HD Forums Australia
Home
Online: John.R
Topics

couple evo rebuild questions

  • Tarvis
    Tarvis
    6 years ago
    Hey all,
    New to the forums here and new to Harley (although have owned a few other bikes).

    Recently I bought a 92 Super Glide Custom. I'm tidying it up before roadworthy, and am currently replacing the cylinder base gaskets. Motor disassembly has gone pretty well and it will get new rings, valve seals and a fresh gasket set when done up.

    This is the first motor I've pulled down and the exhaust ports have a fair bit of built up carbon in them. I've done a bit of googling, but I wanted to see if anyone had any good ways of cleaning all this buildup out in a home workshop with the usual tools? I've been using carby cleaner on the bowls and the head surface (with some scotch brite pad) - its slow going getting the gasket residue off - I assume it has to be spotless (and not scratched up) basically.

    Second question relates to the fuel tank. It has a small dint in it, which I would like to try and push out from the inside of the tank (it is near the filler so I can probably get something behind it. If I do manage to do it, I will probably repaint the whole tank (and other painted parts). I'd feel more comfortable getting all the fuel residue out of the tank before working on it, and I'm prepared to pay someone to do this (so its done properly). Can anyone recommend a shop in Melbourne (south east suburbs), who might be able to do this? Otherwise, if you have a fool proof method for doing this, I'd be keen to hear it. 

    I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go along, but so far so good.

    Cheers,
    Trav


  • berserker
    berserker
    6 years ago
    Hey trav, have removed gasket residue before but not on a harley. Basically the same way as you are doing, i have also used a razor blade gently scraping off the larger pieces which sped it up but Still took forever so maybe someone else here has a better way. I can recommend you a shop in the south eastern suburbs. See paul at mk1 motorcycles. Reasonably priced and does an awesome job. Hes the only one i see for work that i cannot do myself. I cant remember the address but just Google mk1 motorcycles carrum downs and speak to paul. Hope this helps
  • tussuck
    tussuck
    6 years ago
    I have my EVO several times and use a new box cutter blade to do flat surfaces and then any tool that fits the combustion chamber (I found some old dentist tools that are fantastic - not too sharp but strong)
    Get the jugs honed if your doing the rings. just a light hone to deglaze the bore


  • Tarvis
    Tarvis
    6 years ago
    Thanks all for the suggestions.
    I will call Paul as you suggested Berserker.

    I've already had the cylinders honed so they are good to go - its just the heads I'm not quite happy with yet.
  • Ken in Cairns
    Ken in Cairns
    6 years ago
    Fill the ports with water and let soak for a day or two, or place in a tib and fill tlup so the water level fills the ports if the valves are already out, which it sounds like. The carbon will soften right up along with all the other harder crap and come out much easier, it is how we did the old diesel heads after we stopped using the very nasty carbon cleaner chemical. But we had to soak them for 3 or 4 days as they were using black fuel oil not nice diesel.
    Small wire wheel type brushes and scotch bright with diesel and then wet and dry is how I used to do the ports, you dont want to change the shape of the ports unless you know what you are doing.  
    You could always send them off to Mark Hood in Adelaide  for port  work and valve job ;)

    Cheers Ken 
  • Tarvis
    Tarvis
    6 years ago
    Hey Ken,
    Thanks for this, I might give that a try.

    I assume I don't need to worry about rust if only for 24 hours? I know the heads are alloy, but was worried about the valve guides.

    Bob - I've tried some of the gasket removing goo (can't remember which brand), but its only the impression of the gasket left on the head now and that is what I'm having trouble removing.

    Cheers.
  • Ken in Cairns
    Ken in Cairns
    6 years ago
    Pack the inner guide tube with greased up rag that will stop any rust on the inner guide tube.
    You will not remove the embossing of the head gasket by hand, just scape off the old gasket  and test for warp as per the manual, straight edge and feeler gauge basically. The manual will state the required surface finish and warp tolerance.

    O and don't use compressed air on the tank to "pop" out the dent. Very good chance you will rupture the seam. Had a painter destroy my z900 tank like that and was lucky I didn't have a fire when we fitted it onto the bike and had the petrol pour out onto the hot engine and pipes when we put fuel into it from a jerry can.

    Totally stuffed up his pretty paint job re sealing the tank :(
    Cheers Ken 
  • brucefxdl
    brucefxdl
    6 years ago
    surface prep tool/disc's work well....but you must use discs designed for alloy and go carefully and when using the fine ones will polish the alloy to a good finish for gaskets,but not mirror finish....unless you get carried away.down side [and theres always  one] the air tools are not cheap for a reasonable unit, but worth it ,you can get small flap discs as well for those little buffing jobs around the shed.cheers
  • Wideglider
    Wideglider
    6 years ago
    Hey Tarvis, all good advice & these guys giving you the go-ahead to buy more tools, always a good thing!
  • Tarvis
    Tarvis
    6 years ago
    Thanks all, very helpful.

    Ken - i think you've helped me out there, I've been trying to remove the impression of the gasket so I probably don't need to go any further by the sounds of it - there is no gasket material left. Surface is still flat and relatively mirror like.

    RE the tank, I'll stay away from air. I was thinking more along the lines of a bent piece of flat steel bar or something. I'm just worried about blowing myself up with a spark, that's all.

    Bruce - I've got one of those paint removal discs to do the outer of the tank and fender/mudguards when I get to prepping for painting. That and some paint stripper should get the job done.

    Has anyone used high pressure steam before to clean the shit out of ports? i would think that would probably work ok?
  • Ken in Cairns
    Ken in Cairns
    6 years ago
    Not raw steam but have used a hot water gerni water blaster. A water blaster should get the crap off once you soak it.
    Rinse shit out of the tank with hot water if you are worried, then metho wash after to dry it all out.
    A bent rod or flat bar does work of you can get it in there, just get the bulk of it out to get your fuel capacity back then smooth it out with bog and paint.
    Cheers Ken 
  • brucefxdl
    brucefxdl
    6 years ago
    Quoting Tarvis on 02 Oct 2018 11:30 AM

    Thanks all, very helpful.

    Ken - i think you've helped me out there, I've been trying to remove the impression of the gasket so I probably don't need to go any further by the sounds of it - there is no gasket material left. Surface is still flat and relatively mirror like.

    RE the tank, I'll stay away from air. I was thinking more along the lines of a bent piece of flat steel bar or something. I'm just worried about blowing myself up with a spark, that's all.

    Bruce - I've got one of those paint removal discs to do the outer of the tank and fender/mudguards when I get to prepping for painting. That and some paint stripper should get the job done.

    Has anyone used high pressure steam before to clean the shit out of ports? i would think that would probably work ok?

    the discs we use for gasket removal and rust removal are 50 mm diameter with a 1/2 turn lock on to the drive pad,the air tool is small ,good for getting into small areas,but the passing air in the tool freezes your hands.cheers
Topics