I received the Fatty with a set of SE Slip ons which were far too quiet for my liking. After a bit of research, I ended up buying a set of Firebrand 3" Loose Cannons which are made by a couple of fellas that moved on from Vance and Hines to form their own company. Looks wise, they are different to most ,and maybe not everyone's choice, but more importantly, I love 'em and the deep throaty sound they emit. The only drawback has been the large amount of decel popping on roll off, which becomes bloody annoying after a while. After talking to Alex at Adelaide Bike Works, it was decided to book her in for a dyno , which he believed would eliminate the popping and have the added advantage of picking up a few more horses with a different map to suit the new pipes and filter. (I know most people recommend Lushy down at Victor, but it's a fair hike to drop the bike off and pick up , when you can get it done locally.) I asked that the power mainly kick in through the mid range for passing and hilly stuff, and it appears ,by the graph to have achieved that result. While not huge increases ( not expected with minimal changes) there is more usable grunt in the ranges I want it most. While it was there ,I also asked them to turn off the accuator in the ECM and keep the valve jammed? open all the time. Any body had that annoying, tinny rattle that comes with the valve opening? Doesn't serve any purpose, as far as I can see, apart from recognising Yank emmision rules. Seat of the pants, seems to feel like a real healthy power lift with a quick roll on, compared to the stock settings. I'm still to get a chance out in the boonies to get a real feel for that mid range, but really looking forward to a good long run in the Brass Balls in July to see what the end result is. Some very slight popping, but nowhere near as bad as before, and probably easily controlled with a different roll off procedure. Eventually , some cams, a 2 into 1 , and a heavy breather will be purchased, but small steps. The guys at ABW were, as always ,friendly and efficient, and this has got to be the only shop you'll ever go into where your bike's clean, but comes out show clean after Steve ,their detailer has finished with it. Very impressed with all aspects of this shop, from Blair ,the owner, and everyone else involved.
Just thought i would point out, the Dyno is set @ STD most dyno print outs i see now for Harleys are all STD so who know's why? but because it is STD not set @ SAE if there is a weather change it will efect the numbers so can't do a direct comparision. could ask dyno opperator to set at sae for both see what that shows but the Humidity was about 10% difference between the two runs and the corection was 1.01 for one run & 1.00 for the other. dyno opperators can do that .just thought i would point this out.
The gains were not necessarily the main thing I targeted. The decel popping was the major concern, and any increases in solving that issue were welcome. The cost was around $300, which I thought was reasonable for a dyno set up. I realise STD is a power correction to reference conditions which incorporate higher pressure and cooler air than the SAE standard, and that SAE will always give more realistic numbers. In saying that, I accept that these STD power numbers will always be about 4% higher than SAE. I was a little bemused as to why the correction number changed between runs, but ,possibly, it may be just to inflate the numbers on the work they did to give you a sense of achievement!. For me, I used the dyno to get the bike in the best running condition I could after fitting the slip ons and having the bike run in. What counts to me, is how it feels when I ride. I wanted, ultimately, the best numbers to stay through the area I ride 90% of the time. It put a smile on my dial, so it was worth every cent.
thanks for that
your right speedy its a fair $
