I own a 2015 FXDL Dyna Low Rider which has been on Trickle charge from Day 1 when in the Garage,
always plug it back in after riding.
Last week I went to start it and bloody thing is flat.
Charged the battery with the charger and then tried starting it, started like normal.
Yesterday I tried to start it again and nothing, dead flat.
I read the battery warranty and it says 2 years, bloody thing is 3 months out of warranty.
WTF.
My mates battery lasted 9 years in his Fatboy.

Not Happy.
Moz

Last weekend I was going away for a few days..Thursday night I checked the etec reconditioning charger and all light where lit up meaning a full battery...Went out in the morning and back to one light and wouldn't start so I went and bought a new battery to get me going. I am wondering if the reconditioning chargers charge and discharge the battery in there cycle so in my case it was at the peak of the discharge when I went to start it. Just a theory as this is the first time I had used this charger on my bike,normally just have it on an etec trickle charger and never had any problems.

You may have a case for replacement under a Statutory Warranty. I wouldn't consider that a battery that lasted only 2 years and 3 months was fit for purpose.

https://www.accc.gov.au/consumers/consumer-rights-guarantees/consumer-guarantees

Not sure if this will help but if it is de-sulphating the battery, it does not run the battery down as far as I know off, it uses high frequency AC to break the crystals down. A high enough DC charge would overheat the battery plates and distort them, and probably short them out, killing the battery.

Have a read of the owners manual for your charger, it should say what each phase does.

Some chargers have what they call an absorption phase, but none that I know of discharge the battery as part of the charging process.

Cheers

Maybe it is just a lucky dip?. Some batteries are good uns and some are not. Missus bought a brand new one for her bike once and it was completely fucked the very next day.
Perhaps it might be how you ride the bike. For example if you start it up, ride a few klms and park it for the day then start it up and ride a few klms home then that is a drain on it. Even worse if you ride a klm or 2 on the way home, stop, restart then stop restart etc.
My battery is 9 years and 7 months old. Recently went away for 5 weeks and turned the household power off which meant no trickle charger in my absence. Was fully expecting the battery to be dead on return but today the bike fired right up no worries.
Cold climates seem to be better for batteries long life too.
Not an electrical expert here and am tempted to change over to a new battery to avoid a future letdown however curiosity has got the better of me and am interested to see how long the thing lasts.

Re-reading the first post, it could be a faulty rectifier, if the bridge diodes fail it will drain the battery.

If you now have a new battery and it dies when the bike sits (not on a tender) after a couple of days that's were I would be looking.

I have had a batteries last 7+ years from new myself ( using Battery Fighter Junior brand tenders , as fitted by Frasers in WA on every new HD )

I have also replaced batteries for other dudes well younger than 7 years. Maybe 3 years the youngest.

I do recommend to owners of any bikes I work on to fit one if they're not hard wired already.

Some guys buy bikes used and don't get the actual tender passed on to them, but the bike still has the battery connection harness wired up and they don't know !

It is nearly always "the battery" itself

Once every few years it's a regulator/rectifier , once in a decade it's the alternator/stator

When you get the dreaded "clickety click" 99.9% of the time it's the battery.

As said before in many other posts the genuine HD batteries are as well priced and available as any ( tho' they're made by DEKA anyways)

Other folks have different preferences of course and that's OK 

blackmagic (u a auto sparkie ?) I have no wish to step on your toes online, but I too have a problem (Get fucked Spook! lol.) my little sojourn from Vic to SA and return, was cool, but short rides for an hour or two fuckme, battery dead as a fucken doornail. Procycle in Adelaide checked, and must say were excellento, found no issue, but is obvious culprit fugulator or stator. Not having much dollars I purchased a back me up tiny little thingo for quick start. (Re- Juma as big as mobile phone) How the fuck do you discern whether is stator or regulator, or change both for a zillion? As no one can tell until actual failure which is when happening only. I cannot afford to change both, so which way do you suggest?

If you want to rule out anything drawing power while your parked, perhaps consider installing a battery cutoff switch - If installed correctly, you would in effect remove the + feed throughout your system = also useful if/when you want to remove the battery removing any chance for a spike

Theres several around, most bulky and ugly, but if you shop around Im sure you;ll find something small/neat that wont ruin the overall look

Follow up on my Battery it looks like one of the Cells are gone, I have ordered a new Motobatt which a friend of mine recommended after he put one in his Fatboy
http://www.motobatt.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=98&year=11-12&cc=1690&manufacturer_id=34&category_id=63&model_id=626

You should be able to test the rectifier diodes, and the stator as well.

As mentioned the battery voltage should come up when the revs are raised, most newer solid state voltage regulators do not let the voltage come up much over 14 volts (if that) , one of the reasons batteries sulphate up so badly now days. However you should measure the non-running charge, then start it up and see the voltage, rev it up to around 2500 and the voltage should come up a bit more.

You will need a multi meter with diode mode to test the rectifier diode bridge, and a wiring diagram would be helpful to get the pin outs.

From what I was told when the rectifier fails it will bleed the battery down pretty quickly, in a couple of days if I remember correctly.

Guys on here who are more familiar with these systems should be able to point you in the right direction.

Cheers

Mate, have multi meter, but live in Bendigo atm. Thank you for your kind words of assistance, is cool. I have gone to google and jumped onto web at the amazing J&P cycles electrical testing breakdown . I'll follow their suggestions and see how I go, thanks mate.

Good luck mate.

They say with mechanical problems, it usually  takes no time to find the problem, but a long time to fix it, however electrical is inverse to mechanical, it can take bloody ages to find the fault, and minutes to fix it when you do :)

Good luck mate, it's not really black magic, it just feels that way.

If you were closer I would give you a hand.

Cheers

http://blog.jpcycles.com/step-by-step-instructions-for-testing-your-harleys-charging-system/

Any update Baloffski ?