96b crank rebuild

  • cookiemonster
    cookiemonster
    10 years ago

    Want to build the donk from bottom up, any sugestions. Bike has 42000 on it and i want more grunt. FXST.

     

  • Daggs
    Daggs
    10 years ago
    Think about an s&s crank, go 117, 124....
  • Krash Kinkade
    Krash Kinkade
    10 years ago

    Mate about all you can do is spot weld the pin to flywheel. but you need to find someone very experienced.

    If you leave motor relitavely stock should be fine without welding the pin. but if you change cams raise comp, make sure you match the cam to the comp, so cranking pressure does not go too high, but then again you need around 180psi cranking to make good power n torque. what are you after?

    cheers

  • cookiemonster
    cookiemonster
    10 years ago

    Thanks for the input, much regarded. Rode the bike home and stopped for smoke after 260 km or so and all the winni blues backy was at the bottom of my packet, all the smokes were empty. Ran fairly hard though on open roads but want to start from the bottom up. Being a b - balanced motor with counter balancers in it, if i change the weight of the pistons i will change the balance counter effect. So i figure i need some help. I would love to go big....why not, i only use the bike for forty or so km runs now, but would love to shread some rubber on the way. Want to do it once and well, but lack the knoweledge.... just thought that a well thought out , understandable plan is in order. Again thank you for your input and i shall keep posting all the details so that it can be documented for all to prosper from the endevour.

    .

  • Hudson76
    Hudson76
    10 years ago
    I agree with Daggs......... I'd go straight for the 124". If i ever open mine up again thats exactly what i'll be doing. Not for a race engine though, just a tuff streeter with HEAPS of torque. Good luck with the build mate, which ever way you go.
  • KiwiRob
    KiwiRob
    10 years ago
    I'll have to agree with Krash. If you keep engine relatively stock, then just make sure the crank run-out is 0.003" or less & replace the crank case bearings along with the balancer bearings. If you are going to lean on it a little (103" pistons & mild cams), then plug, weld & balance would be the ticket. If you want more cubes, then the con-rods will have to go, so either a full house crank by Dark Horse, or similar, or S&S. - Rob