/tools/data gathering, THEN measure the numbers. Surely a grand would have to include a PV license or some such.   

    Good points there Lushy and good to hear from another respected tuner. I’ll look to learn from your knowledge on this forum.
    To ever be charged a grand for a Stage 4 tune at ProCycle dyno, it would have to include a PV licence as you suggest. FEI, Fred has only ever charged two people more than $599 for a Stage 4 tune, and even then the additional charge was only $50.
    So as you say, your charges sound equivalent to Fred’s. Good prices for a done right the first time tune. Many tuners don’t.

    Carry on people - just adding some accurate pricing info.
  • Krash Kinkade
    Krash Kinkade
    5 years ago
    Quoting Moulis on 19 Jan 2019 11:41 PM

    Thanks heaps for all the input guys. I don't know if I mentioned it earlier but the stock 114 demo model I rode in the test ride had me grinning from ear to ear. I only took it out for about 15 minutes. I was happy with everything about it except for the sound of it (or lack of) with the stock pipes. The Breakout I was looking at had the Heavy Breather, Vance and Hines and tuner on it already. To me, it is an awesome bike as is but I'm curious to see what they are capable of with the stage kits.

    I'm by no means a hugely experienced road rider and on the rides I have been on am only just really opening it up where I feel comfortable. Not throwing it into the twisties scraping the pegs. I hadn't really thought of taking it to Willowbank but I am now. :). My main reason for putting it on the Dyno was to see if there was much difference between stock 114 numbers and stage 1 numbers, also so I had some comparisons for after I got the stage 4 kit done. I also wanted to vlog the whole process. I knew the bike was gonna come back tuned with my tuner from the dealer but I wanted an independent dyno tune. Fred has got so many good reviews on all the forums and social media. After meeting and discussing what I wanted I'm happy to let him tune it.


    hey Good for you!! I think you ride about normal. these day's we all have to I think.
    if you go to Willowbank, don't worry about burnouts, just go off as you would off the lights, those 114 have heaps of torque, so use that & don't rev it real high short shift, if possible try to hold 4th or 5th gear & keep wide open in speed trap, the less times you need to shift the better thats why I say if possible hold in 4th or 5th if you hit rev limiter trying to hold 4th, next pass shift to 5th & hole that wide open. good luck. Willowbank a great track!!


  • Moulis
    Moulis
    5 years ago
    Got my bike down to ProCycle Dyno today for Fred to work on after my Stage 4 Kit Upgrade. Got these numbers :)

  • paulybronco
    paulybronco
    5 years ago
    Quoting Moulis on 19 Mar 2019 09:26 AM

    Got my bike down to ProCycle Dyno today for Fred to work on after my Stage 4 Kit Upgrade. Got these numbers :)

    Cant see it...
  • Moulis
    Moulis
    5 years ago
    Quoting Moulis on 19 Mar 2019 09:26 AM

    Got my bike down to ProCycle Dyno today for Fred to work on after my Stage 4 Kit Upgrade. Got these numbers :)

    Quoting paulybronco on 19 Mar 2019 09:28 AM

    Cant see it...

    Max Horsepower = 116.90 at Engine RPM = 5.55
    Max Torque = 123.17 at Engine RPM = 4.13
  • paulybronco
    paulybronco
    5 years ago
    Quoting Moulis on 19 Mar 2019 09:26 AM

    Got my bike down to ProCycle Dyno today for Fred to work on after my Stage 4 Kit Upgrade. Got these numbers :)

    Quoting paulybronco on 19 Mar 2019 09:28 AM

    Cant see it...

    Quoting Moulis on 19 Mar 2019 09:42 AM

    Max Horsepower = 116.90 at Engine RPM = 5.55

    Max Torque = 123.17 at Engine RPM = 4.13

    Great numbers, Fred is a magician, very clever man
  • Moulis
    Moulis
    5 years ago
    Quoting paulybronco on 19 Mar 2019 09:28 AM

    Cant see it...

    Quoting Moulis on 19 Mar 2019 09:42 AM

    Max Horsepower = 116.90 at Engine RPM = 5.55

    Max Torque = 123.17 at Engine RPM = 4.13

    Quoting paulybronco on 19 Mar 2019 09:45 AM

    Great numbers, Fred is a magician, very clever man

    Gone from 87.62  to 116.90 hp and 113.43  to 123.17 Torque. He thinks he could squeeze out better numbers with a bigger exhaust. I'm pretty happy with this for now though.
  • Nutty
    Nutty
    5 years ago
    Quoting Lushy on 21 Jan 2019 03:30 AM

    I know Fred very well and like him am not easily offended, hell my son flew to Qld and did some work experience with Freddo, Looks like he charges about the same as me. Folk do get hung up on numbers, the bike needs to run well. The easiest part of the whole mapping process is to get the WOT line on the map right,gets a good dyno graph, but as others have alluded to, it is not the be all and end all. One thing I have learned in over 22 years of dyno-tuning is remember to tune the BIKE not the dyno. Tune the bike to run how it should using your dyno/tools/data gathering, THEN measure the numbers. Surely a grand would have to include a PV license or some such.   

    Good advice Lushy. Pretty hard to spend four hours tuning a bike unless its a really tricky job.

    On pure numbers 88/116 is seems a bit asthmatic for a 114 M8 Stage 1, BUT...not every dyno reads the same, comparing numbers from two different dynos, or even two different days is fruitless. It's a comparison tool, not a measuring tool.

    The last M8 I did was a 107 Stage 1 tourer which went 90/110 on our dyno. Brand of pipe, headers, tuner, air cleaner, all kick in too.

    A lot of basic dyno tunes just adjust the fuel maps and not the ignition, the good guys will find 2-3HP and 4-5ft/lb  with ignition.

    As Lushy says, its no use finding a big torque number if there's a hole in the torque curve. I love working with HDs on their tune after 30 years of doing 2Ts where the motor has to come apart to fix the curves...

    Nice looking result there!

  • brash
    brash
    5 years ago
    Quoting Lushy on 21 Jan 2019 03:30 AM

    I know Fred very well and like him am not easily offended, hell my son flew to Qld and did some work experience with Freddo, Looks like he charges about the same as me. Folk do get hung up on numbers, the bike needs to run well. The easiest part of the whole mapping process is to get the WOT line on the map right,gets a good dyno graph, but as others have alluded to, it is not the be all and end all. One thing I have learned in over 22 years of dyno-tuning is remember to tune the BIKE not the dyno. Tune the bike to run how it should using your dyno/tools/data gathering, THEN measure the numbers. Surely a grand would have to include a PV license or some such.   

    Quoting Nutty on 19 Mar 2019 08:38 PMedited: 19 Mar 2019 08:43 PM

    Good advice Lushy. Pretty hard to spend four hours tuning a bike unless its a really tricky job.

    On pure numbers 88/116 is seems a bit asthmatic for a 114 M8 Stage 1, BUT...not every dyno reads the same, comparing numbers from two different dynos, or even two different days is fruitless. It's a comparison tool, not a measuring tool.

    The last M8 I did was a 107 Stage 1 tourer which went 90/110 on our dyno. Brand of pipe, headers, tuner, air cleaner, all kick in too.

    A lot of basic dyno tunes just adjust the fuel maps and not the ignition, the good guys will find 2-3HP and 4-5ft/lb  with ignition.

    As Lushy says, its no use finding a big torque number if there's a hole in the torque curve. I love working with HDs on their tune after 30 years of doing 2Ts where the motor has to come apart to fix the curves...

    Nice looking result there!

    It's higher than what I've seen, but I use the Heartbreaker 5000 Mainline stuff and 4th gear pulls. It's all about the before/after as you said, and more importantly, the blacktop dyno :)

    As good as PV and even SERT (to a degree) are, tuning a PC5 for fuel only is the dream, in and out everyone is smiling and for the usual stage 1 jigger. All done by smoko time :)

    What I am interested to know from others in the game is their strategy for flash based tuning. Everyone seems to have their own method and ways to skin a cat. But I'm all about efficiency as I'm hiring the cell from the workshop. So I developed a small bit of software that you can punch in current AFR at that point in the map, user selectable target AFR's can be configured and it spits out a Delta to hit target AFR. It's been a huge time saver for myself especially in developing cruise parts of the map. You can have certain cells at stoich and others at 12:1 or whatever you choose so it's useful for tuning whatever engine in essence, hit the calculate delta button and hey presto you got some %'s to work with.

    Don't know if there is a market out there, or a product that does this already. It took me not even an hour to write it.

    But I'm interested to hear others techniques if they are willing to share.

  • Moulis
    Moulis
    5 years ago
    Quoting Lushy on 21 Jan 2019 03:30 AM

    I know Fred very well and like him am not easily offended, hell my son flew to Qld and did some work experience with Freddo, Looks like he charges about the same as me. Folk do get hung up on numbers, the bike needs to run well. The easiest part of the whole mapping process is to get the WOT line on the map right,gets a good dyno graph, but as others have alluded to, it is not the be all and end all. One thing I have learned in over 22 years of dyno-tuning is remember to tune the BIKE not the dyno. Tune the bike to run how it should using your dyno/tools/data gathering, THEN measure the numbers. Surely a grand would have to include a PV license or some such.   

    Quoting Nutty on 19 Mar 2019 08:38 PMedited: 19 Mar 2019 08:43 PM

    Good advice Lushy. Pretty hard to spend four hours tuning a bike unless its a really tricky job.

    On pure numbers 88/116 is seems a bit asthmatic for a 114 M8 Stage 1, BUT...not every dyno reads the same, comparing numbers from two different dynos, or even two different days is fruitless. It's a comparison tool, not a measuring tool.

    The last M8 I did was a 107 Stage 1 tourer which went 90/110 on our dyno. Brand of pipe, headers, tuner, air cleaner, all kick in too.

    A lot of basic dyno tunes just adjust the fuel maps and not the ignition, the good guys will find 2-3HP and 4-5ft/lb  with ignition.

    As Lushy says, its no use finding a big torque number if there's a hole in the torque curve. I love working with HDs on their tune after 30 years of doing 2Ts where the motor has to come apart to fix the curves...

    Nice looking result there!

    I should mention those figures were from different Dynos and different technicians. I actually anticipated a higher HP output than what the custom fuel mapping produced yesterday but after riding the bike home and then talking with Fred regarding the numbers I am happy with the outcome. I may look at bigger exhausts in the future but this will do for now.
  • fatbat
    fatbat
    5 years ago
    Quoting Lushy on 21 Jan 2019 03:30 AM

    I know Fred very well and like him am not easily offended, hell my son flew to Qld and did some work experience with Freddo, Looks like he charges about the same as me. Folk do get hung up on numbers, the bike needs to run well. The easiest part of the whole mapping process is to get the WOT line on the map right,gets a good dyno graph, but as others have alluded to, it is not the be all and end all. One thing I have learned in over 22 years of dyno-tuning is remember to tune the BIKE not the dyno. Tune the bike to run how it should using your dyno/tools/data gathering, THEN measure the numbers. Surely a grand would have to include a PV license or some such.   

    Quoting Nutty on 19 Mar 2019 08:38 PMedited: 19 Mar 2019 08:43 PM

    Good advice Lushy. Pretty hard to spend four hours tuning a bike unless its a really tricky job.

    On pure numbers 88/116 is seems a bit asthmatic for a 114 M8 Stage 1, BUT...not every dyno reads the same, comparing numbers from two different dynos, or even two different days is fruitless. It's a comparison tool, not a measuring tool.

    The last M8 I did was a 107 Stage 1 tourer which went 90/110 on our dyno. Brand of pipe, headers, tuner, air cleaner, all kick in too.

    A lot of basic dyno tunes just adjust the fuel maps and not the ignition, the good guys will find 2-3HP and 4-5ft/lb  with ignition.

    As Lushy says, its no use finding a big torque number if there's a hole in the torque curve. I love working with HDs on their tune after 30 years of doing 2Ts where the motor has to come apart to fix the curves...

    Nice looking result there!

    Quoting brash on 19 Mar 2019 09:19 PMedited: 19 Mar 2019 09:20 PM

    It's higher than what I've seen, but I use the Heartbreaker 5000 Mainline stuff and 4th gear pulls. It's all about the before/after as you said, and more importantly, the blacktop dyno :)

    As good as PV and even SERT (to a degree) are, tuning a PC5 for fuel only is the dream, in and out everyone is smiling and for the usual stage 1 jigger. All done by smoko time :)

    What I am interested to know from others in the game is their strategy for flash based tuning. Everyone seems to have their own method and ways to skin a cat. But I'm all about efficiency as I'm hiring the cell from the workshop. So I developed a small bit of software that you can punch in current AFR at that point in the map, user selectable target AFR's can be configured and it spits out a Delta to hit target AFR. It's been a huge time saver for myself especially in developing cruise parts of the map. You can have certain cells at stoich and others at 12:1 or whatever you choose so it's useful for tuning whatever engine in essence, hit the calculate delta button and hey presto you got some %'s to work with.

    Don't know if there is a market out there, or a product that does this already. It took me not even an hour to write it.

    But I'm interested to hear others techniques if they are willing to share.

    I thought the established dyno tuners would have such an extensive library of maps they would select a pre existing, appropriate calibration similar to what they are tuning for and tune off that without need to make significant changes to fuel (but more on ve and timing)  
    I'm only a hacker but have had a few bikes tuned and played around with the TTS enough to make me dangerous haha 
  • brash
    brash
    5 years ago

    Correct, my main focus is on hot rod sporties so have a good library of tunes from improved stock right through to hi comp 90ci 110hp ball tearers. Even so, the VE can vary enough that it warrants modification even though 2 bikes may have the engine and mods performed.  

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