I've had an intermittent fault with my 88' Softail cutting out, this happens at different times, sometimes when the bike has just warmed up and sometimes after a long ride, the other day I started the bike and it was backfiring like a bitch, after letting it run for 10 mins I tried to rev it again and the same thing it just kept backfiring. After it cooled down I pulled the plugs out and they were black, so I cleaned them up and then pulled the Carby (Stock CV) off to check that it was okay. After cleaning and adjusting the carb I put it back together and initially it started and ran fine, but as it warmed up the backfire began again.

Could this be an ignition module problem (I had a car that had an intemittent fault with the ignition module and found out it was caused by overheating), and if it is the module what is the best replacement module to use, I've looked and there are a number of aftermarket modules for sale all saying that they're the best, so does anyone have any real time experience that could help me out.

I'm pretty sure the current module is OEM, and it looks like the coil is a single fire unit in that it has 3 connections for the power input, not sure if that's right I just saw that someone said that if the coil has 3 poles then it's a single fire.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks for the info Dave, had the battery checked and its fine starts the bike first time every time and has never let me down, the guy who owned the bike before me had a high crank battery fitted because it has Silver Heads fitted and the compression is higher.

Have heard of the Hi4N modules and they seem to get a good rap from everyone, what coil would you suggest to run with the Hi4N module?

 

All good info here .... A sensor that is known to fail, and cause similar problems that the OP is experiencing , is the Crank Position Sensor.. If it is, the CPS is about $70 , and easy to install....  Google to find out info on the CPS, and see if it may be the clulprit ... Good luck

Thanks Mark will check that out as well.

I'm fairly sure that the 88 models do not have a Crank Sensor (the plug on the old EVO bikes in that slot is normally the Charging system output that goes to the Regulator) as its typically reserved for the Fuel Injected bikes.

I suffered from pretty much the same problem on my 86 FXR. Spent ages checking and tuning things until in desperation I replaced the ignition system with an Ultima Single fire system (Its a Dyna rebadged). Well that solved the problem 100% - even though to this day I have no idea which component of the old system have gone intermittent.

If your running the OEM pickup in the nnosecone then its 99% certain its a duel fire unit, so even if you have single fire coils then you gain no advantage.

If you go the Ultimate route do not even bother with their coils as they are rubbish - I have had two that dropped a cylinder within 12 months. I run a set of DynaS single fire units behind the stock coil cover.

Thanks for all of the help guys I really appreciate it otherwise I'd still be thinking about what to do a month from now, I think I'll go the S&S module and coil as they seem to have a good rep.

Can anyone tell me if the standard coil on my bike should have 2 poles or 3 for the hook up, mine has 3 and that's why I wondered whether it was a single fire coil on dual fire system? and as you said Dave that can cause problems, anyway just wondering whether the coil on my bike is single or dual, thanks again guys.

Don't suppose anyone knows where the best place is to get the ignition module and coil, I've looked online and everything seems to be in the US?

I hear what you're saying Dave, and if I had a local shop I'd 100% give em my business, unfortunately I live out at Lakes Entrance in Vic and the closest shop is 3hrs away, so not an issue for me.

I looked at M & M Cycles and they don't seem to carry the S&S Hi4N module or the coil? Will have to look for an alternative I guess, usually buy a bit of gear from JP Cycles in the US so will try them, thanks again for all of your help mate.

Sent them an email asking if they had em or could get one for me, thanks.

i use Daytona Tech ign systems as these were da fella's from Crane ign's that went there own way, the ign switch on da dash could be a problem on these old softie's iv'e seen quite a few thats failed or circuit breaker's ?

+1 for Daytona Twin Tech Ignition. 

Last year I had to replace the charging system and complete ignition system in my 90' Softail after the regulator shit itself and the stator shoved a gizillian volts into the system and fried everything.

I went with a Daytona Twin Tech from this guy in Queensland http://easyr.com.au/ . This guy was a pleasure to deal with and very helpful. He also sent the stuff straight away. Had it all in my hand in a couple of days. He also has a very complete Ebay store but if you call him direct you will save some cash. 

Here is a couple of links to the ignition module and coil I went with. http://easyr.com.au/product/daytona-twin-tec-coil-bt70-99-wsingle-fire-ign/     http://easyr.com.au/product/daytona-twin-tec-ign-module-bt95-98-evo/

The module will fit in the standard position under the seat ( I think yours is mounted under the oil tank? ) but on my bike it had no plug of any sort exept  the round three pin plug that goes to the pick up sensor. All the other wires were hard wired into the bike so I went with the 1007EX  module that has an eight pin Deutsh plug on it even though it is from a later model bike. http://easyr.com.au/product/daytona-twin-tec-ign-module-bt84-94-xl90-93-883/ (this advert is for a 1006EX but a 1007EX is pictured).  I then went to the electric plug joint and grabed a 8 pin Deutsh plug with a "b" key( the dude will know what your're talking about) and wired it into the bike after cutting the old fried module out. The new module comes with a good wiring diagram so it was easy to do. I reused the standard ignition pickup sensor as there was nothing wrong with it and it is compatible with the new module. The new single fire coil bolted right up to the old mount as did the chrome cover. After pulling the primary cover off and replacing the stator and the regulator and the battery(FFS!) she fired right up no worries.

If you want to do some fault finding before you spend all that cash, I have a service manual here that covers your bike and has a good section on diagnostic checks for the ignition system. Just PM me and I will copy the relevant pages for you.

Cheers

802

Thanks for the info, I've just replaced the ignition switch last year so it's ok, and I've got a manual for my bike but thanks for the offer, still think I'll go with the Hi4N system it seems to have a very good rap from everyone that's fitted it.

Here ya go. What about this brand new standard module with the Duetch plug and cheap as chips on ebay and in Aussie.

 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Harley-Evo-Ignition-Module-softail-dyna-touring/172026196768?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D9c615b3cb5634736b8bb4817c23a98db%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D12%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D171816007663

Thanks flyer but might not need it.
So in my bid to isolate my 'cutting out / backfiring' problem a mate of mine lent me a new module, sensor and coil that he was about to fit to his bike, and after fitting them I started the bike and all was running well until ........ you guessed it, until the bike heated up then it was back to the same problem, while I was running the bike my mate noticed that when it cut out the neutral light dimmed slightly, and after trying it a few more times it was obvious that there was a definite dimming in the neutral light when the bike cut out. My mate then turned the ignition switch to the headlight position and I started the bike again, this time it ran without any problem, so I switched it back to the ignition only position and sure enough after I gave the bike a rev it cut out and the neutral dimmed again. If I tried to start the bike after it cut out it wouldn't start again until I'd turned the ignition switch off and back on.
I changed the ignition switch last year and I'm just wondering if I've got a dud switch? Would a power surge cut the bike out, and is that why it doesn't cut out when the headlight is on, anyone have any thoughts on this? any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Yes have had a brand new dodgy ingnition switch a few years ago but was dodgy from the get go could give it a wiggle from side to side and bike would stop at the time I order two so I swapped it over and all good ,you could be in the right area I would look at all the wiring and clean all the connections
Lucky u could borrow a few bits to try it out ,could have been and expensive trial and error , think u owe your mate a beer or two lol I would swap the circuit breakers out two I case one is dodgy and over heating or loose contect inside it

I think you are onto it now. Sounds a lot like a bad contact in the "ignition" position in the switch to me. When it starts to fuck up and stop the bike it is probably arcing or making poor contact(heaps of resistance) and drawing a lot of current hence the newtral light goes dim. You will probably find that the big current draw trips the ignition breaker and thats why the bike stops. Not sure how the breakers work but you may have to take power away before it will re-set ? (turn the switch of and on again) or it could be the thermal type wich re-sets when it cools of.

 Try running the bike agian with the switch in that position but this time try to put your finger under the contact on the bottom of the switch. I bet it gets hot as shit as the engine stops. If it was the ignition breaker causing the trouble it would do it with the headlights on as well so that seems unlikely.

get & electric type switch not da mechanical type  they always stuff up , make sure da dash cover is not touching underneath , use clay for clearance check

   cheers Bob

Thanks for all the replies guys, all very helpful. 

As this is my first Harley it's a bit of a learning curve for me, I had Jap and Pommy bikes before this, but I always wanted a Harley especially a Springer, and I also
wanted a carby model so that if it had any issues at least I could attempt to fix them.

Thing that still concerns me is the fact that the bike won't start after it cuts out, that is until I turn the ignition off and back on, I tried just giving the ignition switch a wriggle and then trying to start it but it won't start until I turn it off and on again? That's why I was wondering about these 'Circuit Breakers' that were mentioned, 'where are they located' and can I check their operation, or is it easier just to replace them when I replace the Ignition Switch to be sure, and someone mentioned an alternative Switch to the 'Mechanical' one, do they make one for my model bike?

The Harley sort of reminds of a 'Mini Minor' (no disrespect intended, as the Mini was a world beater in it's time), I mean from an engineering point, when Morris made the Mini they built a nice looking body then had to design an engine to fit in it, and then they started to think about where they were going to put all of the 'electrics etc', the Harley sort of reminds me of that because the electrics seem to be all over the place, like it was the last thing that they thought about. Maybe I'm just use to the electrics in Jap bikes because they're so accessible and usually all under one cover, anyway wouldn't swap the Harley for anything I still love it with all of it's challenges.

So if anyone can help me locate these 'circuit breakers' or whatever, and tell me where they might be on my bike I would really appreciate it, I found the Module (it's a Screamin Eagle Module mounted under the Oil Tank), and I spotted a few other electrical components that are in the gap between the lower front rear guard and the battery compartment, but not sure what they are, again any help would be very welcome.

Have included a pic of the relay/fuse/circuit breaker or whatever they are that I spoke of. And can anyone how do you get to these? do you have to remove the battery and oil tank or is there another way to access them, besides pulling the back end off the bike?

Yep that's the starter breaker there above the starter relay in a shit of a spot but you can get at them you may have to take the the battery out and undo the oil tank bolts so it moves or take the back wheel off than undo the four bolts that hold the
Plastic whell arch cover on if you replace it you should have 3 or four of the breakers up under the dash plate hanging
Of a rubber strap As Well that's how thay are from factory anyway some one may have changed them over the years The breakers are Cheap should be able to get them at any auto parts store or if your feeling keen you could changed them out to fuses I've Just left them as std on my bikes as I have had no problems with them but thay have been problem with many other riders bikes Over the years Seeing you are having problems I would swap them first under the dash For what there worth than you know either way And yes two types of ignition switches the Oem type which is pole type/ mechanical or the aftermarket newer electric type which are more reliable

look @ da steering bearing on these every 20,000 klms they chew them out