Purchased a st of HD "Street Slammer" bars for the Fatboy from one of our South Oz Forum members, Odin ,the other day, and I've got to thank him for his brilliant quick delivery. It's always exciting when you buy a new bit of kit for the bike, and you like to get it fitted up asap. So , thanks to Odin, I had a brand spanking new set of bars (still in it's original packaging), delivered in 2 days, for a very reasonable price! I'd read a lot of good reports about these bars, and even though the factory bars aren't too bad in the comfort stakes, these bars ,for me (5'10" put me in a perfect relaxed riding position, with the ability of popping the wind shield on & off as the mood suits. Took roughly 5 hours from whoa to go by myself, with the hardest part threading the indicator wiring looms through the right angle bends of the bars. I used a nail bent in a gradual curve pushed into some hollow fly wire window rubber to find the correct path through the bars, then duct taped the looms to the rubber when it appeared at the other end and slowly feed the looms through. Use what you've got hanging around, I reckon. The factory says you have to dismantle the looms from the plugs, etc., etc., but this way is much quicker and less fiddly. Even better , all it costs is your own time, and a couple of frothies while your doing it! To access the plugs in the main loom, I undid the tank bolts and popped off the fuel petcock line so I could drag the tank back and expose the plugs. The leads are the the finnicky part, the rest is straight forward remove and replace and patience if you own a set of torx keys and basic tools. I 've attached some pics to show the process in case someone wanted to have a crack themselves. The bars look bloody fantastic, and even better, make the bike even more pleasurable to ride! Bring on the Muppet Run!

Undo your left and right controls by removing all relevant torx screws.

Remove front tank bolt.

Remove rear tank screw.

Remove the speedo console and sender unit breather pipe.

Pop off the fuel line to the tank. Do it quickly, you woon't loose any juice.

After the tank's moved back , you can unplug the looms easily.

Pull the looms up and out of the triple tree.

Slowly pull out the looms from the bars.

On the Fatboy, you need to undo the side fork plates to gain access to the riser bolts.

I used a small wrecking bar to stop the factory risers turning while you're undoing the retaining bolts.

The bottom of the risers use a 3/4" bolt.

Bolt up the new bars using the original bushes (if they're still in good nick.)

Once all the looms are fed through, if you want to change grips, you'll need to slacken off the accelerator cables . Then you can release both cables and re-install them on the new grip ( be careful you don't drop the brass nipples as they're a bastard to find again!!!)
Five hours later, the finished product ready to road test.

You will get more for her now mate when you trade for a Tourer.

Might have to have both, like you mate!

good stuff Winger. good to see you didnt mess around getting them on. At least I can see what they would have looked like on my Fatty. It was a pleasure doing business with you

Fitted mine up myself too winger. Fiddly but a satisfying job. I'm about the same height as you and I too find them a comfortable bar. I've actually done the job twice now as I upgraded to some thicker diameter bars. (Never happy) pics of mine in my profile. Nice job mate.

I did contemplate Burleigh Bars for their extra thickness , Binnsy, but the price got me a bit shy. As you say , very comfortable, and looking forward to see how they feel after a longer stretch. Good to hear from another  RED Fatboy owner. It's better than listening to all my smart arse fellow bagger Forumites.

I did my bars myself as well with the help of my son in law who is a sparky. It was undoing the wiring connector pins that would have stopped me but with his assistance I had a go. Mine were a 6" rise I think and we had a lot of trouble getting the wires through on 1 side, then on the second we removed the factory wire sleeve and just taped the wires up and they went straight through.I think it took about 4 hrs. I was lucky that when the bars were on they only just cleared the speedo otherwise I would have had to pull the lot apart again. I have since installed a 1" riser spacer set that gives a more generous clearance. The standard bars gave me pain in the wrist but since putting these bars on I dont feel a thing, a big improvement and they look great as well

You hit the nail on the head, Binnsy  : Patience !!!! Your a lucky bugger having a sparky as a son in law ,Tom. Pulling the connector pins apart was what I was dreading, as I did it that way with my old Heritage when I fitted the beach bars. I found this way to be far less complicated, personally, but , a free sparky, why not!!! Bars look great ,mate.