Hey Squid, does the Daymaker require any special wiring or is it a straight swap out for the standard sealed beam? I can grab one cheap, and anything would have to be brighter than the candle light thrown out by the stocker.

Mate, it's the four bulbs from memory. An easy fit by the sounds. Anything that helps the cages notice you is good insurance in my opinion. Who is this other wanker?

Totally agree mate. Just some keyboard warrior that thinks he knows better then anyone

You want to tell someone who cares, Softail?

Squid ive been following your build from day one and this would have to be one of the better builds ive seen in a very long time
the Info you have posted is First class as is the bike
well done on a Brilliant build

 

Been a little busy on another bike lately. But I got the 110 cube kit in.

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Motors altogether again. The shifter setup is all powder coated gloss black now so the LED display in the grip becomes unnoticeable when off. Modified the seat pan some more so it sits lower into the bike, no more seat springs. They were stiff as shit, I didn't see the point in them. Cut out some excess metal from the I side of the bars as I wasn't happy with how tight the internal throttle and brake line was around the bends.

Been playing around with Aeroflow fittings and braided line. Think I'm going to ditch the goodridge snipper 2 lines and fittings. I modified a few things so I can use the Aeroflow fittings on the fuel line and oil lines.

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Finally, the right hand made invader wherl turned up with the brake mount for my 320mm ceramic rotor. I'm in love

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That's going to have some nice stopping force with that ceramic rotor ... does the research say they are good from the get go or do they need to be heated up before you get optimum performance .

Getting closer now hey Squid ... reckon you will be on the road by Xmas .

Tim

From everything I could find on them, which were reviews from a few bagger guys, they couldn't fault them. I can't find any bad reviews on them, but nothing that really on the topic about if they perform better once heated up or not. I guess I'll soon find out. They are a floating rotor, different design to most, so I'm thinking with the Lyndalls racing gold pads between the pm 6 piston caliper, and lightweight softail, even if they needed a bit of heat to perform at their optimum, I think even at their minimum performance on what I have here will be excessive, so I should be right.

It looks close but man I just keep creating more and more work. I need to stop changing my mind on this project. It's all for the better, but I need to draw a line and leave it at that

Need to get the right length black steel bolts, and wheel spacers made up. But oh man does this front setup look tough as nails. Probably a bit overkill, but I'm lovin it

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I think you are spot on about the brakes ... when I thought about it again I think I was remembering something about Racing bikes that have different rotors for the wet and so on

It sure is a clean and tidy set up ... much like the rest of the build ... as an admirer of your build can I be greedy and ask for a complete side profile pic of the nearly finished beast , Lol .

Tim

Sure Tim thats no problem mate. I've just got the street bob I'm working on alongside it at the moment so i can't really get a side on pic, but hopefully I'll have that one finished by the weekend, so as soon as I free the space up I'll get a side profile pic up for you

The old phone camera doesn't zoom out enough this close lol.

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Thanks for that Squid ... going to be very cool ride when finished ... you may have wrote about it already but are you running a front guard ... and with the decompression buttons in the heads , does one have to use them on every start up or only on cold start ups ... I have a set of those S&S easy start cams with mine ... running 10.5 to 1 compression ... so far no dramas .. { touch wood }.

Tim

Cheers Tim! Usually hot starts caused the most problems with compression. When I had 10.5:1 it started ok, but then the open belt made it that much harder ended up chewing a starter after some time. Though now 11:1 with 4" Pistons (110), I installed a starter with more kick and a battery with more crank. I think it'll still kick over on its own, but the manual releases will help the starter motor and battey life significantly though, that's the main reason for them

Well I've been hooking into the train again this last week, front wheel spacers are finally spot on and it's all locked in. Made up some hard mount seat mounts to have the seat pan as low as possible now, tossed the springs. Had to modify the seat some more for this. 

I've opened up the brake line hole in the bars to accomodate the new proper pro race fittings for the brake lines. (Ditched the Goodridge sniper lines I had fitted).

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 Oil lines took some custom work to get the race lines and fitting to work. Done the fuel line in the same gear too. 

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Not finished the ecm bracket yet but here's where I'm at today

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The tank mounts are now orange again. Ok no more painting the ****in tank lol

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Oh this happened, I'm going to have two tanks that I can change over in 5 minutes depending on my mood for the day. This will be the tank but different mounts and some cool custim paint. 

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fuckin lookin good Squid

Love ya work Squid

As much as I know all great works of art take time, I can't wait for the finished product on this one Squid. That black version looks absolutely sinister- love It!! Still love watching the progress, the anodised race fittings fit the whole scheme as well. Keep 'em coming , mate. cheers, Winger.

Gotta hand it to you Squid. Nice work with those lines and bars. I'm with the other guys here, can't wait to see it done.
Cheers. Bucky

Cheers tat2 winger and bucky! Hopefully by the end of January it'll be ready to kick over. Just finished up moving, now to spend some time with the family then back into this one January.

Got a 3 bay shed and an upper level parts storage now to work with, will start setting this place up

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