g'day all,does anyone know if any of the auto shop pullers can adapt to to work on an evo clutch, thanks.

If it's a early one there on a tapered shaft, if it is a late one its on spline and normally just slide off
But if it's a bit stuck two large screwdrivers behind it with care off corse but other wise yes you should be
Able to use a large 3 leg Puller and yes the clutch hub nut is left hand thread

thanks perthhog,yes it's early,87, I found my jam bar but could not find the puller that a mate made up for me 25 years ago when I rebuilt a 79 fxef 3 bolt clutch so am unsure about using cheep auto puller on 4 bolt clutch, I will see if I can move it with srewdrivers, I have to install a new charging kit. Righty loosey as the yanks say, lol.

Are you a tapered or splined shaft? Mine is tapered and there is no way you would remove the Clutch without a hub puller and a hammer!.

kiwidave i will not try any jemmy tactics, i will include a barnett scorpian  hub puller along with a James primary gasket set and a 32amp charging kit,all from the same EBay store.Do  any of you old evo guys think that you could dremel the high spots at 10 and 4 on the inner and remove the stator without poppin the clutch hub, yeah i know but it's one of those things that makes you think when ya have a look at it.Dave i'm in the mid north of SA

I mentioned the dremel trick it being an urban myth (maybe) had no intention of trying it, I just like throwing up things from outta left field, it drives my missus mad, not buying a Barnett clutch but a puller $1oo,i did make the last one I had but now don't have the resources workshop. Does the starter motor need to come out to take the inner off? Thanks for your interest and input.

 

I was referring to a spline shaft type to pop off with screw drivers which I've done many times on different Appalachians but with the tapered type
You will need a puller of some type not sure if would pull from those small bolt holes though ,but in saying that the jims puller is like that and yes starter/jack shaft need to come off As for the dremal trick that can apparently be done to Tc primary's have heard of being done on this forum

The best way to remove the hub once you have the puller is to fit it and preload the puller with a fair amount of force (I mean heaps). If the hub does not just pop off then get a hammer and give the puller main bolt a 'love tap'. 90% of the time the hub will just pop right off after the first couple of taps. Just be careful to not beat the heck out of it as you could damage the trapdoor bearings as they are whats on the far end of that shaft! Also make sure you do not overlook or loose the small taper key.

The Stator cover can be a real bugger to pull off...You will swear its bolts on BUT its just the magnets holding it in place and man they are strong. Whats wrong with the stator? They normally last forever (well except mine which I replaced last year - damn thing developed a short to ground.)

the plug into the engine case has perished an oil was pissing out, is this plug a separate item from the stator?

Plug ? There's a seal for the crankshaft behind the rotor in the centre of the stator which you don't need to take clutch hub or primary off to change  on the later type  anyway just. Screw two bolts into the rotor and pull it off As tuss said the magnets will try and pull it back on  but you should be able to pull it off 

When replacing the Stator..... Clean the cable exit hole in the inner primary case and the new stator rubber with carb cleaner or something so that they are 100% oil free. Then when you install the new stator make sure you use a layer of good silicon sealer on the stator plug and hole in the cases as you install things back together (I use roofing silicon as it can take the heat and oil best - just make sure its good quality and not cheap rubbish).  If done right you should have a pretty near 100% sealed unit that will never leak again!

yes that's the one , stator plug, fell apart, also the 2 pin rectifier plug, don't know how long these had been on, bought this bike 3 years ago.

Replace the really hard to get at bolt with an Allen bolt. I run these and its easy to get an Allen Ball Headed Extension in there.

pulled starter motor out and the housing was easy, the hard to get 1/2" bolt I cracked with socket and flexi, then got my fingers in too easily, I thought, fuck, why do American books make thing sound so complicated' to me anyway, thanks guys.

thanks kiwidave,no probs, I haven't received the charging system yet so won't have this job finished till next week. I have just replaced the rocker box gaskets, got crane adjustables which made that a bit less fiddly.i spent a lot of time up north, love the weather, fishing and riding, I'm going in hospital for some skin cancer surgery tues so it's not all beer and skittles up fnq.