After owning this bike for 7 years thought it might be about time to lubricate the throttle cables.

Not a hard job at all, probably should do it more often.

Could not help noticing when the upper and lower switchblocks were apart that you cannot remove the throttle cable from the lower switchblock.

Seems like the external cable hosing....the bit that is attached to the cable adjusters is somehow crimped on and unremoveable without a hacksaw or angle grinder!.

I do have the workshop manual but there is sweet FA about removing/replacing the cables in it.

Makes ya wonder how the blazers your meant to fix a busted cable on the side of the road, even if you did have a spare one.

Any thoughts/advice appreciated.

 

You take your blouse off and just pull it out.! Ok you can leave it on but first give it a squirt of wd40 first and that little clip is like a c clip. it will give a bit and squash and let you pull the shebang out.

F- a -r  C- a -n- a- l !

No wonder I couldn't get it. Manual did not even say anything about blouse removal.

Let alone something like, "Once you have the upper and lower switchblocks separated, just reef the fuckin cables out".

Thanks for the tip Flutchu. I appreciate it.

Perhaps you are a qualified Harley mechanic?

I hope so.

They are pretty thin on the ground around here.

If you are then maybe you have a hot tip on my next issue. With my 08 FXST lemon.

I was also into that switchblock to check out the front brake stoplight switch.

Been blowing tailight globes too often. In fact the tail light holder/recepticle looks burnt.

Suspect it is a dodgy switch in the switchblock.

What happens is this. Pull on the front brake, brake light comes on. Let off front brake, brake light is still on. If you push the brake lever away from you the brake light might go out,sometimes.

After talking to my friendly HD spare parts guy. He said the switch is an available part.  You just gotta cut the wires,put in new switch, re-splice the wires,sloder,heat shrink the heat shrinkable stuff over the repair and Bob is you uncle.

I have had Burliegh internal wired bars fitted and when you separate the switchblocks there is not much room for the opperating theatre if you know what I mean, switchblocks are not able to be moved very far from handlebars.

Maybe I should just reef on the internal handlebar wiring to give me more workable room? Whatcha reckon?

I do have the heat shrink stuff, soldering iron,wire strippers etc.. But no arthroscopic device to aid the job..

Looking at the job, ie replace the switch, I must say I thought "oh shit! I'm going to fuck this up". Mainly becuse it's all in such a confined space. (lower rh switchblock). Bring in a pair of your everyday cable cutters and strippers and the chances seem slim of performing a satisfactory job.

Just don't like taking the bike to the dealers to do such a job, heck! they probably will be faced with the same scenario.

Any tips on this one? Other than get the Tutu off etc, would be appreciated.

 

Yep you have broken top off th switch Seen it a few times bit of loctite and a small piece of plastic or I small screw and screw into the end of switch

I'm pretty confident the switch isn't the cause of the tail light lamp burning out. From a simplistic point of view, the lamp will only draw as much current as the filament in it allows. It could be your brake light is staying on too long with the sticky switch, getting hot and weakening the filament to the point it breaks with vibration, but that's a long shot.

Could be cheap lamps, but their probably made in the same factory as all the rest! Who knows...

Ok, so I bought a new front brake stoplight switch. Eighty bucks!  What a bargain for 2 bucks worth of materials.

As I had previously pulled the switchblock apart and judged that I would probably botch the job I asked the friendly Harley shop bloke, "what are the chances of getting one of your qualified mechanics to do the job while I wait around?"(didn't mind if we booked a future time) Other option was to take it to a fellow I know who is an auto electrician and bike enthusiast.

Shop bloke asked me if I knew Mr X. As it happened I did know Mr X in fact he was the bloke I was going to ask if the shop was not keen..

So went to Mr X's place the next day. Took a few tools so that I could at least take the switchblock apart and re-assemble it once the new switch was in.

The job took 1 1/2 hours. Strewth is it a fiddly job?!. And yep,reckon I would have made a mess of it.

You were right Ando, the end of the switch was busted off. Reckon it must have happened when I paid another shop to fit my Berliegh internal wired bars. The throttle adjuster shoe was also missing from inside the switchblock. Won't be going back to that shop in a hurry.

Anyway back onto the cables. Mr X wanted to pull the cables out to give a bit more room for the switch change. He got a pair of pliers and yanked on em, but they did not come out. So did the job with the cables still in the switchblock. I could tell he did not want to run the risk of stuffing them up due to brute force.

So I guess the original question is still here. How do you remove the cables from the switchblock?.

Flutchu, you sure you just reef em out?

Then what? do you need a press or big hammer to fit new ones back in?.

 

 

 

 

Dunno? all the ones i have done came out so I can only imagine yours must be different in some way. Maybe take the c clips out from the top first. Hope my other info helped in some other way.........

 

Bit of lube ie CDC and a wiggling/rocking motion with some force and the will pull out

Cheers.