Hi Guys, need some help with Battery light staying on. I have recently purchased a 2013 Dyna Wide Glide with Stage 1 air filter and V&H Big Radius 2 into 2. Guy i bought it from could not tell me what tuner or tune was in the bike. Anyway i purchased a V&H FP3 installed app on phone and tablet, installed module into dlc and could not connect. So i take it back to the indie shop i bought it from. They have no luck as well and tell me that there is no signal from dlc to ecu. Tell me i need a new ecu. I ask about broken wires etc. In the meantime mechanic changes power pin on module to pick up constant power in dlc.Mechanic does not tell me whether it is on the bike or the module. He goes ahead and updates the firmware and installs map based on pipes & ac.He advises not to leave the module plugged in as it may drain the battery. I head home pretty ****ed off with the whole situation when i notice the battery light on. So i turn around and head back to the shop. Thinking the mechanic has changed the power wire on my bike and this was causing the problem. Get back to the shop, mechanic tells me it was the Module power wire and not the dlc. So we then start checking the charging system and it is not charging. Tells me it could be stator or regulator/rectifier. Has none it stock and tells me i have to leave my bike there as he cannot look at it straight. Well i decide this is not an option and i attempt to ride home. Battery is showing 11.6 volts when idling. Mechanic tells me it will stop running at 8 volts and i may have 15 minutes run time left. Well i make it home to my amazement,as i live about 20 minutes away from the shop. Check the battery with bike turned off, reading 11.5 volts. Brain starts going to overdrive. Throw the battery charger on while i go inside and check my Service Manual and check online for help. Find out how to check stator. So i have checked all 3 plugs and have continuity and have checked not going to ground. Once battery was fully charged unplugged stator and test output while running, all 3 reading 25 volts at idle and 52 volts at about 2-3000 rpm. Cannot find in the manual what this reading should be(Manual is Digital Copy). But the other thing is with the bike not running, battery reads 12.6 volts, but as soon as you start it the volts start dropping down to about 11.5 volts and the battery light comes. Left bike overnight and battery charging , battery at 12.6, start the bike and it drops. Test battery befor ride, 12.6 volts. Go for a quick 15 minute ride locally . Battery light on.Get back and test while bike running 11.8 volts. Turn the bike off goes up to 12.6. Electrical issues are definitely not my go, so any help would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the long winded story. Thanks in advance
GruntSS

Thanks for the quick reply Kiwidave.

I have checked the stator reading. Twin cams are a 3 phase charging system, eg 3 pins compared to my old evo 2 pins. Checked all three pins using Ohms audio, it beeps as well non audio Large 1.

I have also tested to ground, eg red lead in stator wire, black lead to primary case bolt. I have tested this bolt to negative of battery to ensure good ground. Again all 3 plugs are not grounded.

I have also popped the derby cover off as well, apparently if the stator has fryed its self, it emitts terrible smell.Only thing i can smell on mine is the primary oil.

I will go and try the ignition load test as well as the regulator test and see if i get any readings.

Thanks

GruntSS

Ok, just tryed battery load test ignition on. Battery volts no load 12.4, igniton on 12.1 volts

Tryed stator ohms reading on 2k, as the smallest reading, tryed all 3 pins in multiple combos', reading was .000

Tryed regulator reading with engine running on 2k DC V, reading was .03 to 04

These readings are on a new SCA Automotive multi meter from Supercheap that i bought this morning. Wasnt sure my old multi meter was working properly

Just an update, battery light issue solved. It was the regulator, replaced and is now charging. Battery light gone

Thanks

GruntSS

Hi Baloffski

Yeah thanks mate, it was quite the head fuck, but thanks to kiwidave for the info as well. Bought a new Reg from Frasers Perth, changed it over and now charging at 13.8 volts. Big relief it was the Reg, as I dont really have the tools in Perth to crack the primary , remove compensating sprocket and change stator. I hate paying for the things that i can generally do.

On the FP3 tuner front, now have a better understanding of what the mechanic done with module power, and am unable to access Auto Tune feature and turn off and view maps etc

But my main concern now is the No Power/Signal coming from my ECU through to the 6 Pin DLC connector. Because viewing DTC codes on FP3 - U0100 ECU "Communication error" is not a good sign. I went to Frasers yesterday and have booked it for Diagnosis ( $137 for 1 hour diagnosis)next Friday 18/12 when i get back from work.Have been quoted by spares guy $1100, for new blank ecu, fitment as well as SE Tuner. Apparently need tuner for copying old ecu.Not real sure about that 1, but anyway will get Diagnosis done first and go from there.

Thanks GruntSS

Sounds just like the last new car that I bought, everytime I took it to the dealer it was never less than a grand to get it fixed, got sick of it and sold it and bought an fully restored VC Valiant Regal Sedan 225 slant six with a torqueflite auto, I'd do a full service on the engine and tranny Plugs, Leads, Dissy Cap, Rotor Button, Condensor, Carby Overhaul Kit, Air Filter, Oil Filter, Oil, Tranny Filter and Oil, and it'd cost me less than 300 bucks for everything, and the rreal beauty was that I could do it all myself and the old VC ran sweet as everytime I started her.

Thing is I was talking to my bro the other day and he'd just bought a new Camry, and was telling me how great it was and I asked him  what sort of mileage he got out of it, well it turns out that this brand spanking new 2015 high tech wonder car of his gets the same mileage as my 50yr VC, yeah we've come a long way haven't we???

Yeah mate i hear you