Big Bore Kits

  • Outcast
    Outcast
    8 years ago

    I posted this in the Tourer section but, didn't get any response so, I'll try here in case someone has some general experience/advice from similar work done on their own twin cam.

    I need to get the topend refreshed (valve seals & rings) due to my 2004 Road King (Carburetted model) burning oil; it's done 92,000km. Considering whilst it is apart, sticking a big bore kit into it & maybe cams aimed at good solid mid range torque.Does anyone have any experiences with big bore kits for a carbureted TC88, 2004 Road King or similar

    Any recommendations, prices (ie: what is a reasonable cost), should I include Cams in the upgrade or are there better options to consider (other than buying a new bike, which I can't afford).

    Thankyou in advance

  • robots
    robots
    8 years ago
    I not sure what ci you can take the 88ci too, maybe 95ci? but definitely do everything at once like cams etc

    If you can't be stuffed, get the stuff fixed/replaced, buy the pipe and cam
  • Ando
    Ando
    8 years ago
    95ci or 98ci rebore on your stock barrels, heads get guides inspected seals change, valve seat done and decked to set compression in cam you pic
  • Outcast
    Outcast
    8 years ago
    Cheers Gents,

    I have a Freedom Performance Union 2 into 1 pipe coming (courtesy of Fatbat); any recommendations on a Cam? Looking for a bit more grunt across the whole rev range rather than top speed increase.

    Hadn't thought about reboring stock barrels, assume that would be a relatively cheaper option than new barrels?
  • Hudson76
    Hudson76
    8 years ago

    Here is a convo between my engine builder and me RE: specs and price on a 95" build for my '01 Heritage.

     

     bore and hone your pots and fit SE  pistons 10.25 comp (actually went with 9.6 in the end)

    gaskets cometic

    new high volume oil pump , standard cam plate fine , new cam chain tensioners

    cams to suit compression ratio  + lifters+cam bearings (Crane 302 cams, similar spec to SE204 or S&S 583)

    port work on heads and 5 angle seat and valve work , you model has very restrictive exhaust port so lot of time removeing metal for improvement

    new cam bearings all round

    performance ignition , to allow eng to run above 5200 rpm , most mild 95 builds peak hp around 5600 -5800 rpm depending on exhausts (Dyna-Tek DPI)

    eng assembled ran in on dyno ,and  tuned , + oil and fillters changes dureing running in and redone when finnished tuneing

    gear box and primary oils changed ,

    total cost $ 4,000 , all the above items  rebuilt ,run in ,and tuned on dyno + full service to eng, primary,gearbox ,   the cv carby are good for 95 rwhp and run nice , for strong torque eng the cv is great carby.

    I couldn't have been happier when I got the bike back. It made 91hp and 98tq with a V&H exhaust that is known for its good looks not its power making ability. (Big Radius 2+2)

    Obviously if you or a mate can do alot of the work you could do it cheaper. I say if you have to do the heads anyway then get a nice street port job and go a 95" to 98" with mild cams. Remember the ignition as it is something that is often over looked.  Well worth it in the long run mate. 

    Hope this helps with some ideas.