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  • Grease Monkey
    Grease Monkey
    1 year ago
    Ralphski without getting into specific numbers as I believe they will be different for everyone this how I've come to see it with help on here.
    If it's snatchy you are either eating up your delay time or taking longer to change gear than you realise, lowering the sensitivity could worsen the former if that's why, could even be a bit of both.

    If it dives a little you have the cut-out time a bit long, nothing wrong with going out to this point and working back.

    Make sure your sensitivity is 100%, check that after a couple of runs as mine dropped off a bit, not much but it's all happening really fast and anything that changes has an effect, you can sort 1st to 2nd, it's do-able.
  • Wideglider
    Wideglider
    1 year ago
    Quoting Grease Monkey on 31 Aug 2019 10:25 PM

    Do it wideglide, it's the bomb

    I'll let you know how I get on & what works for me - a bit a trial & error with fine tuning I'm sure, half the fun anyway. 
  • Krash Kinkade
    Krash Kinkade
    1 year ago
    stock bikes, will shift 1st 2nd quick & easy. Bikes making Bulk Torque will have a lot of pressure on the gears & will benefit from back cut gears. it's always been that way with high performance Harleys trying to shift really quick. the more HP & TQ the harder to shift quick under full power.
  • tussuck
    tussuck
    1 year ago
    Quoting ralphski on 01 Sep 2019 05:03 AM

    fitted mine Sat

    a quick 15 minute ride noticed 1st -2nd was a little jerky, and slight gearbox noise ( about 2500-3500 )
    2nd-3rd, 3rd-4th, 4th-5th ( 2500-3500 ) seem ok
    all with default settings.
    just about to try sensor threshold 50 %, cut-off delay 15 m/s, first 3 rpm ranges all 85ms, next 6 rpm ranges 90 m/s
    simple to fit up, and so far very enjoyable.
    it'll take time to sort out.
    Oh, it's fitted to my Springer, 132 HP 122 TQ, 110 B motor
    Any hints/info regarding set-up would be great.
    thanks Mike ( great to deal with )


    1st to 2nd on power bike might be easier to short shift.  
  • Grease Monkey
    Grease Monkey
    1 year ago
    Quoting Grease Monkey on 26 Aug 2019 09:36 PM

    Hey Tussuck, have you been experimenting with cut out times for different RPMS? I'm still trying to get 1st to second, there is so much torque at that change that it's tricky to get right.

    That shift rod looks like mine :)


    Quoting Krash Kinkade on 26 Aug 2019 09:53 PM

    Back cut gears will fix that Hilly!!

    Sorry Krash I missed this one, is that a doable option on these box's?
  • Onequickpuck
    Onequickpuck
    1 year ago
    Quoting ralphski on 01 Sep 2019 05:03 AM

    fitted mine Sat

    a quick 15 minute ride noticed 1st -2nd was a little jerky, and slight gearbox noise ( about 2500-3500 )
    2nd-3rd, 3rd-4th, 4th-5th ( 2500-3500 ) seem ok
    all with default settings.
    just about to try sensor threshold 50 %, cut-off delay 15 m/s, first 3 rpm ranges all 85ms, next 6 rpm ranges 90 m/s
    simple to fit up, and so far very enjoyable.
    it'll take time to sort out.
    Oh, it's fitted to my Springer, 132 HP 122 TQ, 110 B motor
    Any hints/info regarding set-up would be great.
    thanks Mike ( great to deal with )


    Ralphski


    Most important check.... - make sure your sensitivity reading is a solid 90-100% when you give her a firm upshift in the shed.

    Then set your threshold 10-30% below that.

    Always be sure to give her a firm hit for each and every upshift.


    At lower bike speed, it will be smoother by shortshifting under part-throttle.

    As the bike speeds up, all will get smoother, including full power upshifts.

    Don't be afraid to tinker mate, and most of all - ENJOY :)

    Thanks again heaps for trying the HealTech!

    Cheers

    Ring me any time if you need any tips.

  • Baloffski
    Baloffski
    1 year ago
    Reading with great interest, as found the time to complete the hook up tonight, just the basics. 
    Some time during the week, will perform all the moves for smooth operation, I hope..
    Thanks Mike, and also all the crew who have been passing on knowledge learnt with this interesting sucker....

  • Krash Kinkade
    Krash Kinkade
    1 year ago
    Quoting Grease Monkey on 26 Aug 2019 09:36 PM

    Hey Tussuck, have you been experimenting with cut out times for different RPMS? I'm still trying to get 1st to second, there is so much torque at that change that it's tricky to get right.

    That shift rod looks like mine :)


    Quoting Krash Kinkade on 26 Aug 2019 09:53 PM

    Back cut gears will fix that Hilly!!

    Quoting Grease Monkey on 01 Sep 2019 11:14 AM

    Sorry Krash I missed this one, is that a doable option on these box's?

    Well a mate started drag racing an ol Shovel in early 1980's, he built a light long drag frame used a wide slick, still an old shovel 4 speed. ( not as strong as the 5 speed, but basically same style gears. put an air shift with ing cut out like your using . would not shift under full power. no one would tell you in those days & you had to learn & do everything yourself. he started back cutting the gears  so learnt himself and learnt to do it right, but it's a dirty job no fun. had that old shovel in the low 9's but would blow 1st gear as too much power for the old 4 speed. went to a brad foot gear box.
    but these days you can buy back cut gears from baker, the street back cut would be best as race back cut, can't do a lot of miles or they start jumping out of gear when you back off.
    but back cut gears and that ing cut out, with a big HP motor would have a lot of fun!!
  • ralphski
    ralphski
    1 year ago
    Quoting Grease Monkey on 01 Sep 2019 06:37 AMedited: 01 Sep 2019 06:41 AM

    Ralphski without getting into specific numbers as I believe they will be different for everyone this how I've come to see it with help on here.

    If it's snatchy you are either eating up your delay time or taking longer to change gear than you realise, lowering the sensitivity could worsen the former if that's why, could even be a bit of both.

    If it dives a little you have the cut-out time a bit long, nothing wrong with going out to this point and working back.

    Make sure your sensitivity is 100%, check that after a couple of runs as mine dropped off a bit, not much but it's all happening really fast and anything that changes has an effect, you can sort 1st to 2nd, it's do-able.

    went through the set-up menu in the shed.
    hard to check sensitivity, seems to go to 90-100%, how do you check ?
    didn't go for a ride.
    not really one to sort shit out, just want to ride.
  • tussuck
    tussuck
    1 year ago
    Quoting Grease Monkey on 01 Sep 2019 06:37 AMedited: 01 Sep 2019 06:41 AM

    Ralphski without getting into specific numbers as I believe they will be different for everyone this how I've come to see it with help on here.

    If it's snatchy you are either eating up your delay time or taking longer to change gear than you realise, lowering the sensitivity could worsen the former if that's why, could even be a bit of both.

    If it dives a little you have the cut-out time a bit long, nothing wrong with going out to this point and working back.

    Make sure your sensitivity is 100%, check that after a couple of runs as mine dropped off a bit, not much but it's all happening really fast and anything that changes has an effect, you can sort 1st to 2nd, it's do-able.

    Quoting ralphski on 03 Sep 2019 10:37 AM

    went through the set-up menu in the shed.

    hard to check sensitivity, seems to go to 90-100%, how do you check ?
    didn't go for a ride.
    not really one to sort shit out, just want to ride.

    yeah thats about right...  When its spot on it just hits 100% all the time.  But 90-100 is good and will work sweet.
    Use the defaults and ride the damn thing...  and do not be afraid to just hold the throttle open and give a good confidant gear shift with your foot.  

    If you do normal clutching you may feel a 'miss'which is just the shifter cutoff working so all good; youll learn to get the timing right over time for clutch shifts (not that you will be doing many to be honest)

    I rarely use the clutch from 1st the 2nd nowadays.
  • rodrocket
    rodrocket
    1 year ago
    Quoting Grease Monkey on 14 Aug 2019 08:50 AM

    Feel like I should give this unit a proper plug, this shifter works exactly like Mike says, the app is simple to use and there are heaps of settings to fine tune with and if you need any help Mike is but a call or text away and gets back to you asap.

    You can ride it easy and just run up through the gears or go like the be-jusus and slam through them, as long as the engine is pulling you can utilise a no clutch upshift.
    I asked the question on here about a shift light, Mike got back to me and you can also get an updated module that has an output that is adjustable for both rpm and time on, so you can run a shift light or an air/electric type shifter as well if you wish.
    In fact I just got off the phone with Mike after he walked me through the set up for this feature, when you have the updated module the app knows and opens up the options to set it up.
    I don't have a light as yet but will sort something asap and report back.
    If you are in the wings on this don't be scared, once it's up and running the grin factor is there, to put it into perspective price wise, people spend more on a genuine Harley led headlight and never ride at night, you use this every ride and it's a hoot.
    Get on it.

    Any more info on the updated model

    Looking to put one on a 2014 CVO Breakout


    regards

    Rod

  • Grease Monkey
    Grease Monkey
    1 year ago
    What do you want to know Rod?
  • Onequickpuck
    Onequickpuck
    1 year ago
    Quoting Grease Monkey on 14 Aug 2019 08:50 AM

    Feel like I should give this unit a proper plug, this shifter works exactly like Mike says, the app is simple to use and there are heaps of settings to fine tune with and if you need any help Mike is but a call or text away and gets back to you asap.

    You can ride it easy and just run up through the gears or go like the be-jusus and slam through them, as long as the engine is pulling you can utilise a no clutch upshift.
    I asked the question on here about a shift light, Mike got back to me and you can also get an updated module that has an output that is adjustable for both rpm and time on, so you can run a shift light or an air/electric type shifter as well if you wish.
    In fact I just got off the phone with Mike after he walked me through the set up for this feature, when you have the updated module the app knows and opens up the options to set it up.
    I don't have a light as yet but will sort something asap and report back.
    If you are in the wings on this don't be scared, once it's up and running the grin factor is there, to put it into perspective price wise, people spend more on a genuine Harley led headlight and never ride at night, you use this every ride and it's a hoot.
    Get on it.

    Quoting rodrocket on 09 Sep 2019 09:43 AM

    Any more info on the updated model

    Looking to put one on a 2014 CVO Breakout


    regards

    Rod

    Hey Rod

    The updated model capsule has an O-Ring built into it to better keep consistent tension on the internal threads so the sensor sensitivity stays the same.
    I have them in both thread types. Check yours to be sure. Some of the CVO's are course thread, 5/16" x 18.

    The last '14 CVO Breakout I put one on though had the Fine threads (5/16" x 24)

    And verify if you have the coil back by the oil tank, or a Grenade coil between the cylinders.

    Confirm all this and I'll send you payment details.

    $450. will get the whole deal, including plug-n-play wiring harness to suit - Express Airbagged to your door :)

    Cheers
    Mike

    Oh yeah, drop me an email address and I'll send you the comprehensive install manual. It's a bit over the top, but gobs of great info and settings in it.
  • Onequickpuck
    Onequickpuck
    1 year ago

    The current Installation manual......


    It IS kind of a long read, but if you are taking the leap and putting a HealTech Quickshifter on your pride and joy, please take the time to read through this.

    It has a few pointers and a lot of great settings to get you started.


    Harley iQSE Install 12-09-2019.pdf

  • Baloffski
    Baloffski
    1 year ago
    Hey Mike, thanks for the Installation data, is really comprehensive. 
    Home now and will be playing around with the shifter tomorrow. Don't anticipate any dramas , for now. 
    Many thanks for help with my fuck up, appreciated. Mick
  • Onequickpuck
    Onequickpuck
    1 year ago
    Cheers Bal!

    Did ya see the part I put in the manual just for you?  LOL   12V OUTPUT ONLY  lol    :)    All good mate!
  • Baloffski
    Baloffski
    1 year ago
    Aye Mike.
    Gear change is awesome, up and down have no issues, smooth as, but I think I was doing that anyway from memory. Nah,  happy camper,man.
    But,  now this has highlighted something I need to address, my brakes, are just about cactus,like 'throw out the anchor an pray'. 
    Next job:new pads and rear disc.
  • rodrocket
    rodrocket
    1 year ago
    Quoting Onequickpuck on 12 Sep 2019 09:35 AM

    The current Installation manual......


    It IS kind of a long read, but if you are taking the leap and putting a HealTech Quickshifter on your pride and joy, please take the time to read through this.

    It has a few pointers and a lot of great settings to get you started.


    Harley iQSE Install 12-09-2019.pdf

    thanks for the updates Mike

    here on the install manual your picture 8 shows a different style of sensor, what's the difference between these and the stainless barrel sensor.

    Also do you have any pictures of where you mounted the module on a breakout as mine seems very tight under the seat area.


    regards

    Rod

  • Onequickpuck
    Onequickpuck
    1 year ago
    Thanks for the note Rod.
    The sensor in Pic 8 is stud mounted, and that's only a requirement if you have Mid-controls on a Sporty, or Lowrider S and don't want to swap out the factory shift rod behind the primary.
    That same sensor fits inside the SS Capsule that I produce, and you thread that right on the back end of your shift linkage.

    Check these pics....

    Oh yeah, my missus and I both ride Breakouts, and the module easily fits down in the air cavity on either side of the battery.
    You don't even need to Velcro it in place. Just tuck it in and it will hang safely from the wiring harness.
    I'll post some more pics of mine later....

    When I send a unit out, the sensor is already mounted in the capsule, and I will preset the tension on the threads so you should start right off getting an excellent strong signal, which then of course gets you great shifting results.
    With your forward controls, you simply remove the shift lever and roll it back a couple splines to compensate for the extra length in the shift rod.


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