im going to pull the top end down on my Evo softail as I've got a leaking valve steam seal. I've read that it's best to put 30" thick head gaskets back in and 10" base gaskets can someone tell me if this is right and has anyone done this before and what's the best brand of gaskets to use. I got new rings to put in when I remove the bores a light hone should do as its only got 18,000kms on it. Any help is great.

 

Hey Wazza-hg, I used a James gasket kit for my rebuild, what caught me out where the o-rings on the original parts diagram, the James head gaskit I used didn't require the o-rings! On the topic of rings I also checked and set my ring gaps! It's very important to set them right
Cheers Corey

A squish test is required first to see what will be needed to achieve a squish clearance of .040" , in an evo the clearances can vary greatly , test first and adjust if possible with gasket thicknesses last and if you cannot achieve .040" with gaskets cylinder base machining will be required .Cometic MLS .

James make the best EVO style gaskets  MLS head + steel backing  coated base & rocker's etc

thanks for the replies looks like I might be up for a top end rebuild as I rode today and when I got home its ticking bad in the head somewhere.time for that strip down I think worst thing is that its finally good riding weather guess ill just have to wait till I get the cash and time to do the work. the biggest thing will be finding a machine shop to hone the bores for me.

James or Cometic. both are proven in the field

replace da inner cam bearing & lifters by da sound of it

I replaced the bearing with Torrington when I put the ev27 in. And checked the liftrrs and they where smooth and no side play.

I have a new set of liftrrs and gasket here The shelf but can I replace the lidters with out the alignment tool or can I make one out of something. Has anyone made they own before?

its a bit hard without the tool i have done it heeps years ago ,

You can buy them online for about $20 delivered might be worth trying one of the aussie suppliers if you don't want to wait.

Ok I'll call in to the local tomorrow and see if he has some. I've got the cam chest cover off right now but I can't get a 12point 1/4 socket anywhere here in North brisbane I had one set aside from a shop this morning and guess what happened yep they sold it before I finished work. What's the best socket to use 1/4 tube or short. And what drive 1/4 or 3/& as it looks like there's fuck all room to get in there.

Thanks heaps I'll let you know how I go at getting them today. And if I can't get hold of them I'll take you up on your offer and send a them back with some cash for a carton of beer for your help.

Ok I got hold of the socket and the tool replaced the lifters and and cam bearing and still have the tick. I adjusted the push rods 80tho from the bottom and still have the ticking any ideas what I should check next. I'm going to re ring it as it's got oil on top of the piston in rear cylinder and I might as well do the valve see while I'm at it but I can work out the ticking.
I'm abit off topic here since I started with what gaskets to use. But I guess this is what owning an old Evo is about. Learning as I go. Easy motor to work is an up side.

Quite a common noise mistaken for for noisy tappets an exhaust leak.
You could try running it with the rocker tops removed and make sure the oil is flowing properly .
Check the filter screen isn't blocked.
That's about all i could think of so early in the morning.

I would hate to throw a spanner in the works but my tick ended up being my front con-rod, the crank pin wore out, didn't lose power and rode 1800kms before I rip my motor down, the upside was to fully re-build and paint it set me back around $900!

I hope it's not the bottom end. I'll find out how much play the rods have when I pull the top end off. I'm re ringing it as I'm thinking 18,000kms in 23yrs how long has it sat not started and has it been store right. The rockers looked great when I did the cam 1,200km ago. I found the instructions for the push rods and it's 3turns from seated the quieted it down abit.

If you do pull it down and barrels are off, there should be no up and down movement off the crank-pin, there is a little movement side to side but no up and down! The cause to mine was low oil! I've checked oil regularly in all my bikes/cars but this times caught me out, I had a seeping base gaskit and rings where worn, my 91 EVO has over 100,000 on the clock!

On saying all that my front exhaust push-rod required adjustment many moons ago, that made a tick and it was caused by a cold take off, had a few beers didn't let the bike warm up, gave it a gut full when cold and presto! A tick developed, so re-adjusted/checked push-rods problem fixed!

 

Thanks again koala if your info. Where are you from mate I'm in North brissy.

Ok here's an up date. I pulled the top end off and the rear inlet valve out and Im up for a valve grind two marks on the seat. It's still got good hone marks on the bores so just a quick ho e should do for the new rings question is can I buy a stone hone or do I need to get it done by a pro. And one more question is the stock Pistons flat tops as that's what's in there. Koala77 your from tassie good to here what my old man has told me it's good riding down there he went down to tassie in the late 90's on his dyna and stayed longer as he said the roads where great with all the corners.