Online: Hilly

Stator and Charging

  • red_101au
    red_101au
    8 years ago

    Hi all

    I have noticed my bike has been running a little rough and seems to lack top end power

    the occasional misfire etc...

    I have had a play with the carby adjusting the idler and air/fuel mixture screws and got it damn close to specs.

    I have noticed also that the battery does not seem to be charging so I ran a few tests and wanted a second opinion on the readings.

    I am pretty sure the stator maybe frecked....

    Battery - without ignition:      12.64     (battery is good but low)

    battery -  ignition on:            12.54

    Battery engine running:        12.36

    Stator output @ 1000 rpm:   29.90  -  30.00   (fluctuating)

    Stator output @ 2000 rpm:   45.20    (fairly constant)

    stator continuity:                 nil

     

    any feedback on these readings would be appreciated

    Red

  • robnicko
    robnicko
    8 years ago
    Battery voltage with engine running should be around the 14.3V range
  • red_101au
    red_101au
    8 years ago

    well.....

    decided to bite the bullet and just buy new stator and regulator and be done with it...

    at the least I will be able to rule them out as a problem and at the most it may fix it  :)

    I am suspect that the charging system is not working as the voltage output is too high and has negative impact on the battery

    also noticed when I am riding and switch ignition from "on" position to "lights" there is a fraction of a second loss of power and a jolt in the ride.

    will keep you all posted

    cheers

    Red

  • perthhog
    perthhog
    8 years ago
    Yep regs for the bin I would only use Oem or cycle electric have cycle electric full system On one of my bikes
    And just reg on the other no matter what brand you use Make sure it has good earth on the frame and clean the paint
    Of the reg where the nuts bolt down onto it Should be around the 13.5 to 13.7 for your bike (carbie) probley
    More for a later efi bike and as for momentary lost power from ignition to lights that's normal on evo bikes
    It's the design of the ignition switch pole type it can be a bit better if you use a after market electronic type
  • red_101au
    red_101au
    8 years ago

    thanks for the info perthhog

    whilst doing the shopping list lol

    I was also browsing the programmable ignition system.....

    maybe later when finances permit :)

    as for the ignition switch... that was another thing I was curious about

    am I able to use the newer style round security key ignitions or are they different setup?

     

    Red

  • bobby bob
    bobby bob
    8 years ago
    Posted By red_101au on 20 Jun 2016 10:21 PM

    thanks for the info perthhog

    whilst doing the shopping list lol

    I was also browsing the programmable ignition system.....

    maybe later when finances permit <img src=" border="0" src="/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/_default/emoticons/smile.gif" />

    as for the ignition switch... that was another thing I was curious about

    am I able to use the newer style round security key ignitions or are they different setup?

     

    Red

     g'day RED, i am a Pirie resident and have (last winter ) replaced charging system on my 87 evo, also fixed the cut out when turning lights on, .If you need any advice on evo pm me.

     

     

  • red_101au
    red_101au
    8 years ago

    G'day Bob

    good to know another local I can hassle for assistance...

    we need to get together sometime for a natter and ride  :)

    and thanks for the offer

    Red

  • red_101au
    red_101au
    8 years ago

    thanks perthhog

    do we need to replace electrics etc to modify the switch at all

    or is it just a clean swap out?

     

    Red

  • red_101au
    red_101au
    8 years ago

    thanks Bangkok Bob

    message heard and recieved....

    I really have no problem with the original ignition switch, I was only thinking for security that the round one would serve better protection.

    as for the delay when switching, I can understand the reason for it now too

    as it is being turned it is disconnecting one contact point to engage another

    so temporary power loss is to be expected

    thanks for the input and I will stay with original

    it has lasted all these years and I have no reason to doubt it will continue to work   :)

     

    Red

  • perthhog
    perthhog
    8 years ago
    Even the Oem ones wear out bob that's why you use to be able to by the plate for the pole type switch
    Separately for when yours is worn out , as for the slight lost of power I agree with you once your awhere of it it's no big deal
  • red_101au
    red_101au
    8 years ago

    another thought on the lack of power
    I recently replaced the exhaust system
    the system that was on the bike when I got it had no baffles in the mufflers

    and was extremely loud, I know loud is good so others can hear you coming

    but these sounded like fire crackers going off and definetly a cop puller.

    I have since changed the whole system with baffled mufflers
    I can only assume this would be creating higher back pressure and may be choking the engine
    which brings me to my next question....

    Would I be right in my assumption that the jets would probably have been changed in the carby to suit the old exhaust system
    and now need to be replaced to cater to a baffled system?