steelo.loftyb,jocky,squidy,b.bob,rodders,and others,, sometimes l dont  have the camera with me, so lots dont get shown here, as well as not answering the replies, usually  wander down the shed and make a start on the bits l feel like doing at that time,(after laying in bed the night before thinking about how to?) couldnt tell you how many man hours are spent on it but its a lot, there hasnt been a part on the bike that doesnt need repair or replacement,seems the bikes had a full life and ridden into the ground,, a bikes story,, it good to see, ,,im not a mechanic , sheet metal worker or machinist, its a hobby.. and liking this project a lot, so its going to be based on the civilian model , not a 100 point resto but just what l like and will be happy with, 

And modest too!! Keep up the good work. Plenty of help and interest on this site.

Well done Brian , great to see your collection growing 

I wish I had kept my barn find now

Nice  stuff  kickinon...you obviously  have  some  good skills  and  ability  there even if it is a  hobby. Like  myself it's  a bit  of a  hobby  but my build  has turned into a passion "with  limited  skills " keep  up the good work. Jocky 

 front mount on frame that holds the "T"had been removed,   this will be the replacement
got a good start in the pipe vice but it started to distort the steel

finished the bend in a hydraulic press & clamp, much better ,

sanded a bit of paint of the frame where its to be welded & clamped in place.

left it a bit longer until the seat T bar holes are drilled,& its in place as a guide , l can work out how high and round the top off the steel then..

this is the cover that was on the bike so ill use it, marked out for the 2 slots that need to be cut.so slides over the new front mount...

nuts and bolts i'll change later for nicies, but thats it..

front and rear wheels are in poor shape, be getting re painted hubs, new internals, spokes, rims, tyres..

the rear guard is an original and worth repairs,

picked up a pair of ex war surplus plates and $5 of flat bar to make the rear struts

installed the guard with the chrome struts it came with to hold the correct shape, bent n cut the flat bar to suit what looks like it should be..ish.
keeping the hinged section in place as well, temporarily bolting it together until happy with it all, l tac welded it together under the guard and to the war plates
removed it from bike flipped it over and finished off,

lots of existing holes ,dents, rust to fix up, .....

scrounged through my bucket of veranda bolts n nuts. need 8 rivets to put in the bottom strut holes,,,

turned in lathe to resemble the rivets l couldn't find out there to buy...and probably wouldn't anyway..

they are cut to lenth and installed now,,but don't have photo to show...

l looked around for a wl civilian front guard, got a shock at the price, l bought a 1948 panhead replica item at a bit less than 1/2 the price.
l new there'd be issues with fitting it, but the tin looks the same size and shape as the wla. so any work to do on it would be getting the struts to fit right,

it should have fitted between the forks but it didn't ,its wedged in there, needs 8mm narrowing(4mm per side)
also the struts are wider at the bottom because knucklehead/panhead lower rockers are on the outside of the forks,
flatheads are on the inside of the forks as the picture shows, no biggy!..

to narrow the struts grind the back off the 4 front rivets(2each side) kept them to re-install later, l didnt take photos but used timber blocks & clamps
& heat to bend the struts inward the 30mm each side to line up with the mounting points,, l squeezed a 4mm plate in between the tin and the forks to get
a 4mm gap on each side so no rubbing when the fork moves up and down, heated it evenly around the curves and struts until it holds its shape,
doesnt take a lot of heat,
re-drilled the rivet holes to line up, re-installed the rivets id removed before,  tac welded them on from the inside,
Both guards are ready for sanding,/ paint prepping.

Just a dumb question from a novice mate,

its looking good

wheels are finished and  installed temporarily. so l can wheel it around,get it up on the bike lift, its easier to work on ,
the rear brake pedal bush and its backing plate pin  are worn out, the pin(welded to the plate needs to be removed) is hardened steel and difficult to machine l managed a fine cut using a tungsten tip tool in the lathe,
just to get some roundness back in it, the pedal is one piece and doesn't have a replaceable bush,  l made a jig to hold it level in the drill press and drilled a 3/4 inch hole through ,that's about the maxi-mine sized hole  l could get , that way l  turned up a steel bush in the lathe at 3/4"+ o.d.  and pressed it in the pedal with the right sized i.d. hole , re-welded the pin back onto the plate,, its not flopping around now,
worn out rear brake backing plate brake cam and pivot stud copped the same treatment, some other nuts,bolts ,washers, that are unique to this are done as well,
cant put up all the photo's of the build just to many and take to long, 

nice.....

Been thinking about a top coat colour  for a while now, when l started this l had that deep dark blue you see on 1948 panheads in mind,been wanting to do that colour on an old springer bike for a while, i've changed my mind  and will be using the paint left overs l have to make some type of war bike green, not the olive drab they came with but similar, i'll mix some colours together until l think it will do,,  

at the moment its the one above the light green second from the bottom right.
but ill let it dry to check the finish,,  the blue ive used to mix with the yellow to make the green is a metalic paint l bought 13 years ago for my 1975 shovelhead,it hasnt hardened and in good usable condition, just not sure how its going to turn out with a bit of fleck in the finish,,??

Do it in some sort of camo. Would look brilliant cleared over the top  

i've gone with a dark green , painted the rear/front guards, happy with it, the rear cylinders back from repairs,around the exhaust port area, its had  a hole drilled through to hold the exhausts on front and rear but in this case its broke a piece out of the rear,

a piece of suitable cast iron was machined from round stock and fitted to the damaged shape,the cracked fin was welded as well, 

the round tube to keep its shape whilst welding,,thanks John a good job...

front and back guards are in 2pac primer, waiting on the tank emblem kit and the weld on backings for them before l can do the tanks..

the axle holes in the fork rockers have elongated ,and the wheel was moving up and down ,drilled an over sized hole ,machined a plug fit bush and pressed it in,

drilled the right sized hole back in the center of it, front wheels on for now...

We're overdue an update on this mate.

o.k.
l ordered an after market exhaust system, it didnt fit, needed to be cut up , and added to in other places, waste of money,should have used the straight outs  it came with and made the parts l needed to make it a 2 into 1 system,

the cylinders have gone out to have new valves fitted ,and maybe a rebore , they should be back next week.
im going to run a mikuni 34mm carb instead of the linkert, ,should be here about the time l get the cylinders back,
i'll do a mock up and see whats involved to run the standard internal throttle and standard air cleaner set up ,

started machining the adapter spigot (wla to mikuni )from a hunk of alloy, 1 1/4" inlet hole as original..