Great instructions but I have one problem - in step 12
12. On the next screen under “Programming Status” there are two radio buttons; make sure both “Enable Smart tune Reflash” and “Reset Adaptive Fuel” are selected.

I can only select "Reset Adaptive Fuel", the check box for “Enable Smart tune Reflash” is disabled. It is there I just can't check it.
Any clues?

I'm not too sure what the problem is mate as I haven't encountered that myself. All I can say is make sure the software is all up to date and follow the instructions carefully and closely step by step.

I've gone through the process many times and I still check this guide step by step to make sure I'm following it correctly and I've had nothing but success.

Thanks heaps for this instruction post mate,
I find myself ready to try tuning my 2014 Wide Glide myself after totally loosing confidence with my Local HD dealer after a lot of issues. Anyway, looking forwards I got a couple of questions for those far more learned than I .
Firstly. My sled is stock( still) apart from a 2 into 1 Exhaust From Ron Hacker which I'm stoked with. And a Performance Machine Max HP air cleaner with KN filter.These are both pretty unrestrictive items and the exhaust in particular is good for some good numbers from what the manufacturer shows me .It don't have any butt plugs or any superficial tricks , just an outer perforated sort of a baffle thing that doesn't restrict the diameter of the muffler.
Its been tuned using this Calibration file in the Screaming eagle pro super tuner software:357SDQ001 which looks to my uneducated eyes as a standard Stage 1 cal.It has a suffix on the end .01 that I'm presuming to mean they fiddled with it a small amount, It has Popped a lot since its been installed. ( I just have been away working for most of this year and haven't had time to fuck around with it),Like I Mean POPPED. Its been serviced by the Dealer since new, and has had exhaust leaking issues since the Pipe was put on, I am checking and tightening it when needed before I ride it regularly.
Ok my first question is, what rev limit should I be at as I'm still on standard cams and for my riding I rarely see 5k on the tach.
Second of all should the Auto compression release be deactivated? I'm suspicious this is off so the dealer can sell me a new started motor if/when mine fails no doubt just out of warranty.
Now I am computer literate and I understand EFI and closed loop /open loop, AFRs( Lambda) and VE tables. Just not on my Harley.So I'm taking it slow and having a look at the software and learning when I have a chance to sit with the lappy and really study it. Im ready to do try a Map and do some smart tune runs.
Thirdly , does altitude make a difference? I have a stretch of road in mind to do smart tune runs on but its up past Mareeba which is a lot higher than sea level.
fourth, what tension can the exhaust studs take? and what if any measures can I adapt so it doesn't come loose,Am I up for new exhaust gaskets? Should I put another nut on them to lock against the first one?
I appreciate all the smart people on this site and if any of you have any ideas Ide be grateful.
Stay safe you lot and cheers.

Thanks for posting

Thanks mate .

Ok been reading a bit more , Now do ya reckon I should stay with this map and do some smart tune runs ? Rather than changing it back to the original 357SDQ001 Stage 1 map and alter it to 2-1 exhaust and free flowing intake etc? Anyone know about this ACR setting in a stock motor? Should it be activated or not. It says in the workshop manual its on by default.
I hope I'm not asking stupid questions but am just well over the BS the dealer tells me and want to do it myself.
Stay safe you lot

I would recommend putting on whatever base map is closest to your set-up and then smart tune from there. If you have a 2-1 system and the map they've put on is 2-2 then I'd select a more appropriate map for a 2-1 system and then run a few smart tunes to get it nice and close from there.

RE: ACR - If it's on by default in the software, and that's what the manual says, then I would personally leave it as is.

There are no stupid questions mate despite what some people might tell you. We're all in the same boat pretty much, some with more experience than others, but the point of a forum is to be able to ask questions you haven't got a satisfying answer to elsewhere in the hopes someone else has encountered or experienced that same situation and can help out. The only thing that personally shits me is when a question has been asked 1000000 times and someone posts it again without searching first, but even then I'm not too bothered because not everyone knows how forums work.

Acr should be activated

Start watching rpm when popping occurs, take notes

When in doubt look under "help" in the software.... that is the instructions.

Thanks heaps noctm,robots and Lushy. Really appreciate all the help you guys are giving me.
I'm gonna give it shot tomorrow.
Cheers
Stay safe all .

The 2015 model, 103ci, stage 1 tune file in the Screaming Eagle Pro Tuner, has the ACR turned off as a default, does anyone know the reasoning behind this? Also, I can't see any provision for turning off the Active Exhaust Valve or the Air Intake Valve. I know you can wedge the exhaust valve open, but I'd like to turn it off.
Any HELPFUL suggestions, without profanities, would be appreciated

Once again mate check the instructions.. There is a window for turning off the exh valve.

Hi Lushy,

For tthe find it life of me I can't find it. I've been through all the various settings and screens. Do you know where the option is? You can call me on 0477 77 00 17 if need be.

Cheers and thanks

John

I m also unable to find setting to turn off active exhaust

 

If you use the search function in this forum,  enable ACR - you will get a post that has a straight forward instruction (I did just that last weekend).

Load your tuning file (calibration).

Scroll down to "tuning setup" and click on the + symbol, then drag "working" across to the main window on far right.   Now you should see the ACR tab in this window, go there and click on ACR Enable.

Then do a Save or Save As, and now you need to connect to your bike to re-install the revised file

 

I've just done a first run and managed to get data for these cells.

When I do another run do I use the original canned map as described in step 1 and 2 or do i load the new map I have generated.

Thanks Crusti

Hey mate,

If ya doing a second smart tune run, you load the map you saved off the back of your previous run & changes and keep going from there

Ok. Seeing the name of this post, i thought my questions belonged here.

My recently purchased bike ('09 Fatbob) has stage one SE Heavy breather and V&H big radius pipes. Just got it serviced and asked them to check out the tuning. Gave them the Supertuner that I got with the bike.

They said it was all good, but after reading this, I'm wondering if the bikes tuned to its optimum. I'm sure they wouldn't have rode the bike around for an hour, as described here?

So I'm thinking of buying the software and cables and doing it myself. Is it worth doing? I haven't been able to find a gun Harley mechanic with a dyno here (Darwin) so far, if anyone knows of one I might go down that path instead.

Also looking at changing out the cams. I'm pretty sure I will leave the engine alone after the cam upgrades and upgrade the bike eventually. Can't see the point of spending 4 or 5 grand to go the stage 4, 103" route. So currently thinking a SE204 cam kit will be the best option for a bolt in cam setup. That way I can tune them in myself, if I get the Protuner software. Thoughts?

Cheers in advance for any advice given.

Ok, so I've got the cables, downloaded the software and I'm ready to jump in the deep end. But first I want to ensure I've got a life preserver. When I plug everything into the bike, will I be able to save the current map as a file, in case it all goes pear shaped? Is this a straight forward operation? 

Cheers Hilly. I'll have a go this weekend, weather permitting.