Riding from work ( outer harbour ) to home ( wynn vale ) today, noticed the fans were constantly on for the whole trip.

35' C today in Adelaide.

Even on the port express-way 90/100 khp for maybe  8 km's fans were still running.

My question - Any rods out there which are forced inducted ( turbo/supercharged ), do you have this problem?

I understand that any motor will run a little hotter being forced inducted.

I don't about the Turbo or Supercharged temps, but I did find this:

I agree with vroddrew that it will be difficult to determine exactly how the grills affect coolant temperature. I have done a lot of V-Rod temperature testing with non-vrod radiators, and it's not an easy task. Despite this, here are a few temperature reading methods I've used. The Scanalyzer is the easiest if you can get one. The others are not so simple. Don't forget there's also an oil cooler (below the "water" radiator), though the oil should be affected in the same way as the water.

1) The Scanalyzer can show real-time temperature. I've ridden around with it attached (see first photo). Unfortunately, the price for this setup is several hundred bucks, and your dealer must be pretty friendly before they'll sell you the module that plugs into it. I sure would like to know if a generic ODB-II code reader would work on the V-Rod (Max???).

2) If you're willing to get into the wiring, you can tap into the ECT Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (back side of water pump, between cylinders) with a volt meter. Connect + lead to Pink/Yellow wire, and - lead to Black/White wire. Same connections are available on the Instrument Module connector (same color wires, + = Pin 6, - = Pin 26). To convert this voltage to temperature, follow this conversion table:
Voltage | Temp (degrees F)
4.02V = 14F
3.52V = 32F
2.94V = 50F
2.35V = 68F
1.81V = 86F
1.35V or 4.05V = 104F *
0.99V or 3.7V = 122F *
3.31V = 140F
2.88V = 158F
2.46V = 176F
2.06V = 194F
1.71V = 212F
1.40V = 230F
* Between 104F and 122F, the ECM changes scaling. Voltages for ECT sensor will shift scales in that range. This provides proper sensor resolution for all temperatures.

3) Since you may not need ACTUAL coolant temperature, but rather temperature DIFFERENCE between two grill setups, you can buy a simple and cheap oven cooking (turkey) thermometer, digital or analog (see second photo). Find a place on the OUTLET end of the radiator, attach it with good solid contact with the metal radiator surface (for good heat transfer). Buy a second one for ambient air temperature so you know you're always comparing numbers under the same outside temperature conditions.

Other relevant numbers:
- Coolant thermostat begins to open at 185F.
- Fans turn off below 195F.
- Fans turn on above 203F (according to manual), mine goes on at 205F.
- Thermostat is fully open at 212F.
- Temperature lamp off below 220F.
- Temperature lamp on above 235F.

Zijspan

http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=46689#post46689

Just come back from the Pt. Vic Ride, 40' C both days.
Fans were on most of the time, even at cruising speeds.
The temperature light didn't come on at all though.
Probably running hot, but not to extreme levels.

allde, wouldn't the thermostat be fully open, before the fans kick in?
I'm not real good around wires etc. Will try and have a look.