Trying to pick a cam in the rev range i want - looked at a lot of dyno charts at what point on a dyno chart is a cam coming on

Depends on the cam. Also remember torque happens a lot early than max power. I run SE204's and max power is at 5,500, yet max torque is at 3,400 - 3,600, which is where it pulls the hardest. In saying that though mine makes 90ft-lb at 2,500 so has plenty of pull from there.

Depends on the EXHAUST as well and the tune.

One of the best by far is the stock staggered dual two into two headers with balance pipe ,replace the rear pipe for an even freer system with a 65825-06,65825-10 or whichever non active exhaust pipe relates to your model, these are inexpensive new from your preferred dealer , and a set of S&S taper turbo mufflers give excellent performance and tuning facility not to mention easier on the ears and less likely to be a police magnet .The original heat shields can be reinstalled on the S&S if you want.
For engines with a potential above 130hp a 28/30mm dart pressed through the baffles will free things up a bit, but the above system might be meeting its match at high hp capabilities.
With a little engineering this system can be retro fitted to a number of other models [recently installed one on my mates modified 103 Fat Bob] which incidentally was initially tuned with a Big Radius, this system totally transformed the bike.

Obviously there are a lot of other great performance options out there but the one above is a tried and dyno proven item that possibly you already own half of. And don’t forget the induction, as Nev has pointed out in the past, “if it looks like a tomb stone it will probably have a similar effect on performance”

Your initial question about ‘Cam coming on ‘ will need more information provided to give an appropriate cam choice answer , engine capacity ,compression , head flow to match required performance level , intended use , etc , but I would say if a bike felt like the cam “came on” so to speak would in my thought be over cammed or under tuned.

Stock 103 with Bassani Road Rage and SE Air Filter riding between 2000 rpm - 4500 rpm - Cruising at 110km/h sits at 2500 revs

Have been trying to compare Andrews 57h, Woods 222, Tman 555 Tourqster, S&S 583

Hi Brett , your choice of cams is quite reasonable for the stocky 103” there is not a huge difference between three of them and one is a bit of a standalone ,,, here goes,, the 57H , and Tman Torquester555 are very similar and will give similar results ,as is the Tman 555 and the Woods 222 ,if you look at the close point of the inlet {this is where cranking pressure starts being generated } 35-40° , 35° will make more pressure than 40° so will influence early torque more , the later you close the less pressure = slightly lower torque , but here is where the over caming statement comes in ,close later than the compression ratio is happy with will make the bike feel like it’s ‘coming on like a two stroke ‘ your bike in this state of tune could feel quite aggressive and exciting to ride but if you were in a drag race against a bike with similar characteristics ,but a cam matched to the comp he will be in front of you from the launch {torque turns the tyre } now the catch up game starts ,a lot of guys will pin the throttle in the hope of making up track and run the engine to rpm that is not doing much , wave goodbye to your buddy!
The S&S with 18°close will make the most torque at low rpm out of all of them ,I am not a fan of big cranking pressures as it presents tuning and running issues when at high ambient temperatures , I find the numbers on this cam a bit quirky as 5-18° inlet is all about low end torque and the exhaust 58-24° is from a whole different animal of a cam designed for mid upper rpm efficiency , but , S&S are not in the business of making trinkets or baubles to impress children ,there would be sound reasons for them to offer this product ,,I’m thinking its more for a dresser with a shitty exhaust .
Cam choice for some is dictated by the gearbox fitted to their bike, some guys don’t like {or refuse to} change gears so an early torque cam is for them, I can’t imagine riding a bike like this as this is not what the manufacturer intended, that’s why he put the thing in the bike in the first place and put so many different cogs in it. Pulling the throttle to the stop at 2000rpm to pass traffic just because someone can I find odd ,but that’s just me ,back a few gears and into a sweet spot is more fun anyway.
As bolt in’s go the 57H, 555, 222 and Torque 555 are all good, and so it’s more if you have a preference of manufacturer to influence your choice.
As for the pipe choice, there are the spend and defend group who will argue the merits of this or that manufacturers pipe to hell and back and there are guys who just want a certain look regardless of influence on their bikes performance,,, no one guy is right ,, at the end of the day it’s all about what you personally want, but if your bike does not perform as well as was expected or as good as your mates similar bike the plumbing {or tune} is probably the culprit.
I will say one thing here ,in the past we have found Big Radius pipes have a lesser effect on stock bikes or minor modified than on performance modified engines ,and it goes the bigger and badder the engine gets the more the BR will hold it back ,,Vance and Hines never meant the BR pipe to be used in this application and offer a whole bunch of plumbing options that suit modified engines ,and yes the BR 2 into 1 is a better pipe, but not the best .

Here’s something similar - 103 Dyna, std compression, no head work; stock staggered dual two into two headers with balance pipe (removed active exhaust valve completely from stock pipe) and a set of S&S taper turbo mufflers; S&S Stealth Air Filter Kit with standard 103 cover; Andrews 50H 4 degrees advanced; 30T Primary Sprocket & Police Clutch Spring.

 

Great torque curve & rides real nice.  Was trying different heat range & plug types here (settled on NGK DCPR7EIX).

Hi Fontana,
You probably won't want to mess around with heat ranges on the plugs ,as they are more about the temp range the engine finds itself running in . Basically what happens with plugs is that they want to have their electrode/porcelain running at about 400° as this is it's self cleaning temperature , if the core does not get to this temperature the plug will build up deposits to the point it will miss fire {extended tip plugs have broader road use heat capability} , if the core runs into much higher temps it will cause pre ignition as it is now behaving as a glow plug {not to be confused with detonation which is uncontrolled combustion caused by pressure waves}
If the engine's design has it running relatively cool for a given ambient temp it will have a heat range plug in the hotter end of the ranges ,and if an engine has a tendency to run relatively hot it will have a plug from the cooler end of the heat ranges , as the aim is to keep the plug in the 400° zone.
The plugs installed by the manufacturer are not a hit or miss choice ,they are arrived at by extensive testing and this includes prolonged high load testing, so if you find a bone white blistered porcelain and an eroded ground strap, that observation would dictate a colder plug , as your plug testing was at wide open throttle only you might see some variation in your outputs but on the road unless proven necessary stick with the std heat range,but if you find the evidence that supports a change ,do so.
Cheers.