Online: Hilly

S & S sportster

  • swamprat
    swamprat
    8 years ago

    Can anyone tell me the correct oil capacity for S & S sportster crankcased gearbox , oil is seperate from primary , no level hole of dipstick , i filled primary first then used the remainder of the oil to fill gearbox through hole for speedo sensor ( 450ml is what i put in there but would like to know the correct amount )cant find any info on S & S sight

     

  • daddyracer56
    daddyracer56
    8 years ago

    mate da g/box oil is da primary oil same as better drain out from da bottom pri drain plug under left side of clutch housing & start again , fill thru da primary inspection hole in da top of pri cover da little 1 with da 2 little screws in it fill just 1 full ltr only, what model bike do ya have ,

  • swamprat
    swamprat
    8 years ago
    on these S & S cases the trap door seperates the primary from the transmission , 91 to 03 style cases
  • daddyracer56
    daddyracer56
    8 years ago

    Da trap door has cutaways in it for da oil to pass

    is this a complete S&S Sporty, these engines cum with no g/box or pri you must use ya own stock parts or email S&S tech help line 

  • daddyracer56
    daddyracer56
    8 years ago

    street or race bike , who built da engine

  • swamprat
    swamprat
    8 years ago
    S & S trapdoor sealed no cut outs , just found info on xl forum 18oz primary 10oz gearbox
  • daddyracer56
    daddyracer56
    8 years ago

    i wouldn't be going too far with only 10 oz in da g/box

  • Hoodeng
    Hoodeng
    8 years ago
    Hello Swamprat ,
    The correct amount for each section is , Primary oil US 10-12oz [standard fill and drain locations] ,and the Trans section is US 12oz [fill through vent pipe fitting or speedo pickup and drain from dedicated drain plug under trans ] this is according to my S&S 51-1050 Sportster case instructions. When servicing, monitor the capacity's drained from each section and make sure they are exactly the same as the quantity that was used to fill ,this will monitor the integrity of the seal between the door , bearings and o rings etc , this is especially relevant if you are using a trans fluid which may not be clutch compatible .
    I built one of these for myself nearly 18 years ago as a 100" motor [case set #28] with STD heads that i got as blanks from my old mate Dan Baisley that had his runners cast in ,the rest was a bit of a "The who's who" of fast bits , did 123hp after Lushy twisted some screws here and there for a few hours, we discovered the exhaust was holding it back on the top end , i did another exhaust system ,,,damn thing was that loud it nearly made my ears bleed , so i put the system it was tested with back on.
    After some close calls i sold it [its habit of speedway sliding on bitumen when turning corners caught me out a couple of times] , way out of my league to ride!!

    Cheers.
  • swamprat
    swamprat
    8 years ago
    thanks for the replies , 100' sounds like a good bit of fun , ive put a set of 1'3/4"drag pipes on mine to get it running but not happy with with top end or noise ,will try to modify my supertrap 2into1 to fit until i get time to build up a bigger diameter system
  • Hoodeng
    Hoodeng
    8 years ago

    What capacity is your engine ? 1 3/4" id header pipes are way too big [i tried them] and will screw up tuning,unless you have a very large engine operating at very high rpm , stick with the 1 5/8" id header pipes and get it on a dyno.


  • swamprat
    swamprat
    8 years ago

    89" sidewinder kit i think S & S call it , sorry i was refering to the outside diameter , have just made my supertrap 2 into 1 fit , on the dyno power flattened off over 5ooo rpm with the drag pipes , running 555 cams so should still be building power over 5000 rpm

  • Hoodeng
    Hoodeng
    8 years ago
    That engine should pull through 6500rpm and make power there quite easily. The two into one unmolested should work up to that as well .
    Without seeing the bike and going through a process of elimination, all opinions are exactly that, "opinions" , I have found in the past going back to the start has been beneficial ,and checking and confirming the likes of power supplies , comp test , leakage test ,fuel supply/carburation etc etc for their integrity, do a written record of your process and findings {invaluable} .
    Piss off and bin any gimmicks like ,torque cones , fuel turbolators ,strange electrical add on's ,other peoples dreams ,etc.
    When any job starts to throw up random or persistent quandaries ,,,,,,walk out of the workshop ,do something else for a while ,walk back in and treat the job like you have never seen it before and start at the start without any " someone has already checked that" thoughts in your head. And if it gets over your head don't be hesitant to consult people/businesses with a track record in professional outcomes.

    You can and will work it out.
  • swamprat
    swamprat
    8 years ago
    Thanks Hoodeng for the advice , the bike is a sand drag bike , will be racing this weekend so will see what it is like on the track & go from there , cheers