So my bike (09 Streetbob) wont fucking start.  It seems to sluggish start for a long time.  Then yesterday it took ages to start, so I went for a ride, stopped and it almost didn't start.  Today I charged it up and it's turning over, but not starting...

The battery is 3 years old so I'm thinking that's it, might jump start from a car tommorow to confirm.

 

Which brings me to battery recomendations - preferably a model number if you can.  Since I live in bumfuck shit town (and I'm so lucky) I can't find anyone who stocks anything I want so chance are I'll have to order in...  Autobarn has some batteries (Revline?) but I know SFA about them and haven't got a price yet.

 

Also, anyone know the original battery specs?  CCA rating etc?

 

The stock battery used to be good for many years, but it seems around
3 years is common now.
I still think the stock HD battery is quite decent.
I would call the closest dealer and get one posted.
The cheaper batteries can be a crap shoot .

Mmm, well I was told the "Harley" batteries are just cheaper Deka batteries with a different case. Even if I order a Deka battery I don't know any details of the original batteries to make sure I get the right one.

http://www.harley-davidson.com/app-content/service/isheets/-J01575.PDF

http://www.federalbatteries.com.au/ETX20L/

http://www.onlinebatteries.com.au/deka-sports-power-etx20l-p-227.html

http://www.harley-davidson.com/store/h-d-agm-original-equipment-battery-pa-12-6598997c--1

 

I've had a look and a few recommendations and I will probably be going with the Deka ETX20L like the one in your link.

Cheers Speedzter.

Do you have and hook up a battery tender when not riding ?

Makes the single biggest difference to battery life , I've had 7 years from original HD batteries and the same from Deka.

All the bikes sold in Australia since 2006 had some kind of factory alarm/immobiliser , and from 2007 you can't "not" have it on !

(Well you can , but it's such a shitfest most folks don't bother )

Here in WA Frasers used to fit tender harnesses to all newly delivered bikes , due to the immense "warranty" claims for batteries from the FIFO guys , who's bikes would lie for a month+ when they were up north. The addition of "Battery Fighter" tenders reduced those warranty claims to a trickle. You can buy "Battery fighter Junior" from Supercheap for $60 !

When replacing batteries I have used OEM from the HD dealer and Deka from battery suppliers , which ever was in stock and/or cheapest.

So this morning I went out pressed the started and it made a "click sound" (just one click) and didn't even bother turning over.  Then I pressed it again and it fired straight up...wtf?

 

And I do have a smart charger.  Mines a battery Link:  https://media.autobarn.com.au/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/500x500/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/M/C/MCU036.jpg

I don't recommended them for two reasons.  Firstly the button to change modes is dodgy on mine (have to press the shit out of it) and secondly I emailed the company asking to buy a second lead and they didn't even bother to reply to me..  When I've got some cash again (read never) I might look at the battery tender brand.

 

+1 to the battery tenders. My 08 bob is still on its original battery, I work away a lot so its on the tender while I'm gone and still starts with no hesitation

I have no idea about the starter, nor do I know how to check it I was going to go on a loose wire hunt today, but I've been too busy.

I did notice the voltage reading on the battery seems high now (15ish from memory), but I'm not too confident in the damn multimeter so I might get new batteries in that too... Rather than giving a reading it seems to be climbing really slowly.

And I've had my alarm off since it first happened, so today I turned it back on to see if that makes a difference. From my history I'm usually the guy that has two things go wrong at once so it may be a fucked battery and a loose wire or other problem.

Just an update up for anyone that wondered, after much messing around I went back to basics and followed one wire at a time. I sat down with a dozen cans of JD and a multimeter and started with the main ground to engine wire...which was loose.... After the eleventh can it was almost done up again and I forced myself to down the last can (to keep up my strength) and with a last mighty effort I did the nut up completely. Almost makes me want to become an auto elec.

Bad earth? You find. Good result. Keep going, you might find more. And get some more cans while your at it!

My wife may kill me if I keep looking, but I'll have another crack tomorrow, just in case. Starts really good now so I'm pretty stoked

Cheers for all the help.

yes , the old "Dyna vibration" thing !

A few years back a mate was fiddling for his fuel tap while idling at the lights and the motor "nipped" his finger to the top mount or the frame !

Another mate had his complete gear change rod from the forwards vibrate/fall off 200 K's outta town , rode it all the way home in 3rd !

I've seen them shake both mufflers right off while riding down the freeway FFsake !

Several times I have been working on other folk's Dynas which were popping on decel , and once cool enough I found I coud "twist" the mufflers by hand !

45 Foot/lbs + on the torque wrench fixes that !That and "Loctite Blue" is your friend for life...

Souds like a good " low cost " fix then , good to hear

Everyone under the same circumstances would immediately have assumed the battery was U/S