Dyna headers are crap.

It worked very well and achieved my objective of being able to be stealth in a moment. I used it to start up and ride quietly out of my neighbourhood at dawn. 

Eventually the carbon build-up in the exhaust made it difficult to move the flap. I think if you were fastidious in moving the flap very regularly it may not jam up as much. 

I eventually sold it for another pipe but mainly because I forked out $ on a 107 top end build and to get the most out of it I wanted a good performance exhaust. I used the supertrapp 2-1 exhaust at the recommendation of the engine builder and also the tuner. It also conveniently happens to be one of the quieter exhausts which you can tune for flow/noise by adding/removing discs. They also have a closed end cap option which makes the sound very quiet. 

The jeckyl and Hyde exhaust was around when looked into this as was the peacemaker but both were/are very exxy and I couldn't justify the cost for something that was relatively unknown..

The concept with these exhausts is clever. The flow between open and closed is very different so I'd recommend you only change the flow/noise for when needed as otherwise your tune is out. Unless you had a power vision or similar where you can readily change between two different tunes. 

The risk with the flaps that open/close/move to make these exhausts work is that they fail or jam up whilst operating in a very hot and sooty environment. I'd be pissed off if this happened for a costly exhaust. 

You can avoid the risk of being defected via other means. My supertrapp and choosing where and when I make noise has helped me. 

Good luck and let us know what you do 

What’s up with you PB? The nominated cunt of the forum suddenly gone quiet, maybe you not a cunt after all! Lol. You know where that came from! 

http://www.nationalcycle.com/media/wysiwyg/pdf/documents/Peacemakers_VTwin.pdf

Well as you know, I tried the Smartpartz baffles in behind my V&H standard baffles, and although they made a slight difference in the sound and definitely gave me better low end torque, they are still no where near compliant, so, next I ordered and installed the V&H Quiet Baffles, the loudness difference was 1 DB! So next I tried the Smartpartz & Quiet Baffle combination and well it made no fucking difference, funnily enough, my Buttdyno also saw no difference in the Torque, I.e. it does not appear to me that I’ve chocked the engine with the quiet baffles, it feels like it runs the same.

So, how’s about this for an idea, and before you all groan, I really like the look of the V&H BR and they compliment, in my opinion, the look of my bike, but I also don’t want to look like a canary tree with all the yellow noise stickers I’m likely to pick up, hence my quest to quieten them down to legal levels. The stock exhausts come standard with an exhaust flap that’s connected to a servo motor (exhaust actuator), that’s connected to the ECU, from what I’ve read and observed, the flap is opened and closed at certain RPM, most importantly it seems it’s closed at the RPM limit defined on the sticky label on the frame that defines the dB loudness at 2505 rpm. This configuration is only present on 5HD (export) models, and is there, apparently, to meet Australian and European EPA requirements, for both noise and emissions. 

You pose and interesting proposition, I too like the VHBR but hate the volume with my 110 engine. I tried some different ways, bigger then longer baffles then wire suppositories which worked to get 93dB at 2500 rpm but it didn’t feel right. The others made very little difference.

I think the electronic idea is good but beyond me. Good luck 

Get one of them Muzza, problem solved, well, exhaust problem solved.

I see you have also tried many things to quieten the VHBR down, to no avail.

I have investigated the FP3 and the exhaust actuator and I am able to program the % open/closed at any point in the rpm range, which helps from an information perspective, ( I.e. the actuator is a servo driven device, not on/off) but.....what I need is to override the FP3 when the bike is in neutral and on the kickstand and revved to 2505, but it’s not possible to program that logic in to the FP3. They are not going to test you for noise in gear while someone holds the bike up! I guess what I am trying to do is what VW got caught doing.....override the system to suit EPA test conditions, hahaha.

I shall however, persevere!

Maybe I can get the system mechanism and electronics from Jekill and Hyde without the exhausts? I’ll try them.

Thank you for your interest and contribution to the thread.

Whether using a Super tuner or FP3, Won’t the sound valve be closed at idle, in gear or not ?

I understand that with two valves you’ll need to have them partially open at idle for flow but that could also be achieved by drilling the valves so they can close and maintain a desired flow rate, just add more holes till you get it right ?