2006 efi stock Dyna

After any help on this so I can ride for  more than 30mins.

lately when I ride for moe than about 30mins on the hwy my bike starts pulling back like it's running out of fuel, I increase the throttle and it goes away somewhat. It happens in the cruse range of 4th, 5th & 6th. it's hard to stick to speed limits because the revs won't sit on one speed. it also revs quite high when I run down through the gears to a stop. I have to turn the engine off, then on again.

I took off the big radius and FuelPak thinking this might be the problem, at least i haven't wasted 1k. I have changed plugs, they are good at 1,000ks, compression front 130, rear 120, plug lead ohms front 5.6ohms, rear 2.4ohms, no error codes showing on console.

 Please advise so I can get out and ride, cheers Bowzer

 

My money would be on the throttle body being dirty/oily

Can't remember the name of the actual part , but it's a "pintle" on the topside of the throttle body that gets "sticky" in operation.

I had to firstly clean then replace the one on my 2006 EFI Dyna. Very similar symptoms to your bike

There was an old thread of mine on "how to" relace it on a 2006 Dyna but it would be 4+ years ago most likely

You can do it without removing the tank etc , saving many hours of labour

Where in Australia are you ?

Hey mate thanks for the reply ;-) The bikes done 21k, no I haven't changed fuel filter and no I didn't have the throttle open when doing comp test.

Hey thanks retroman, I wasn't aware of this. I did find some posts on faulty crank position sensors. I removed mine and it was as clean, I have also checked all earth leads. Now if it was the coil it would happen all the time right? I'm in Victoria, Wimmera region.

IAC pintle , that's the motherfucker..

Seat off , tank loosened and jacked up at the rear with clean cloths or similar , work around the top rubber engine mount to get the Bassa out.

Spray with carby cleaner or similar , wee lube of 3:1 oil or similar and back in.

I had to replace mine eventually , and only 12,000 K's covered at the time , 6 years old.

My money's still on that IAC Pintle fucker , MUCH easier to do than the fuel filter I may say !

The yanks bang on about "Seafoam" but I just used carby cleaner from Supercheap

Hey thanks for the help, I will set to do compression with throttle open this time. Look at the IAC Pintle , then if no good I will change the fuel filter. I guess its a process of elimination. I believe the bike had been sitting around for sometime. I had a fair bit of slack in the throttle, I would twist open about quarter of the way before response. I have the Clymer Manual which has been friggin amazing. 

Now to do comp, IAC, fuel filter, I'll post progress but don't hold your breath I will get back soon. 

Cheers Hilly

Bassa=Bastardo=Bastard etc etc

The symptoms on my 2006 Dyna , a very clean low K's bike I had had from new ( a 2006 35th Anniversary Dynaglide ) were similar to yours , plus it would occasionally remain on high idle at most inopportune moments , like going into roundabouts and junctions.

Jerky throttle resonse at times as well

If you take off the airfilter football cover , and the K@N element or whatever is there , you can see a wee hole in the upper side of the inside of the throat into the throttle body.

Try squirting carby cleaner using the thin nylon nozzle up into that hole with a clean absorbent rag in there too , to catch any excess spray , and keep it off your tank etc and out of your eyes. Worth a try and saves more stripdown if it works for you. I followed up with CRC or WD40 applied the same way up the hole.

Bike ran well enough for quite a few K's , then I sold it to a dude 80 K's south of me , and the symptoms re-occured for him. I had a new IAC pintle on order so when it arrived I went down to his house and fitted the new part for him. He had no further trouble after that.

I have had several other EFI Harleys since then , and no bother with any of them. Maybe it's "2006" thing ?

Retroman I ended going all the way here to examine the IAC module, I love knowing how things work. started out by disconnecting the negative on battery, I removed rear tank bolt and loosened the front one, pulled the rear of the tank up and stuck in a bit of 4x2. I undid the engine stabiliser off from centre of frame location, this made it easier to get a quarter inch drive with a T27Hex behind the IAC. **WARNING** I have read that some have striped the ICA bolts, I can see how this could be done***  I removed the throttle cables for a little more room. Once removed I held the unit with spring facing down and sprayed WD40 on the spring soaking it letting it drip out. I used steel wool fine grade to ever so slightly clean muck around seat location. I used a clean rag and ran it through the jet hole on the housing to remove any gunk. I undid the throttle housing and squirted Graphite Powder down where the cables go into their housing. Once cleaned and installed I then started engine and squirted Carb Cleaner x 6 times down the carbi throat and into the IAC hole. It let it sit for a few mins then repeated the process.

I haven't had the chance to ride yet but I do notice the throttle seem smoother from the graphite. It snaps back better its a fine line to get throttle adjustment just right. With the help of you guys and the Clymer Workshop Manial I'm bound to get this issue resolved. I will update over the couple of days. Cheers, Bowzer

 

Shit ,,,, I thought the story was going to end with a big finish ,, like ,, fuck me,, she's purring like a kitten , and never gone as good !!!!!

Anyway ,,, keep us informed ,, and I hope it ends up like I wrote above .....

Oh s#*t yeah, it is a bit of an anticlimax. Good weather our way, can't wait to take the haggis out. I will definitely post because it's anoying when there is no answers only thousands of suggestions. 

Hopefully not much more left to test. I brought the bike with 13,500k, took the stock exhaust off and fitted V&H FP with Big Rad exhaust, opened up the air box. It started playing up at around 20k so that's when I took off the addons to isolate the unbroken brumby feel.

I might have to invest in a fuel calibrarion unit that doesn't have so many secrets. $300.00 buck for what? Pray this latest procedure works because I neeeeeerd, waaaaant to go on some long rides with the missus if you know what I mean ;-)

Hey guys well I finally took the bike out today. First ride was out on the hwy, I let the bike warm up for a minute. Pretty good through the gears, throttle response smooth. Out on the hwy, good cruising, didn't hesitate sat well on 110kms, could this be it, I can finally ride for more than half hour. Came home and went out up the street about 10 minutes later, well the bike ran like s#%t again. Im most appreciative of all your comments. Right now I dont have the bills for the HD Dealer to have a look.

I might be pushing our friendship here but is there anything else that could cause this erratic response? Cheers - Bowzer

I can understand your frustration Bowzer but there are many possible causes. it sounds like it only happens when its hot? try doing a few 15 minute trips about an hour apart tomorrow and get back to us.

As I've mentioned i had to eventually replace the IAC pintle.

From memory it was not an expensive part , but it had to be "ORDERED FROM MELBOURNE" by Frasers Perth.

The fact that the bike ran well after cleaning and oiling the pintle for a while then shit again sounds like my scenario

A couple of other things for you to ckeck out would be a falty temp sensor,
also a leaking intake seal where it connects to the heads could cause those issues.


Waz...

As previously mentioned a dirty fuel filter and or fuel petcock strainer can cause dramas similar. Check this and see...............

How does /did the original unit go U/S ?

Can't answer that one sorry , I just know on my 2006 Dyna it did , and was a "recognisable fault" from the symptoms at the time

I gave the original IAC pintle a real good clean and look over , and it did run well for a few K's.

It played up right away on the way home for the guy I sold it to , so 3 days later I went 80 K's down to his place and put a newie in

Problem Solvered as they say !. I bumped into the dude 7 months later and the bike was still running well...

Could it be the crank sensor , maybe , but my only personal experience of faulty crank position sensors was on the Missus' 2002 Suzuki Liana car. It ran fine until freeway cruising then it just shut down/off , would coast to a halt then would restart with no apparent trouble ?

Good idea to check all other suggestions , especially those where there is no or minimal cost.

The Dealer Digitech may shed some light , and would for sure on the Crank position sensor

Also a good time to check the ignition switch. Is it a tank mount on your model ? They can corrode up unseen inside giving all sorta "no go" problems but they are quite clean outable and re-lubable. I've had to do that on several Harleys since 1995 when I got into them. NO COST THERE , just time and WD40

Hey thanks heaps for your thoughts. My ignition is down on the RHS of stem. I will check it out though and some of the other options here - cheers.
I read an interesting article on injectors (posted here https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/downloads/hdinjectorswap.pdf On the 20th February, 2006 HD sent out a Service Bulletin stating that there were issues with the 8 degree injectors and that if proven to be the cause of the issue that they are to be replaced with the injectors used on the CVO 103 cu in. I checked the part number for my injectors and they are the old 8's. So I called my harley dealer and got to talk to the Mec. I told him of my issues, sparatic idle, hesitating on cruise and also of the injector recal, 9 bloody years ago hey, and that I litterally canot ride for more 30 mins. He said it's hard to tell, it sounds like more than the injectors to me, anyway I've booked it in for a service $230.
Again thanks heaps for direction people. I'll update how I go ;-) cheers bowser

Ignore 

Yes I had come across that "Injector recall" way back at the time I was having problems

8 degree were swapped to 25 degree , (all bikes had the 25 degree from roughly January 2006 build to the present day).

Mine had the 8 degree , but they were ok. I never heard of any Australian bikes having the injector problem.

The dealer digitech should get to the bottom of your problem for $230 haha..

Sudden thought , is your bike an "Aussie from new" or is it a US import ?

It does make a difference , US domestic spec 2006 Dynas did have O2 sensors in the downpipes and "Aussie" 2006 Dynas did not. Quite different responses to Power commanders / Fuelpaks and the like as a result.

 

 

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