I have the PV1 & very happy with its capabilities, the ability to adjust the speedo calibration was a winner for me amongst a few other little goodies available for it, the Wide Band O2 is a great addition for those who like to play on there own :)
As has already been suggested if you ever intend on putting the bike on a dyno contact the tuner & ask what he prefers to work with
Autotune basic gives about 13 to 13.2 to 1 AFR right up until 80kpa then starts to wander a bit
take not that this is AFTER the learned values are exported and flashed to the bike.
When the tuner is performing Autotuning, it is leaner, but timing is retarded 4 deg. So hurting the engine isn't really a concern.
Rule of thumb I've used is just add 5-10% more fuel in that part of the map and you got yourself a pretty good runner. You can get some weird VE spikes too but with enough "re-runs" of the AT can smooth that out pretty well. What the AT doesn't account for is some of the bonkers timing tables Dynojet give you from the library. Some of them I shake my head at, some are pretty good but I like to start cautiously and wind the wick up incrementally saving a new tune each increment. Run it for a bit logging the ride, then exporting into the good old log viewer software and seeing how It went. It's a long process but something I kind of enjoy doing.
I'm lucky to have access to a dyno pretty much whenever I want and have the Target tune module, but for your average "stage 1" I think AT basic is fine, get a good starting map from Fuel Moto and you will be amazed how good you can get one to run with a bit of time.
When you have bigger cubes, cams or a combo that is a bit out of the ordinary the target tune is brilliant, just can be a pain in the ass to wire into some bikes like sporties where the widebands can foul the bike and hiding all the modules under the already cramped seat area.
SERT is great when on the dyno and have all the cables connected running live, but as a DIY tuner it's not the most user friendly IMO.