Once I find my parts grabber I'll adjust blue spring on emulator to 2 turns and see what that's like
How much fork travel do you use thinking I should also adjust to use more fork
Is there a minimum preload to have on a spring before I need to get softer one
Ok found a calculator for sonic springs they also recommend 1.1
Yes going to order the 1.1 from shock treatment once they open again, did you find you had more brake dive after drilling bleed holes in emulator I seem to have more but wasn't sure if it was tfrom 10w oil or drilling the extra bleed holes, also still searching on the front end info when I hold brake and push down it bounces but when I don't hold brake and push down it doesn't bounce but at least I'm getting most sorted and understanding how it work better thank you for all your help
Motul expert 10w
Ok I'll swap out fluid for 15w
Still waiting on new springs
Question on rear shocks - Suspension travel on the fatbob is listed as 54.1mm what should my sag be ????
The fatbob specs sheet has 54.1mm of travel but the ohlins shocks i put on have a stroke of 66mm
Just for my own clarity is my available travel 54mm or 66mm
Ok back into bike
Setup as follows
1.1 Racetech Springs
2.5 Turns on Emulator (Blue Spring)
4 Holes Drilled in Emulator Plate
15w Motul Fork Oil
Fork Oil level at 150mm
Preload 27mm
SAG 32mm
Available fork travel 125mm max i can get is 95mm with heavy braking
Everthing is improved with new setup but i still get the jolts sharp hit and potholes at 50km/h what am i missing
What controls the sharp hits at low speed
Do i take out fork oil to use more travel, Do i reduce the turns on preload more. Not sure what adjustment to make next
More preload on blue spring to make sharp hits and sharp potholes not so harsh ?????
So all this time i have been thinking opposite - less high speed compression = softer ride
Hilly there will be no name calling have read your posts from back in 2014 you have been a great help for me to understand setting up these forks
Back into it tonight hopefully - Really starting to think my idea of zero preload on the blue springs is wrong
eg: i think im at zero preload but its not
Question is the following correct
Example for sharp bumps and potholes
5 Turns of preload = harsh ride too much compression forks dont compress fast enough to absorb bumps and potholes
1 turn of preload = very soft ride ride bumps and potholes absorbed by suspension
anything that does not cause the forks to compress or extend fast is controlled by the slow speed plate and we drill all the holes to reduce that compression to make it softer
lighter weight oil would pass through holes easier reducing slow speed compression further = softer
does having the plate drilled also cause it to take care of more bumps (pressure because it can flow more) before the high speed takes over (pressure pushing plate up)
Been at the forks again tried all different preload from 1/2 turn on blue spring to 5 turns on blue spring trying to beat these road dips - front of bike still feels like it falls into the dips and when going over sharp edges feels like its not staying in contact when hitting edge - should i be looking at getting the rebound faster and adding more compression to keep front end levelish or should i be looking at swapping to a yellow spring - so confused ???? or am i trying to get results from these forks that are just not possible ????