So I used the test feature.  Bike started first touch, but the test feature said yellow start?  Wtf?  Other than a sluggish battery (this is a new battery) what can cause this?

I just want to eliminate the yellow before it becomes a red...

Did you give it a a 24 hr charge before trying to start with the battery only ? It pays to which a new battery as you never no
It may have sat on the shelf. For 6 mths before you got it , All so is this the replacement deker for the one you mention a week or so back in another thread ?

Just was watching a vid that suggested that startpower test doesn't only mean a power battery, it just means a (however small) fault somewhere in the charging system. But at least I know it's not the alternator coz that test comes back green. Good thing I have NFI what I'm doing in this area

Take the battery out of the bike and charge it in a dry place than if your concerned about the rain , and yep it sounds like it lol

Before you attempt to do any sought of testing give the battery a full charge first

Charged the crap out of the battery and it passed all the tests I know of, but I still haven't tried the Ctek test and charge again. Resting voltage 13.025 (might have been slightly more I was distracted), starting voltage dropped to 10.5 and running voltage of 14.200 (ish) - so all good. I need to figure out how to do the stator ohm test and after I recharge it up I'll try the test & charge again. It's annoying to think their could be something wrong, however small.

 

Oh, and people have suggested I take it for a good run, then recharge and try it again.  Making sure the battery has done some work so it will take a better charge.  Often on "good runs" I find it hard to stop for anything, except gas 

Check your volts output at idle and also at revs 2500to 3000rpm you don't want any more than 14.5 ,7 at revs
Or it will cook the battery if is higher than you will have to do tests on reg and stator

I tested the running voltage at 14.2 (as above). My riding around town voltage was the same, though when I stopped after a fair ride and restarted I noticed it was showing 13.9V, which I think it still fine. I'll recharge it up (or make sure it's at max) and run some other test which ends in me going for a test ride

Yep seen your 14.2 but was that at idle or revs if it was at revs that's a bit low

gday bonkerz.
if your max running voltage is between 13.7 and 14.5 v then that will be good ,14v to 14.5v is a bit better as the battery is getting a good charge .any higher indicates a dodgy regulator and as has been pointed out will "boil " you battery which as we know is not good. might i suggest you organise an amperage draw test on you system when cranking takes place,if your starter has wear in the bushes of any sort this will create " poling ' which will draw usable amps when cranking leaving less for the actual cranking. this all applies for bikes /cars etc in general [12v systems that is]. most alternators in general should be able to deliver max charging voltage at or a bit above idle providing idle isnt to low. hope this is helpful cheers