I just went to repco payed $68.00 for a new torque wrench, went home and started to do up my primary as I just changed the oil.  As my work shop manual has not yet arived,I went to youtube found a guy showing how it was done and recons 12 foot foot pounds for primary cover nuts. I had done them up the night before just nipped up nice, and was now supprised with my new torque wrench at how far I was tightening them and snap broke it of . I set the tool to what I though was 9 how have I fucked up....
Thanks bloodog

 

 

"Primary cover nuts" , you mean the derby cover bolts ?

10Nm , no more , that's 10 Newton/metres.

The 5/8 "sump" bolt is 15 Ft/Lbs MAX m I usually set them at 13Ft/Lbs

You've got it set closer to 18 ft-lbs.
You need to do a little research on how to use/set a torque wrench.
If you look at the first number near the adjuster, it says 20.7
You bought the wrong size torque wrench .

Should be a 3/8" or a 1/4" for smaller bolts.
The larger units either don't go low enough, or aren't accurate enough in the lower limits.

shitt thats bad luck looks like its just shy of 20 ft-lbs

Hi BD. Sorry to hear.

I doubt that those cheap 1/2 drive torque wrenches would be actuate at the lower scale .

inch pounds vs foot pounds. I have a small more accurate unit for the small bolts and a large one for the big ones like axle nuts etc.

Yep you got it set at 18 or so f/p as said.

Just remember if you feel as if your putting to much force on something when tightening,
you probably are.

I searched on here for broken bolt read a few lads experiences  had a think.....
went back out to bike pulled of the cover got a small thin punch tapped the broken thread around and she came out piece of piss yeeeeharrr
I was feeling pretty shitty with my self  .... and now I have been out got new bolt $2.00 taken back torque wrench to shop for full refund spirts are high again, now looking on ebay for a 3/8 torque wench around $100.00 maybe a good used one 

Thank you HD search 

Just tighten them without it,

The best torque Wrench for inch pounds.

Warren and Brown, got a couple of these. either 3/8" or 1/4" Drives

 

Classic mistake...inch punds instead of foot pounds. Rarely do I ever use a TQ wrench except for the more important stuff like heads etc. Things like primary cover bolts etc just do by hand.

A technique that can help is to use a 1/4" ratchet with an extension.
It makes it very hard to overtighten things.

Torque wrenches only come in 2 brands, Warren Brown or SnapOn. Everything else is garbage, might as well just guess.

You will need at least 3 to do all jobs. 1/2" 3/8" and 1/4" drive.

They are designed to be accurate in the middle of their range.

Im gunu go by feel for now { Thank you }, and until I do not feel confenident to judge the tightness, then I will buy one with a bit more experiance in hand 

Merry christmas........ Cunt faces  Its pissy time 

Great news. I saw this, this morning and new you were going to be fucking pissed off.So, I didnt say anything. Went out and just come back, good news BD and have a merry Christmas.

+1, inherited from my father- priceless bit of kit.

 

Hi guys , you can take or leave what I am about to say ,but I do this stuff for a living , people pay me to get it right , the way to minimize errors is to use all tools and information that is correct for the job at hand before you start ,and have the relevant manual open and followed whilst performing a job,,,and yes ,,,after even nearly 40 years I still have a manual open for the relevant model or fitment bulletins or whatever information a manufacturer deems necessary for a successful outcome.
For every fastener there is a specification, no exceptions, all information is in the factory manual for every fastener including whether the fastener has a retaining compound or lubricant involved in its fit up, or could be a one shot fastener , and a torque sequence and or specification.
When I am assembling anything, there is no worse feeling than a fastener that is being torqued to spec starting to feel it creep and not come up on feel of positive resistance to the torque being applied. This is almost always caused by the thread bore/fastener being damaged previously from over tightening or abuse. On some assemblies I will torque up an assembly before starting any remedial work to see if a thread will pull as some of the older stuff has a bit of a history of pulling threads ,this can all be inserted, Heli coiled or weld and machined before any overhaul takes place.
I have included a photo of the torque wrenches that are used here ,ranging from the inch pound Warren& Brown through to the 600lb Blue Point ,and finally the Norbar torque multiplier and everything in between , there is also a picture of the Loctite products that I use ,each has a specific application ,some are used a lot and others rarely ,but they are all necessary for specification ,there is no one grade that does all. I wouldn’t expect anyone other than another person in my environment to have this range of equipment.
I understand a lot of guys like to work on their own gear and love to learn as they go or build on an ability that already exists, and feel a personal satisfaction in completing a task successfully, in my experience this can be achieved repeatedly but I found many many years ago the repeat ability came from sticking to a regime of accuracy.

Thanks Hoodeng. Very sobering but timely advice. Regards