Hey all, I've been battling with these Hex screws one of which I've managed to strip the inside of and gonna have to easy out. I've used an impact drill that has worked on reversing really tight screws on the bike (2014 XL883N) and has been fine for all of those. But when I tried to remove one of the lower fork drain/dampener screws it seemed that there was some play between the cap and hex spanner I used to measure the size of the hole 6mm, it was however the closest thing I have found including TORX bits and imperial counter parts of these. I figured that the dewalt impact driver would be fast enough to eliminate any spinning (however the screw didn't budge a half a mm) of the dampener rod internally. I'm putting in some progressive mono tube springs and have noticed that they specify to put some red loctite on the end of the screw before reinstalling and am wondering if this may be the super tight foe I'm battling here with the OEM screw (fitting procedure)?? So I've decided as my next move I'm going to put a "sacrificial" Hex key in the hole I haven't stripped and heat it with a blow torch to melt any loctite if present and see how it goes with putting in a new bit and giving it another go with the Dewalt. 

Any advice greatly valued as always!!

If you really get stuck I have had great success Before with allen head bolts by drilling out the head part where you insert the allen key with a drill bit just under or close to the thread size.The head will fall off and you can unscrew the rest easy as once apart.

Wow. Tough luck with this one hey. I did mine the other day. 6mm allen socket & impact I used on one side. The other leg undid with a 6 mm allen key and a sharp belt with a hammer. Maybe drill the head off like Indi suggested.

Ended up drilling a hole bout 5mm wide and using an easy out on an extension to the dewalt and it came out as if it were dripping with anti seize! Go figure huh?! A big thanks for the imput guys!

Good to see you got it out.
The trouble with these lower fork tube retaining bolts is that the hex is very shallow compared to a normal socket head cap screw. On a normal 8mm SHCS you might have 8mm depth for a allen key or allen socket, But these harley ones they use on the forks give you about 4-5 mm if your lucky. So you have to get it tight and right the first go or a round out visits you.

You're spot on FLH ! If there was just a little more depth to them like a regular cap screw then you could easily undo them with just an Allen key manually but the shallow design certainly does not help with the task when it's the last thing you think will be the hardest part of the whole excercise. I also found that there was a tacky circle of sticker type adhesive around the lower part of the hex head part of the bolt rather than a loctite on the thread (the manual specifies to use loctite to reassemble) and this seemed to form quite a tight seal that added to the difficult removal. I'd definatly use an air ratchet in retrospect as there is also the bond of the copper washer that adds to the whole thing. With all that over kill for a bolt that can't come out while in situ because of the axel I'm surprised that the reinstall for the axel its-self doesn't call for loctite or have a crown nut and split pin but solely relays on torque setting.

I had the same problem with mine, except they were phillip head screws. Both stripped on the way out. Lucky i could get the multi grips on them and got them out.